织造参数对经编PBT和PET交织织物弹性的影响

采用PBT和PET长丝交织获得弹性经编针织物,讨论织物组织、牵拉密度、送经量对经编交织面料定负荷伸长的影响,并测试经编交织织物的定负荷伸长值。实验结果表明:使用经绒平组织在E28机号上织造,牵拉密度宜控制在18~20线圈/cm。当牵拉密度从16线圈/cm增加到26线圈/cm时,横向定负荷拉伸长值逐渐减小。当前梳GB1的PET纱线送经量保持恒定时,纵向定负荷拉伸长度随着后梳GB2的PBT纱线送经量的增大而增大。当后梳GB2的PBT纱线送经量保持一致时,增加前梳GB1的PET纱线送经量会使得纵向定负荷拉伸长增大,横向定负荷拉伸长降低。实验揭示了织造参数对织物定负荷伸长影响的规律,对PET/PBT经编针织物的生产提供参考。     

经编无缝上装尺寸的影响因素

分析了影响经编无缝上装尺寸的因素,对牵拉密度和贾卡组织两个主要影响因素采用实验方法进行研究,利用SPSS对实验数据进行相关性分析,得出:在相同的贾卡组织结构下,随着牵拉密度的增加,成品织物的纵密和横密都变大,即成品织物的纵向尺寸和横向尺寸都变小;在同一种牵拉密度下,织物组织结构从密到稀变化时,成品织物的纵密变小,即纵向尺寸变大,而随着组织结构疏密的变化,成品织物横向没有一定的变化规律。研究结论对快速、正确地确定经编无缝上衣的编织工艺具有指导意义。     

局部衬纬经编织物分析

弄清衬纬组织与基本组织的联结关系是分析局部衬纬经编织物的基础.文中引用绝对值概念对衬纬组织与编链、经平、经缎、经绒等基本组织的组合联结进行了分析,得出:地组织延展线与衬纬纱线段是否存在交叉点及交叉点数量的多少,取决于地梳和衬纬梳针背横移后是否存在相对针背横移及相对横移量的大小,并具体给出了地组织延展线与衬纬纱线段交叉的显现规律.阐述了衬纬组织与地组织同、反向垫纱的织物特点和编织特点,介绍了织物分析步骤及要求.     

多梳贾卡织物结构形变研究与计算机仿真

为实现多梳贾卡织物的形变模拟,尤其是提花地网中不同大小网眼对织物形变的模拟,建立了适用于多梳贾卡经编织物的质点弹簧模型。通过研究多梳贾卡织物的组织结构和贾卡提花原理,将地梳线圈简化为质点,连接线圈之间的延展线简化为弹簧,并进一步将地梳、氨纶梳和衬纬贾卡梳、花梳形成的组织简化为纵向结 构弹簧、卷曲弹簧、横向结构弹簧和约束弹簧;研究了线圈质点在４ 种弹簧复合作用下的受力,引入弹簧阻尼力以减小质点弹簧系统的振动;采用显式欧拉方法求解任意时刻质点的运动状态来减少线圈形变模拟过程的计算时间;通过实样举例,将形变模拟的预测效果与上机编织样布进行对比,验证了所建质点弹簧模型的正确性和实用性。     

PTT针织物刚柔性测试分析

首先选用PTT纱线编织了3种针织物,然后采用心形法对其刚柔性进行测试,并分别比较了织物横、纵向和正、反面的刚柔性,以及织物密度、组织结构对织物刚柔性的影响。最后根据穿着过程中需要洗涤这一实际情况,测试比较了不同水洗温度和不同水洗次数下织物刚柔性的变化。结果表明:织物横向比纵向的柔性稍好;织物正面比反面的柔性稍好;同一组织结构的织物密度增大,柔性变差;组织结构中浮线的存在增加了织物的刚性;随着水洗温度的升高,织物的柔性变差;随着水洗次数的增加,织物柔性呈下降趋势。     

导电针织物不同方向上的电阻测试分析

为探索导电针织物不同方向上的电阻及其随拉伸应变的变化情况,文章以涤纶/石墨烯导电纱线为原料,采用1+1罗纹组织,在电脑横机上编织了3种不同密度、5种不同宽度的针织物,分别以织物的横列方向和纵行方向为试样的长度方向,制得5种不同宽度的试样共30块,用数字万用表测试了试样的电阻及在拉伸率为10%时的拉伸电阻,并对实验结果进行了比较分析。结果显示：密度相同的试样,织物在横向和纵向上的电阻和拉伸电阻均随着试样宽度的增加而减小;尺寸相同的试样,织物的纵向电阻和纵向拉伸电阻均大于其横向电阻和横向拉伸电阻,但二者拉伸电阻变化率在密度不同时的大小关系不同。     

纬编牛仔面料的设计及其弹性回复性

为研究纬编针织牛仔面料的保型性和尺寸稳定性,以靛蓝纱、本白棉纱、涤纶、氨纶为原料,采用成圈＋ 浮线、集圈＋ 浮线的复合组织设计了斜纹和鱼鳞结构的2类共11款弹力纬编牛仔面料作为裤料。对11款纬编牛仔面料的弹性回复性进行了测试,结果表明纬编牛仔面料的纵向弹性回复性均优于横向,适合横裁;织物纵向即腿围方向弹性回复性好,拉伸弹性实验测试中,横向即裤长方向因浮线的存在需施加较大的定伸长力,说明横向的延伸性及弹性较小;组织结构和浮线长度对横向弹性回复性影响较大,织物纵向的弹性回复性受氨纶线密度、比例和线长影响。当组织均为六路斜纹时,非弹性纱线密度大,单次拉伸弹性回复率与纵密成反比,但3次拉伸后弹性回复率下降明显,表明非弹性纱线密度越大,纬编牛仔的纵向多次拉伸弹性回复率越差。     

经编网格织物工艺参数对强力的影响

从组织结构和织物密度两方面对经编拉舍尔网格织物力学性能的影响因素进行探讨,分析两种工艺参数不同时,其织物的横、纵向强力,结点强力,断裂伸长率等的变化规律。结果表明:随着编织梳栉数量的增多和织物密度的增大,网格织物的横、纵向强力和断裂伸长率逐渐增加。     

双色复合卷边针织组织设计方法研究

为从织物组织结构和表面效果进一步创新,拓宽针织组织的设计思维,基于针织物的卷边特性,从针织物的组织结构设计入手,针对双色双面针织组织结构进行织物卷边特性复合型组织结构的设计开发.阐述针织组织卷边原理,设计双色纵向卷边针织组织和双色横向卷边针织组织,详细介绍设备参数、原料选择、组织结构设计、制版等编织工艺.并分析影响双色...     

拼纱根数对空气层组织织物拉伸性能的影响

为开发增强作用更好的纬编空气层针织复合材料,在相同编织原料及编织工艺的情况下,用龙星电脑横机编织拼纱根数不同的纬编空气层组织织物,分别对织物的横向和纵向进行拉伸测试,并应用Origin软件对数据进行拟合分析,同时对织物中纱线承载能力进行分析。结果表明,在同等条件下,作为复合材料增强体的空气层组织织物在满足横纵向的弹性及应力最佳时,应选择在横纵向的弹性交叉点及应力交叉点附近的根数较为适宜;空气层组织织物中横向纱线拉伸强力的贡献率远高于纵向纱线的钩结强力;可以通过控制拼纱根数获取弹性及应力最佳的空气层组织增强体。     

A relationship between dry-relaxed warp-knitted fabric structure and curling distance

This study provides us information about relationship between curling and knitted structure and density of two-guide bar warp-knitted fabrics. Five standard warp-knitted fabrics are produced with three densities (Tricot, Locknit, three-needle Satin, Reveres Locknit and three-needle Sharkskin). Certain cut lengths of sample fabrics in both wale and course direction are analyzed through image processing to define curling value. A mechanical model, a function of fabric structure and yarn parameters, is also suggested to predict the curling force. The results of experimental and theoretical results show a greater curling value for course-wise cut in comparison to that of wale-wise in all warp-knitted structures and densities. The lowest curling value is found for three-needle Sharkskin structure in both directions and all densities.     

Investigation into the curling behavior of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics and its prediction using neural network model

This research investigates the effect of fiber, yarn, and fabric parameters on curling phenomenon of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics which is interpreted to have curling surface in both course and wale direction. Taguchi’s experimental design is used to estimate the optimum process conditions and to examine the individual effects of all controllable factors on curling one by one. The controllable factors are blending ratio of polyester to cotton fiber, yarn twist and count, fabric structure, knit density, and relaxation time. Results show that fabric structure and knit density have the most dominant effect on the fabric curling. The optimum conditions of minimum curling values were also determined. Finally, the curling surface in course and wale direction as a two features of curling phenomenon was predicted using artificial neural network which selects scale conjugate gradient learning algorithm based on process parameters of single jersey weft-knitted fabrics. Our findings confirm the good capability of artificial neural network algorithm to predict these features.     

The influence of two bar warp-knitted structure on the fabric tensile stress relaxation Part II: (locknit,satin, loop raised)

When strain is applied constantly, there is a decreased stress with time in viscoelastic materials, which is called stress relaxation. During the manufacture and application of clothing and footwear, materials experience various long-lasting deformations, and relaxation process in materials arises. Thus, with theoretical and experimental study of the factors affecting stress relaxation, the ability to design and produce appropriate clothes will be increased. In the first part of this research, we studied the stress relaxation behavior of warp-knitted structures which have longer underlaps in back bar (reverse locknit, three- and four-needle sharkskin, and queens’ cord). Following the previous research, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of fabric structure, strain percentage, and course density on the stress and stress relaxation of the warp-knitted structures which have longer underlaps in front bar (locknit, three- and four-needle satin, and loop raised). The results reveal that the fabric structure, strain value, and fabric density are important factors affecting the stress and stress relaxation percent of the fabrics. By increasing the strain and the length of underlap in the front guide bar, stress and stress relaxation percent will be increased. Also, fabrics with higher course density show higher stress and stress relaxation percent. Among the mechanical models used to describe the stress relaxation behavior of the fabrics, the three-component Maxwell’s model with parallel-connect nonlinear spring showed the best agreement with the experimental stress relaxation curves of the analyzed fabrics.     

The influence of two bar warp-knitted structure on the fabric tensile stress relaxation Part I: (reverse locknit,sharkskin, queens’ cord)

Time-dependent mechanical behavior of textiles has particular importance. One of such behaviors is the stress relaxation. If a fabric is under tension over a period of time, some of the stresses in it will be relieved. During the manufacture and application of clothing and footwear, materials experience various long-lasting deformations, and relaxation process in materials arises. For example, if medical pressure garments such as compression stockings are under tension over a long period of time, some of their stresses will be relieved, with a consequent reduction in the skin and garment interfacial pressure. Thus, with theoretical and experimental study of the factors affecting stress relaxation, the ability to design and produce appropriate clothes will be increased. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of fabric structure on the stress relaxation of two bar warp-knitted fabrics (reverse locknit, sharkskin, queens’ cord), as well as to find the effect of strain value and loading direction on the stress relaxation of the fabrics. The results reveal that the fabric structure, strain, and loading direction are important factors affecting the stress and stress relaxation percent of the fabrics. By increasing the strain and the length of underlap in the back guide bar, stress will be increased, but stress relaxation percent will be decreased. Also, stress relaxation percent in wale direction is more than course direction for reverse locknit and sharkskin3, but this is reversed for sharkskin4 and queens’ cord. Finally, among the mechanical models used to describe the stress relaxation behavior of the fabrics, three-component Maxwell’s model with parallel-connect nonlinear spring showed the best agreement with the experimental relaxation curve of the analyzed fabrics.     

A novel approach for simulation of curling behavior of knitted fabric based on mass spring model

Edge curling is a unique property of knitted fabrics which affects on fashion such as using upper and side curling in cloth design. The purpose of this research is to present a new method to simulate drape behavior of knitted fabric considering difference between single and double jersey knitted fabrics. To this point, at first the bending and torsion moments that applied on the fabric edges and caused curling in single knitted fabric are determined. Also it demonstrated that these moments will be neutralized in double knitted and as the results, leads to a non-curling structure. Then, using the mass spring model, curling shape in fabric wale and course directions are simulated. To show efficiency of the proposed model, real 3D shape of single knitted fabric is compared with experimental results. Also, using the proposed model, the drape behaviors of single and double jersey knitted fabrics hanging from two fixed corners with different properties are simulated and then extend to simulation of skirt. Results of simulation are compared with 3D shapes of actual drape behavior in fabric samples which are achieved by depth camera. The simulated results show good agreement with 3D shapes of actual fabrics.     

衬垫用经编间隔织物的压陷性能

为获得具有良好支撑性和压力分布的衬垫用经编间隔织物,对不同规格的经编间隔织物的压陷性能进行研究。在双针床拉舍尔经编机上,通过改变织物纵密、间隔丝垫纱角度、间隔丝直径以及脱圈板距离,试织了13种经编间隔织物试样。测试了试样的压缩应力与应变曲线,并以25%和65%压陷硬度和支撑因子作为评价织物压陷性能的指标。探讨间隔丝密度、垫纱角度和直径以及织物厚度对经编间隔织物压陷性能的影响。研究结果指出：织物屈服阶段是研究织物压缩性能的重要阶段;通过各种结构参数的合理配置,可以获取具有理想压缩特性的经编间隔织物衬垫材料。     

宏弯光纤应变传感经编织物的设计

为开发一种利用宏弯原理测量人体呼吸和心跳的光纤传感织物,设计了以棉纱编织的经绒斜为地组织,以直径为1 000μm的聚合物光纤为衬纬纱的经编衬纬复合织物。通过光纤弯曲实验研究了光纤弯曲曲率半径与光信号衰减之间的关系,确定了衬纬光纤的初始弯曲曲率半径为10 mm,选择传感循环单元数为2;通过比较分析双梳经编织物组织的特点,确定了传感织物的地组织。在此基础上设计了织物垫纱运动图和线圈密度,并在手动经编小样织机上编织出传感织物;最后对这些织物进行了测试。结果表明,传感织物可通过电压值变化的形式反映出拉伸过程中光信号相对于织物形状的变化。     

An analysis of the bending rigidity of warp-knitted fabrics: a comparison of experimental results to a mechanical model

This study focuses on the bending rigidity of warp-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure (underlaps length), density (wale and course spacing) and yarn bending properties. Seven standard warp-knitted fabrics are produced with three different densities (Tricot, Locknit, three and four needles Satin, Reveres Locknit, three and four needles Sharkskin). The bending rigidity of the fabrics is measured using a Kawabata evaluation system and an automatic cyclic bending tester. Results show that the bending rigidity increases for the fabrics with a higher density and underlaps length of the front and back guide bars. In addition, a new mechanical model for the bending behaviour of warp-knitted fabrics using an energy method is presented. In this model, the knitted loop structure is assumed to consist of a series of straight and skew yarns simulating legs and underlaps while considering a rigid region lying in the direction of bending. Experimental results show that there is a reasonable agreement between the calculated and measured values for both wale and course directions.     

交织对无缝内衣面料结构与伸缩性的影响

本文选择了cooldry吸湿速干涤纶、Thermolite保暖涤纶和Tencel再生纤维及氨纶/锦纶弹力包芯纱分别为面纱和地纱,采用平纹添纱组织和N6上机密度设计与织造了4组16种交织物。对织物的纵横向密度、平方米重及厚度,拉伸伸长率及弹性回复率进行了测试与分析,并采用一元方差分析了交织对无缝内衣面料结构规格与伸缩性影响的显著性。结果表明,交织对织物纵横向密度、平方米重及厚度,拉伸伸长率影响均十分显著,对织物弹性回复率影响不显著;织物密度、单米重、厚度及拉伸率较大的交织方式为：面纱、地纱均为弹力包芯纱与非弹力纱间隔1根排列,或织物面纱为非弹力纱,地纱为弹力包芯纱。其研究结果对无缝内衣的设计与开发具有一定的参考价值。     

Utilization of the yarn pullout test in estimation of the reserved energy of rib knitted fabrics

The yarn pullout test is a prevailing and particular method to evaluate the effects of yarn properties and the structural characteristics of the fabric on the fabric mechanical performance. In this research, a theoretical model of yarn pull out is presented to determine the reserved energy of weft-knitted fabrics with rib 1 × 1 structure. This model is based on the fabric dimensional properties, i.e. stitch length, wale density, yarn diameter and contact angle of yarns. In order to appraise the proposed model, five different double jersey weft-knitted fabrics with rib 1 × 1 structure were produced and exposed to pullout test. Comparison between deviations of theoretical results from experimental results demonstrates that the presented theoretical model exhibits a rational estimation of the reserved energy in these fabrics.