服装形变对羽绒服隔热能力的影响

为探究服装形变对羽绒服隔热能力的影响规律,采用系带收紧法设计了羽绒服的形变方式和形变水平,并制作了4件充绒量分别为110、135、150、180 g/m²的样衣,分别对应薄型、普通型、中厚型和厚型羽绒服;然后利用暖体假人测试服装热阻,同时获取样衣在不同形变水平下的局部体积(包括羽绒服本身和衣下空间),分析了服装形变对羽绒服总热阻和局部热阻的影响规律。结果表明：羽绒服形变会改变其内部空气的流动状态,对隔热能力产生规律性影响,并因充绒量的不同而存在差异,但存在一个适宜的形变程度使羽绒服的保暖性最优;服装局部隔热能力大小、受形变影响的变化幅度及规律性与人体体表曲线的凹凸程度和是否靠近服装边缘开口处均相关。     

衣下空间与服装穿着舒适性关系研究

为揭示衣下空间对服装穿着舒适性的影响,阐明衣下空间与穿着舒适性的关系,在介绍衣下空间定义与测量方法的基础上,通过分析和总结国内外相关研究,论述了不同状态的衣下空间对服装接触舒适性、压力舒适性、热湿舒适性的影响,并重点论述了衣下空间与服装热湿舒适性的关系。结果表明,衣下空间对服装热湿舒适性影响最为明显。最后对衣下空间与服装舒适性关系研究提出展望,认为应区分衣下空间与服装松量二者概念,并着重研究衣下空间热湿传递机理,以探究衣下空间最优分布规律。     

蒙古袍与风衣3D衣下空间性状可视化对比分析

为了揭示高原寒冷地区典型民族服饰3D衣下空间结构性状及其与日常服装的差异性，选取相同面料制作传统款式的蒙古袍与风衣，借助三维扫描仪获取人体穿着基础服装、穿着基础服装和蒙古袍、穿着基础服装和风衣3种情况下的三维点云数据。将数据导入逆向工程软件中进行相关可视化处理，分别获得人体穿着蒙古袍和风衣时的衣下空间结构。可视化对比分析蒙古袍和风衣在人体2D截面形态、3D整体衣下空间形态、3D局部衣下空间量等3个方面的差异，为蒙古袍的人体工学和热舒适研究提供理论基础，也为后续其他民族服饰的三维衣下空间可视化研究方法提供参考。     

中国20个少数民族男性服装整体和局部热阻的研究北大核心CSCD

服装热阻是影响人体着装舒适性的主要物理指标之一。选取具有代表性的20种不同少数民族的男性传统服装,根据款式特点将其分成六组,采用暖体假人测试了服装的整体和局部静态热阻,分析各组内、组间服装局部热阻的差异和变化趋势,以及影响服装热阻的相关因素。研究结果表明:服装的局部热阻与人体部位体形、服装局部结构、人体穿着方式和服装的总重量有关。各少数民族服装的局部热阻分布不均匀,躯干后部位的服装热阻大于前部,腹部和下背处的服装热阻大于胸部和上背,盆骨处的服装热阻最大。     

衣下空气层对透气型防护服热阻和湿阻的影响

为确定适宜的服装宽松量,提升透气型核生化(NBC)防护服的热湿舒适性,设计了穿着实验。在温、湿度可控制的气候室内,借助出汗暖体假人和三维扫描技术,观察常温、静止状态下5套不同松量服装的热湿传递性能,探讨衣下空气层对NBC防护服热阻和湿阻的影响。研究结果表明:衣下空气层体积与平均厚度的增量变化相似,不同松量服装的衣下空气层对服装总热阻和总湿阻有显著影响;随着透气型NBC防护服松量的增大,服装总热阻随着衣下空气层的增加呈现先增后减的变化趋势,服装总湿阻随着衣下空气层的增加呈现逐渐增大的变化趋势。     

衣下间隙对织物系统热湿阻的影响

为研究人体皮肤与织物之间存在的衣下间隙对织物系统传热透湿性能的影响,利用出汗热平板仪测试织物系统的热阻和湿阻,并通过在热板与织物之间放置不同厚度的分隔板来模拟衣下间隙厚度,实现了定量测试皮肤—衣下间隙—织物之间的热湿传递。实验结果证明:织物系统的热阻和湿阻先随衣下间隙厚度的增大而增加,但在衣下间隙达到12 mm时出现下降,随后又进一步增加;虽然织物厚度影响着织物系统的热阻与湿阻,但衣下间隙对织物系统热湿阻的影响更为显著。综合服装的合体美观与舒适保暖性能,建议防寒类服装设计采用胸围放松量6~8 cm之间为宜。本研究有助于理解服装宽松量设计与服装隔热透湿性能之间的相互关系,对服装产品的舒适设计有指导意义。     

针织运动服的通风设计与热湿舒适性评价

为研究通风孔和通风道设计对人体运动热生理及主观舒适感的影响,采用针织挑洞工艺与凸条工艺设计了2款运动服,在人工气候舱中进行着装人体实验,评价所研发运动服对人体皮肤温度、衣下湿度、汗液蒸发率等客观生理指标,以及主观热感觉、湿感觉、黏体感、舒适感的影响。结果表明:具有通风孔设计的服装能显著增加人体汗液蒸发,降低衣下湿度,同时受试者的主观热、湿、黏体及不舒适感也显著下降;在通风孔基础上进一步增加通风道设计的服装,由于衣下空气层厚度的增大,使得服装的热阻也增加,未能起到进一步改善人体热生理及舒适感的作用;在运动服的设计中,应当在控制服装热阻的前提下尽量提高通风性能。     

充气防寒服的保暖性能

为维持户外活动人体热舒适性,研发一种保暖性能可调的防寒服装,以满足人体在不同活动量或环境温度变化情况下对服装保暖性能的需求,评价了一件充气服装的保暖性能,通过“Newton”出汗暖体假人实验测试了充气服装在4种充气量和3种风速下的上身总热阻和局部热阻。实验结果表明:充气状态下胸部、腹部和背部的局部热阻以及上身总热阻显著大于未充气状态,但是充气量之间没有明显差异;充气服装局部热阻和上身总热阻均随着风速的增加显著降低,不同充气量之间也没有显著差异。研究表明,充气服装在一定程度上可以作为一种有效的手段动态调节服装的保暖性。     

衣下空间体积与服装面料性能的关联性

为了掌握衣下空间体积的规律,本文通过在标准体型人台上依次穿着面料不同、款式相同的服装,运用[TC]2 NX-16非接触式三维扫描技术采集点云数据,经过计算机图形处理和对比,立体再现衣下空间的存在,得到衣下空间的整体立体体积,逐步回归得出影响衣下空间的主要面料性能项目,以及这些项目共同作用于衣下空间大小的表达式。衣下空间与服装面料的性能有紧密关联性。衣下空间的大小与硬挺度.抗弯长度、经纱密度呈显著正相关,与悬垂度.波峰夹角均匀度呈显著负相关。该结论对服装的设计制作,尤其是功能防护服装的面料设计,可以起到先期预测并控制的作用。     

服装款式特征对人体局部传热性能的影响

为研究不同服装款式的衣下间隙分布特征,及其对人体局部区段向外环境热量传递的影响,采用同种纺织面料设计制作了3 款号型相同但款式不同的实验衬衫（H 廓型、A 廓型、X 廓型）,应用红外热像仪对裸体与服装外表面温度分布进行无干扰高精度探测,并将人体划分为不同的部位区段,量化人体各区段的局部衣表温度与皮 肤温度的差值,以此表征服装的局部传热性能。结果表明：人体局部的体型特征与服装款式共同影响服装局部传热性能,一方面,服装局部传热性能存在区段间差异;另一方面,款式A 的隔热性能最优,且在腹部、腰部、下背、前臀、后臀部位,其衣表温差显著高于其他2 款服装,而在上胸、下胸及上背区域,由于人体骨骼肌肉的隆起,3款服装间的局部传热性能未发现显著性差异。     

The relationship between air gap sizes and clothing heat transfer performance

The objective of the study is to establish a quantitative relationship between air gap sizes and clothing thermal performance. Using a three-dimensional human body scanner, the thicknesses and volumes of air gaps of 35 experimental shirts were measured. Relationships between the thermal insulations of clothing, measured on a thermal manikin, and air gap volumes were examined by regression analysis. Also, the regression model between clothing surface temperatures, measured by an infrared thermal camera, and air gap thicknesses was established. The results proved that the thermal insulation of experimental shirts increased with air gap sizes but began to decrease as a result of natural convection when the air gap thickness was higher than 1?cm or the air gap volume was greater than 6000?cm³. The 3D human body scanner can accurately measure air gaps under clothing, but it is expensive and is not available everywhere. A substitute method is to build a mathematical model for predicting air gap sizes. In this paper, regression models were established to estimate volumes and thicknesses of air gaps when the ease allowances of chest circumference and fabric properties were known. This study can be used to predict the thermal performance of clothing at the product’s design stage.     

Correlation between clothing air gap space and fabric mechanical properties

To investigate the distribution of clothing air gap layers, clothes with the same pattern but different fabrics were put on a standard scan model. The [TC]² NX-16 three-dimensional (3D) body scanning technique was used to collect point cloud data and the overall 3D visualization model of clothing air gaps was represented in a novel way through computer graphics processing. The volumes of air gap space were calculated. The main fabric mechanical properties were investigated and the relationship among them was analyzed by stepwise regression. The results demonstrated a close relationship between clothing air gap space and fabric mechanical properties. The volumes of air gap space were significantly positively correlated with stiffness-bending length and warp density and significantly negatively correlated with drape-crest angle uniformity. The conclusion could play a role in predicting and controlling the clothing design process, especially the material design process of clothing.     

The laboratory investigation of the clothing microclimatic layers in accordance with the volume quantification and qualification

Some of the researches expressed connection between the numbers and size of the microclimatic air layers on thermal insulation of clothing. The insulation of the ensembles is much affected by the air enclosed between the clothing layers. In loose fitting clothing, they are less subjected to compression and thus add more to the overall thermal insulation. The heat and the moisture are released from the body into the microclimatic layers, subsequently changing properties of the entrapped air. The volume of the microclimatic air layers was investigated by the use of non-contact 3D CAD method. The temperature and humidity changes of microclimatic layers were also observed. This paper represents layer by layer quantification of the clothing ensemble volume with jackets as covering garment and the impact of the microclimatic volume on the clothing insulation. The three-level laboratory testing was performed with human subjects dressed in selected ensembles.     

消防服衣下空气层的作用与测定方法研究进展

为探究消防服衣下空气层对消防服热防护性能的影响,从衣下空气层的厚度与位置、影响因素以及测量方法 3个方面综述了消防服衣下空气层研究的发展过程及最新进展,分析了现有研究中存在的问题。研究表明:衣下空气层的厚度和位置影响衣下热传递机制,从而影响消防服的热防护性能;织物的硬挺度和悬垂性、服装的合体度以及人体动作影响消防服衣下空气层的分布;目前主要使用三维人体扫描技术获取燃烧假人裸体及着装状态下的三维图像,使用图像处理软件计算衣下空气层厚度。基于当前消防服衣下空气层的研究现状认为,未来研究需深入分析衣下空气层的作用机制,建立多层消防服衣下空气层的测量方法,提高衣下空气层的测量精度。     

服装动态热阻测定及预测模型的研究进展

为探究风和人体运动对服装动态热阻的影响,基于对人体和环境间热对流的分析,结合实际研究数据,阐明风和人体运动对服装动态热阻存在显著影响。总结了风和人体运动作用下动态热阻的测试方法。动态热阻变化规律的定性分析表明,动态热阻值在风和人体运动作用下呈现下降趋势,且二者对动态热阻的影响程度随着风速和步行速度的增加逐渐下降。分类对正常工作服、冬季防寒服和轻质服装动态热阻具体数值的预测研究进行了概括和总结。研究认为,服装动态热阻预测模型未来的研究重点是动态热阻修正公式的优化和局部动态热阻变化规律2方向。     

Application of shape memory materials in protective clothing: a review

The development of environmental responsive and self-adjustable structure is very important for improving protective performance of protective clothing, and thus decreases burn injury chance of firefighters and emergency rescuers. Shape memory material (SMM) can be incorporated into clothing system to provide necessary thermal protection when threaten occurs. It will produce stable air gap when SMM is actuated, therefore reduces heat transfer to human body. Under normal conditions, the SMM is flat that doesn’t affect wearer’s motion ability and wearing appearance. This article overviewed and summarized the international state-of-the-art research status on the application of SMM in both thermal and cold protective clothing. The key issues in this area were discussed. Based on the above analysis, the specific direction for the application of SMM in protective clothing in the future was highlighted in terms of air gap size, heat exposure, protective clothing factors, quantity and distribution of SMM, etc. And the development trend in protective clothing incorporated with SMM was proposed from the perspective of human-clothing-environment system.