基于图像处理的织物多方向抗皱性测试方法

目前的抗皱性测试方法只能测试织物单一方向的折皱回复性,这与服装穿着时多方向的起皱形态相差较大。针对这种情况,本文首先设计一种能近似模拟服装膝盖和肘部起皱形态的多方向起皱装置,然后给出了其使用与测试方法,进而提出两个评价指标--急弹性和缓弹性抗皱面积比,最后将20块织物的这两个指标与急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角进行对比分析,得出急弹性和缓弹性抗皱面积比分别与急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角具有高度正相关关系。且多方向起皱装置所形成的折皱形态更接近服装实际穿着时的起皱形态,也能更好地反映织物的综合抗皱能力。     

应用小波分析的服装关节部位抗皱性评价

为研究服装在实际着装过程中起皱的客观评价方法,以15块机织试样为研究对象,将其制作成试穿裤,进行实际着装起皱,然后对折皱图像进行主观评价,利用小波分析技术提取特征值,最后将小波特征值与主观评价及折皱回复角度进行对比研究。结果表明：小波分析的细节系数标准差与专家主观评价结果具有良好的一致性,可提取小波二层分解时水平方向的细节系数标准差作为取代主观评价的客观指标,以节约时间和成本;织物经向抗皱性对着装时服装抗折皱变形的贡献最大,斜向其次,纬向最小;采用折皱回复角表征织物抗皱能力时,建议增加斜向折皱回复角的测试,同时赋予经纬向不同的权重（经向大于纬向）,以提高测试结果与实际着装时的吻合度。     

基于原位力学测试的织物折皱回复性表征

针对现有基于折皱回复角和外观平整度的织物折皱回复性评价方法在织物品种适应性和评价结果稳定性等方面的缺陷,提出织物折皱回复性的原位力学测试方法。通过解析原位力学测试原理,基于所测的力-位移测试曲线,提取用于表征织物折皱回复性的3个评价指标;并通过与织物折皱回复角变异系数的对比分析,说明原位力学测试方法的可靠性和稳定性好于折皱回复角法;采用相关性分析发现,折皱特征指标和织物折皱回复角在0.01水平下显著相关,表明原位力学测试方法可有效评价织物的折皱回复性能,并基于折皱特征指标构建了织物折皱回复角的多元回归模型,可用于织物折皱回复性能的全面、客观表征。     

织物折皱回复的各向异性表征

针对织物折皱回复存在各向异性且难以描述的问题,将通过研究试样取向角与其对应的折皱回复角的关系,寻找更科学的织物折皱回复性能表征方法。选择纯棉平纹和斜纹织物为实验材料,从经纱方向（取向角定为0°）顺时针旋转,每隔15°取一试样,平纹织物取样角度范围为0°~90°,斜纹织物取样角度范围为0°~180°。通过机器视觉测量每一试样的折皱回复角,结果表明：平纹织物可用15°和75°取向角对应的折皱回复角均值表征织物折皱回复性能;斜纹织物折皱回复角与其纹路角度密切相关,对于左斜120°左右的斜纹织物,正面用取向角15°、105°、120°的折皱回复角均值,反面用取向角0°、60°、120°的折皱回复角均值来表示织物折皱回复性能更加合理。     

织物多向抗皱性分析研究

为了全面评价织物多向抗皱性,运用YG541E全自动数字式织物折皱弹性仪测试24块织物12个不同方向的折皱回复角。通过研究得到以下结论:不同方向的折皱回复角存在显著差异性;运用灰色关联分析法提取出的折皱回复角综合指标的标准偏差均小于经纬平均值标准差,故推断出运用综合指标作为织物抗皱性评定指标更为合理;将运用灰色关联分析法提取出的综合指标作为织物抗皱性评定指标更为合理;运用逐步回归分析法建立综合折皱回复角与不同角度折皱回复角的模型:Y=9.010+0.108X1+0.173X2+0.179X3+0.321X4+0.145 X5。     

纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系

为从织物自身组织结构方面优化纯棉织物的折皱性,首先设计织物组织结构参数并制备织物,利用数字式织物折皱弹性仪测得织物的折皱回复角。在此基础上,建立纯棉织物经、纬向和总折皱回复角与织物组织结构参数(包括经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度、经纬向密度)之间的线性回归方程;同时分析织物折皱回复角与各组织结构参数间的相关性。结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角实测值绝对误差不超过0.61°,回归方程具有较高的实用性;经纬纱捻度、线密度对纯棉织物的折皱回复性影响最大,可通过提高经纬纱捻度、降低经纬纱线密度来改善纯棉织物的抗皱性。     

织物压皱弹性性能评价新方法探究

目前织物抗皱性能只能检测织物经、纬方向折皱弹性回复角,无法检测其他方向折皱性能,为寻求贴近人体实际穿着过程的织物抗皱性的新评价方法,采用圆形织物试样,并按一定方式折皱处理,用500 g砝码加压16 h后取出,用数码相机拍摄织物四侧面图像,用专用软件对图像进行处理,获得织物压皱后四侧面增加面积,比较织物4个压皱侧面面积与折皱弹性回复角测试数据,两者之间相关性达94%.     

涤/毛平纹织物各向抗皱性能差异分析

使用YG(B)541E型智能式织物折皱弹性仪,测试5块不同规格涤/毛平纹织物的7个不同方向折皱回复角,分析各向抗皱性能差异.通过研究得到结论:与织物经向接近方向折皱回复角与经向差异较小,而与织物纬向接近方向折皱回角与纬向差异较大;织物经、纬密度小的,缓弹性回复性能较好;交织织物各角度抗皱性能具有明显规律,而混纺织物规律不明显.     

织物折皱回复角与其力学性能指标间的关系

为探究较精确、易行的测试和表征织物折皱回复角的方法,首先采用KES-F织物风格仪测试了织物的弯曲、剪切、拉伸和压缩性能,并在KES系统原有力学性能指标基础上引入2个新指标:残余弯曲曲率和残余剪切变形,进而通过数据分析建立了采用织物力学性能指标表示其经、纬向折皱回复角的回归方程;同时分析了织物折皱回复角与各力学性能指标间的相关性.结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角的实测值差异不超过0.1°:拉伸功回复率、拉伸比功和弯曲刚度对织物折皱回复性的影响最大,可以通过提高织物的抗拉伸、弯曲和剪切性能及拉伸功回复率来改善织物的抗皱性.     

基于视频序列的毛/涤织物折皱回复各向异性研究

织物实际使用中产生的折皱是多向立体的,需要对织物不同取向进行折皱回复性能的研究。现有的测量方法只能测量静态回复角,无法显示织物折皱回复过程。采用视频序列的动态测量方法测试了3块不同规格羊毛平纹织物7个不同方向的折皱回复过程,分析各向折皱回复性能的差异。实验结果表明:羊毛织物回复迅速,动态测试系统优势明显;纯羊毛织物比含涤纶羊毛织物折皱回复性能好,织物在急弹和缓弹阶段的折皱回复各向异性一致;在取向角为45°时,折皱回复性能最好。     

Investigation on the novel measurement for fabric wrinkle simulating actual wear

It is very important to measure fabric wrinkling objectively and accurately. However, the most commonly used measurements could not be employed to realistically evaluate and predict how fabric will resist wrinkle when worn on human body. In our previous study, an equipment of measuring fabric wrinkling that can simulate actual wear was proposed. In this paper, we conduct further investigation on the measurement for fabric wrinkle-simulating actual wear, including improving the equipment, validating its repeatability, and clarifying its more accurate relationship with the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) method. Results show that the measuring repeatability of the method is much better than WRA method and fabric wrinkling in the warp and bias direction plays more important part than weft. Therefore, it is advisable that WRA of the bias should be increased, whose measurement stability is the best in the WRA method as well. Equations of Wrinkle Density (WD) with WRAs are established, which can be used to estimate wrinkling of clothes after actual wear only by several WRAs of fabrics, avoiding the tedious clothes making and trial work.     

Energy modelling of fabrics wrinkle recovery behaviour

Wrinkle recovery behaviour is an important property of fabrics for apparel applications. Fifty fabrics of a variety of constructions have been objectively evaluated in order to study the wrinkle recovery after a deformation. The wrinkle recovery behaviour was studied based on energy modelling. To study their wrinkle recovery properties, fabrics are modelled with the energy method. It is shown that the more the energy dissipation is low, the more fabric is able to recover to its initial state and then the more residual deformation is low. Thus, the energy dissipation can be used to estimate the ability of the fabric to recover to its initial state. In this paper, we also studied the effect of the fatigue test after the repeated wrinkling. Further, the increase of the fatigue cycle number after repeated wrinkling resulted in an increase of the residual deformation and permanent deformation. This method allows us for better approximation of the real behaviour of multidirectional wrinkling of clothing during wearing.     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

丙三醇缩水甘油醚和壳聚糖对蚕丝织物的复合整理

为了改善蚕丝织物的服用性能,提高其抗皱和抗菌性能,用丙三醇缩水甘油醚和壳聚糖对蚕丝织物进行后整理。采用微波辐照方法接枝丙三醇缩水甘油醚,再用壳聚糖醋酸溶液进行二浸二轧后整理。对整理后的蚕丝织物进行力学性能和白度测试。用正交分析法对整理工艺进行优化,得出最佳处理工艺。结果表明,经整理后,蚕丝织物的抗皱性有较大提高;织物的急弹性回复角提高50°左右,缓弹性回复角提高30°左右,断裂强力和白度略有下降。     

精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱回复性的关系

为探究精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱性能的关系,收集了18 种精纺毛织物,应用JN-1型织物折皱回复性能动态测试仪进行折皱回复角测试,通过数据分析,得出结构参数与折皱回复角间的关系。为了进一步分析各结构参数对织物抗皱性能的影响程度,找出对折皱回复角影响较大的结构参数,同时研究了织物结构参数与折皱回复角的相关性。结果表明：精纺毛织物的折皱回复性不仅与织物原料、纱线线密度和捻度有关,还与织物经纬密、织物紧度以及面密度有关;除了纤维原料以外,纱线捻度对织物折皱回复性的影响最为显著。     

织物折皱回复角与其物理力学性能的关系

 针对当前织物抗皱性能的重要评价指标折皱回复角的检测存在工作量大,测量精度低,测试数据不稳定等问题,运用KES-F风格仪测量织物的弯曲刚度、弯曲滞后矩、拉伸功和织物厚度等物理力学参数,运用SDL-M003A折皱回复角试验机按AATCC 66—2003测得织物的折皱回复角,在此基础上,建立织物的折皱回复角与织物物理力学参数之间的线性回归方程。从折皱回复角计算值和实测值的检验结果看,二者的绝对误差小于3°,相对误差小于5%,表明得出的回归方程有较高的应用价值。     

Fabric wrinkling evaluation: a method developed using digital image analysis

The textile and clothing industry has conventionally used subjective methods for the assessment of fabric wrinkling. Indeed, the fabrics were usually evaluated subjectively in reference to a set of visual standards. However, the visual assessments of the wrinkling degree, often showing inconsistencies between wrinkle judgments of observers, are severely influenced by the color and the fabric texture which may exist. In this paper, an objective method which permits an evaluation of multidirectional wrinkling of any colored fabric has been developed using digital image analysis. This method consists in capturing images of the color wrinkled fabrics and processing them in simple steps using image‐processing software. The surface roughness, density, width, length, number, and height of the wrinkles, considered as wrinkling characteristics, were extracted. Wrinkle degree was selected to use as the comparative parameter of the result evaluation from conventional and digital methods. The wrinkle grade of each fabric sample obtained through the conventional technique was statistically compared with that obtained through the digital technique developed. This study demonstrates that the results of the digital method developed for wrinkle evaluation of colored fabrics were similar to those of conventional methods of wrinkling evaluation.