Novel cosmetic delivery systems: an application update

World consumers are nowadays more focused on their health and appearance. This trend is creating heightened demand for products formulated with natural and nutraceutical ingredients. Functional ingredients and innovative delivery systems are driving the new product development in the field of cosmetics. A significant number of innovative formulations are now being used in personal care with real consumer-perceivable benefits and optimized sensory attributes, resulting in an economic uplift of cosmetic industry. In fact, the U.S. market alone for novel cosmetic delivery systems has been projected to be more than $41 billion for the year 2007. Novel cosmetic delivery systems reviewed here possess enormous potential as next-generation smarter carrier systems.     

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.     

A cell suspension agar diffusion test using Neutral Red release to assess the relative irritancy potential of cosmetic ingredients and formulations

An established cytotoxicity test for plastic materials in medical devices has been adapted and used to assess the relative potential irritancy of cosmetic ingredients and formulations during product development. Serum-free medium containing a novel protein supplement supported growth in suspension of LS mouse fibroblast cells. Release of the vital dye Neutral Red from pre-loaded cells suspended in agar was the endpoint. Test substances and reference standards were applied to a central well cut into the agar, a sensitive method which allowed accurate dose application and yielded consistent results. Relative irritancy potential was measured quantitatively by comparing the diameters of the clear zones of damaged cells which surround the central well. The test has been used with raw materials such as surfactants, preservatives and herbal extracts, as well as finished products ranging from shampoos and conditioners to creams, lotions and coloured cosmetics. The method is practical, versatile, reproducible and economic to use.     

In vitro induction of apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity by cosmetic preservatives: application of flow cytometry as a complementary analysis by NRU

Preservatives are used in cosmetics to prevent microbial contamination; however, some preservatives are not free of allergenic and cytotoxic potential. Allergenicity and cytotoxicity potential values are major aspects of preservative safety, which determine limitations and maximum concentration dose in a cosmetic product. The purpose of this study was to investigate and compare the in vitro apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity-inducing potential of five different types of preservatives: Phenoxyethanol (PE), Propylparaben (PP), Methylparaben (MP), Benzyl Alcohol (BA) and Ethylhexyl Glycerine (EG). In vitro experiments were carried out on human dermal fibroblasts by a quantitative flow cytometry method, using specific cell markers (Annexin V, Propidium Iodide and H2AX). We compared the resulting cell viability by means of neutral red uptake (NRU) and established the IC(50) . Our results showed that PE, PP, MP and BA have similar cytotoxic mechanisms (high apoptosis and necrosis levels only at the test concentration of 1%), whereas EG showed only an apoptosis pathway. For genotoxicity, both parabens yielded the highest values. Results obtained by flow cytometry for necrosis were comparable to those produced by NRU; however, NRU does not distinguish apoptosis from necrosis. We propose that flow cytometry is a more sophisticated methodology for understanding the cytotoxic mechanisms of cosmetic preservatives and can be used to complement the NRU.     

Novel approaches for chemical and microbiological shelf life extension of cereal crops

Abstract

Economic losses due to post-harvest fungal spoilage and mycotoxin contamination of cereal crops is a frequently encountered issue. Typically, chemical preservatives are used to reduce the initial microbial load and the environmental conditions during storage are controlled to prevent microbial growth. However, in recent years the consumers’ desire for more naturally produced foods containing less chemical preservatives has grown increasingly stronger. This article reviews the latest advances in terms of novel approaches for chemical decontamination, namely application cold atmospheric pressure plasma and electrolyzed water, and their suitability for preservation of stored cereal crops. In addition, the alternative use of bio-preservatives, such as starter cultures or purified antimicrobial compounds, to prevent the growth of spoilage organisms or remove in-field accumulated mycotoxins is evaluated. All treatments assessed here show potential for inhibition of microbial spoilage. However, each method encounters draw-backs, making industrial application difficult. Even under optimized processing conditions, it is unlikely that one single treatment can reduce the natural microbial load sufficiently. It is evident that future research needs to examine the combined application of several treatments to exploit their synergistic properties. This would enable sufficient reduction in the microbial load and ensure microbiological safety of cereal crops during long-term storage.     

Natural antimicrobial/antioxidant agents in meat and poultry products as well as fruits and vegetables: A review

Synthetic preservatives are widely used by the food industry to control the growth of spoilage and pathogenic microorganisms and to inhibit the process of lipid oxidation extending the shelf-life, quality and safety of food products. However, consumer's preference for natural food additives and concern regarding the safety of synthetic preservatives prompted the food industry to look for natural alternatives. Natural antimicrobials, including plant extracts and their essential oils, enzymes, peptides, bacteriocins, bacteriophages, and fermented ingredients have all been shown to have the potential for use as alternatives to chemical antimicrobials. Some spices, herbs and other plant extracts were also reported to be strong antioxidants. The antimicrobial/antioxidant activities of some plant extracts and/or their essential oils are mainly due to the presence of some major bioactive compounds, including phenolic acids, terpenes, aldehydes, and flavonoids. The proposed mechanisms of action of these natural preservatives are reported. An overview of the research done on the direct incorporation of natural preservatives agents into meat and poultry products as well as fruit and vegetables to extend their shelf-life is presented. The development of edible packaging materials containing natural preservatives is growing and their applications in selected food products are also presented in this review.     

Future developments in cosmetic formulations

In recent years, there have been a great deal of interest in applications of microemulsions, liposomes (vesicles) and multiple emulsions in cosmetic formulations. These systems will provide the cosmetic industry with new types of formulations which are easier to apply, better functional benefit and potentially safer formulations. Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable systems and hence shelf life is no problem. Many cosmetic ingredients can be adequately solubilized in the swollen micelles of the microemulsions. Such solubilized systems may enhance transport and diffusion through various barriers, eg., the skin, thus enhancing the efficacy of the formulations. However, microemulsions may cause skin irritation by disrupting the liquid crystalline structure of the stratum corneum. This problem may be overcome by formulating microemulsions, which on evaporation produce lamellar liquid crystalline structures. The problem of skin irritation is certainly reduced or eliminated using liposomes or vesicles, which offer an alternative to microemulsions. The principles for formation and stabilization of vesicles are discussed in this paper and research work is needed to produce nanocapsules from liposomes, using polymerizable surfactants. Multiple emulsions of the water/oil/water (w/o/w) or oil/water/oil (o/w/o) types are also valuable systems for formulating cosmetics. In the first place, they offer a means of sustained release of the various ingredients. Secondly, they allow one to separate the various ingredients in the formulation, thus preventing their possible interaction. The basic principles required for preparation of stable multiple emulsions are summarised. Developments of polymeric surfactants led to the formulation of stable multiple emulsions. An example of a recently formulated stable w/o/w multiple emulsion is given in this paper The stability of the system was investigated using optical microscopy. Creaming occurred on storage, particularly at high temperature (40°C) and this was significantly reduced by addition of Kelzan (a polysaccharide with high molecular weight). The final formulation was studied rheological techniques.     

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p‐methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti‐ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4‐hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin‐conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.     

Preservative systems containing essential oils in cosmetic products

The aim of this study was to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of selected essential oils ( Laurus nobilis , Eucalyptus globulus and Salvia officinalis ), both alone and in combination, in cosmetic preparations characterized by an increasing risk of microbial contamination, i.e. an O/W skin cream, a hydrogel and a non-alcoholic hydrolyte. Their potential synergistic effect in combination with the usual cosmetic preservatives at low concentrations (up to 200-fold less than usual) was also investigated.     

The function of polyglyceryl erucate/isostearate/ricinoleate

Today, it is said that the formula design of cosmetics from ingredients of plant origin is an indispensable way and trend. From this consideration, cosmetic materials made from animal and synthetic petroleum ingredients are becoming less usable. Instead, cosmetic materials are designed from ingredients of plant origin and many and various botanical ingredients are being developed. Lanolin, which is one of the animal-based ingredients, is said to have ideal functions as a cosmetic oil, and it has been used in many fields such as make-up cosmetics as well as hair and skin care products for a long time. However, unfortunately, lanolin is an animal-based ingredient; therefore, the development of a botanical ingredient to replace lanolin was desired. Polyglyceryl-8 decaerucate/isostearate/ricinoleate, which we have developed, is an ester oil originating from plants and has an equivalent or higher function than lanolin. We have confirmed that our developed ester oil has various excellent characteristics such as a water-holding capability 2.5 times higher than that of lanolin, high air permeability, moisture keeping in dermal layers, protection of hair from changes in external environmental humidity, and excellent gloss and excellent dispersability of pigments. Thus, this newly developed ester oil is expected to be a promising new botanical cosmetic ingredient which can be applied in various fields.     

A novel volumetric method for quantitation of titanium dioxide in cosmetics

Nowadays there are many sun‐protection cosmetics incorporating organic or inorganic UV filters as active ingredients. Chemically stable inorganic sunscreen agents, usually metal oxides, are widely employed in high‐SPF (sun protection factor) products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as a pigment for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it has become possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without the previous whitening effect, and hence its use in cosmetics has become an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitation of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analysed the amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redox titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III), and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to Ti(III) by adding metallic aluminum. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator. In order to test the accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analysed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, namely cream, make‐up base, foundation, and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide (1 ~ 25 w/w%). The percentages of titanium dioxide recovered in the four types of formulations were in the range between 96% and 105%. We also analysed seven commercial cosmetic products labelled with titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those obtained from ICP‐AES (inductively coupled plasma‐atomic emission spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well in accord with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP‐AES. Although instrument‐based analytical methods, namely ICP‐MS (inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry) and ICP‐AES, are best for the analysis of titanium, it is difficult for small cosmetic companies to install such instruments because of their high cost. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gives quantitatively accurate and reliable results with routine lab‐ware and chemicals.     

Plant extracts for the control of bacterial growth: efficacy, stability and safety issues for food application

The microbial safety of foods continues to be a major concern to consumers, regulatory agencies and food industries throughout the world. Many food preservation strategies have been used traditionally for the control of microbial spoilage in foods but the contamination of food and spoilage by microorganisms is a problem yet to be controlled adequately. Although synthetic antimicrobials are approved in many countries, the recent trend has been for use of natural preservatives, which necessitates the exploration of alternative sources of safe, effective and acceptable natural preservatives. Plants contain innumerable constituents and are valuable sources of new and biologically active molecules possessing antimicrobial properties. Plants extracts either as standardized extracts or as a source of pure compounds provide unlimited opportunities for control of microbial growth owing to their chemical diversity. Many plant extracts possess antimicrobial activity against a range of bacteria, yeast and molds, but the variations in quality and quantity of their bioactive constituents is the major detriments in their food use. Further, phytochemicals added to foods may be lost by various processing techniques. Several plant extracts or purified compounds intended for food use have been consumed by humans for thousands of years, but typical toxicological information is not available for them. Although international guidelines exist for the safety evaluation of food additives, owing to problems in standardization of plant extracts, typical toxicological values have not been assigned to them. Development of cost effective isolation procedures that yield standardized extracts as well as safety and toxicology evaluation of these antimicrobials requires a deeper investigation.     

Low-level efficacy of cosmetic preservatives

Preservation using combinations of preservatives has several advantages. This study shows that the concentration of some of the most frequently used allergenic preservatives can be markedly lowered when they are combined with phenoxyethanol. The antimicrobial efficacy of cosmetic preservatives and known allergens of various potency [diazolidinyl urea, methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI), methylisothiazolinone (MI) and phenoxyethanol] was tested alone and in various combinations of two or three preservatives together. The preservatives were tested for minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values and possible synergy using fractional inhibitory concentration. MCI/MI was the only preservative showing low‐level MIC against all four tested microorganisms: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger. Different combinations of the preservatives indicated additive effects against the microorganisms. No combination of preservatives showed any inhibitory action on each other. Challenge tests with different concentrations and combinations were performed in a cosmetic cream. Diazolidinyl urea and MCI/MI alone were ineffective against C. albicans in a challenge test at concentrations up to 16 times higher than the observed MIC values. When combining phenoxyethanol with either one of the allergenic preservatives diazolidinyl urea, MCI/MI or MI, the cosmetic cream was adequately preserved at concentrations well below the preservatives’ MIC values as well as 10–20 times below the maximum permitted concentrations. By using combinations of preservatives, effective preservation can be achieved with lower concentrations of allergenic preservatives.     

Recent Advances in Research on Polyphenols: Effects on Microbiota,Metabolism, and Health

Polyphenols have attracted huge interest among researchers of various disciplines because of their numerous biological activities, such as antioxidative, antiinflammatory, antiapoptotic, cancer chemopreventive, anticarcinogenic, and antimicrobial properties, and their promising applications in many fields, mainly in the medical, cosmetics, dietary supplement and food industries. In this review, the latest scientific findings in the research on polyphenols interaction with the microbiome and mitochondria, their metabolism and health beneficial effects, their involvement in cognitive diseases and obesity development, as well as some innovations in their analysis, extraction methods, development of cosmetic formulations and functional food are summarized based on the papers presented at the 13th World Congress on Polyphenol Applications. Future implications of polyphenols in disease prevention and their strategic use as prophylactic measures are specifically addressed. Polyphenols may play a key role in our tomorrow´s food and nutrition to prevent many diseases.     

一种新型食品防腐剂-L-月桂酰胺精氨酸盐酸盐乙醇酯

阐述了L-月桂酰胺精氨酸盐酸盐乙醇酯的物化性质、抑菌活性、抑菌机理、安全性以及在食品和化妆品等领域的应用,为我国研究和开发新型、安全、高效的食品防腐剂提供参考.     

植物发酵活性物在美妆中应用研究进展

植物尤其是药用植物蕴涵着极其多样化的活性物质如多糖、多肽、黄酮、多酚、氨基酸等,其储存的含碳物占生物体含碳物的80%,在化妆品中具有广阔应用前景。但天然植物原材料中有效成分相对较低、传统提取不充分,甚至会有一些毒副作用成分,影响了其在化妆品原料中的应用。利用微生物发酵植物原料或提取物可以解决这些问题,可以促进活性物释放、富集或转化生成新的活性物、增强并拓展功效、降低毒副作用。植物发酵活性物具有抗菌、美白、抗氧化、抗炎、促进胶原再生等多重功效,在美妆产品中具有广阔应用前景。     

抗氧化天然植物提取物及其在肉品中的应用研究进展

在各类肉品的生产和加工过程中,食品防腐添加剂对于保持产品营养特性和安全性必不可少。然而,人们期待肉品中所添加的成分尽可能源自天然产物,因此寻找可替代食品防腐抗氧化添加剂功能的天然提取物越来越受到关注。现有研究的抗氧化天然提取物来源于蔬菜、水果、香辛料、草本和种子等,主要作用是抑制脂质氧化、酸败,也可在一定程度上抑制微生物生长,应用于各类肉制品中,以有效延长其保质期,甚至还具有其他的功能特性。本文对抗氧化天然提取物的来源、萃取、氧化反应、功能性表现,特别是在各类肉品中的应用进行综述,以期为健康、安全、具有较长保质期和稳定货架期肉品的加工提供借鉴。     

Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activities of (‐)‐Epigallocatechin‐3‐gallate (EGCG) and its Potential to Preserve the Quality and Safety of Foods

Quality deterioration of fresh or processed foods is a major challenge for the food industry not only due to economic losses but also due to the risks associated with spoiled foods resulting, for example, from toxic compounds. On the other hand, there are increasing limitations on the application of synthetic preservatives such as antioxidants in foods because of their potential links to human health risks. With the new concept of functional ingredients and the development of the functional foods market, and the desire for a “clean” label, recent research has focused on finding safe additives with multifunctional effects to ensure food safety and quality. (‐)‐Epigallocatechin‐3‐gallate (EGCG), a biologically active compound in green tea, has received considerable attention in recent years and is considered a potential alternative to synthetic food additives. EGCG has been shown to prevent the growth of different Gram‐positive and Gram‐negative bacteria responsible for food spoilage while showing antioxidant activity in food systems. This review focuses on recent findings related to EGCG separation techniques, modification of its structure, mechanisms of antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, and applications in preserving the quality and safety of foods.     

Diffusion of citric and ascorbic acids in pre-peeled potatoes and their influence on microbial growth during refrigerated storage

The most common chemical preservatives used to inhibit both enzymatic browning and microbial growth in pre-peeled potatoes are sodium sulphite and bisulphite. Since 1987 the FDA has limited their use as food ingredients; consequently, during recent years the tendency to replace sulphites by GRAS chemical additives such as citric and ascorbic acids has become stronger. In the present work, surface colour variations, exudate production and microbial growth were analysed on pre-peeled potatoes treated with citric and ascorbic acids. These preservatives were applied individually and as mixtures; shelf-life was extended and microbiologically safe products were obtained. Mathematical models were solved to analyse the diffusion of these acids during immersion and storage periods in order to determine the concentration profiles within the product and to predict the surface concentration to which the microorganisms are exposed.     

发用类、肤用清洁类化妆品的急性皮肤和眼刺激损害特点

分析发用类、肤用清洁类化妆品的急性皮肤刺激和急性眼刺激损害特点,了解其卫生安全状况。于2012年采用《化妆品卫生规范》(2007年版)中的急性皮肤刺激性实验和急性眼刺激性实验对发用类、肤用清洁类共计158种化妆品样品进行测试。两类受试化妆品显示出不同程度的急性皮肤刺激性和急性眼刺激性损害效应。发用类化妆品在实验中基本无皮肤刺激性损伤;肤用清洁类化妆品在实验中有少量的皮肤刺激性损伤,但大都为轻刺激性(31.0%),只有个别(3.8%)出现了皮肤红斑水肿的中刺激性损伤。发用类、肤用清洁类化妆品在急性眼刺激性实验中检出一定比例具有微刺激性及以上刺激性的样品,但引起的眼损伤都能够在观察期限内恢复。本次调查的所有化妆品中,洁面类、洗发类化妆品普遍具有急性眼刺激性和急性皮肤刺激性损害,需加强对化妆品的监督管理,进一步提升化妆品卫生安全水平,保障化妆品使用安全。