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1.
《Food Hydrocolloids》2006,20(2-3):253-260
Microemulsions are transparent, isotropic solutions of oil, water and surfactant (and possibly cosurfactant) which are thermodynamically stable, and have been much studied in terms of pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. However, the application of microemulsions in foods has been limited both due to toxic or irritant nature of ionic surfactants and the difficulty of solubilising large triglycerides. Three surfactants, food-grade ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides (EMD) and phospholipids, and non-food-grade polyoxyethylene oleyl ether (POE) were examined for their ability to form microemulsions using soybean oil, and their areas of formation expressed on phase diagrams. Microemulsions prepared with EMD and phospholipids required the presence of a short-chain alcohol for formation. Both oil/water (o/w) and water/oil (w/o) microemulsions could be formed using EMD, and the microemulsion area of the phase diagram increased on addition of sucrose and increase in temperature. Depending on sucrose and ethanol concentrations, microemulsions formed with EMD were found to retain their integrity at temperatures below which they formed. Microemulsions could be formed using phospholipids, but only at high surfactant concentration and in the presence of a short-chain alcohol. O/w microemulsions containing 10% oil (w/w) were prepared with POE at surfactant concentrations of >20% (w/w). Dynamic light scattering of microemulsion samples diluted with water indicated particle radii of 6.5 nm. Freeze-fracture SEM showed the structures to be of a droplet type, however, this was more evident at higher surfactant/oil concentrations. The results indicated that it is possible to formulate microemulsions at low EMD and POE surfactant concentration. These microemulsions systems may potentially be used for encapsulation of oil-soluble bioactives, e.g. α-tocopherol, in food systems.  相似文献   

2.
It has been recognized that the vehicle in which a permeant is applied to the skin has a distinctive effect on the dermal and transdermal delivery of active ingredients. The cutaneous and percutaneous absorptions can be enhanced, e.g. by an increase in thermodynamic activity, supersaturation and penetration modifiers. Furthermore, dermal and transdermal delivery can be influenced by the interactions that may occur between the vehicle and the skin on the one hand, and interactions between the active ingredient and the skin on the other hand. Emulsions are widely used as cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations because of their excellent solubilizing capacities for lipophilic and hydrophilic active ingredients and application acceptability. This review focuses, in particular, on the effect of emulsions on the dermal and transdermal delivery of active ingredients. It is shown that the type of emulsion (w/o vs. o/w emulsion), the droplet size, the emollient, the emulsifier as well as the surfactant organization (micelles, lyotropic liquid crystals) in the emulsion may affect the cutaneous and percutaneous absorption. Examples substantiate the fact that emulsion constituents such as emollients and emulsifiers should be selected carefully for optimal efficiency of the formulation. Moreover, to understand the influence of emulsion on dermal and transdermal delivery, the physicochemical properties of the formulation after application are considered.  相似文献   

3.
This paper presents a set of surfactant-selection guidelines that can be used to design bio-based semi-synthetic metalworking fluid (MWF) microemulsions as a renewable alternative to conventional petroleum formulations. Ten surfactant classes (six anionic and four nonionic) with different head and tail structures and three vegetable base oils (canola oil, soybean oil, and a fatty acid trimethylolpropane ester) were investigated as representatives of oil and surfactant options currently under consideration in the MWF industry. All combinations of these surfactants and oils were formulated at the full range of oil to surfactant ratios and surfactant concentrations. The stability of each formulation was evaluated based on visual transparency, light transmittance, and droplet diameter. The experimental results yield the following guidelines that produce stable bio-based MWF microemulsions with minimum necessary concentrations of surfactants: (1) a combination of two surfactants, one nonionic and one water soluble co-surfactant (either nonionic or anionic) is preferred over a single surfactant; (2) the nonionic surfactant should have a carbon tail length greater than or equal to the nominal carbon chain length of the fatty acids in the oil as well as a head group that is not excessively small or large (e.g., 10-20 ethylene oxide groups for a polysorbitan ester, ethoxylated alcohol, or ethoxylated glyceryl ester); (3) the difference in tail lengths between the surfactant and the co-surfactant should be less than 6 to maximize the feasible range of oil to surfactant ratios yielding stable emulsions. These guidelines are consistent with general results of micelle solubilization theory and evidence is provided to suggest that common semi-synthetic MWF systems can be thought of as swollen micelle systems.  相似文献   

4.
Twenty products, containing a radiolabelled form of each active in typical cosmetic formulations, were made and applied to female human epidermal membranes mounted in Franz diffusion cells for 48 h under ‘in use’ conditions. The products consisted of combinations of five formulations (a hydro‐alcoholic gel, an oil in water emulsion, a water in oil emulsion, a microemulsion and an oil) with four model drug actives (testosterone, hydrocortisone, 5‐fluorouracil and ketoconazole). Steady‐state flux appeared to be reached by 8 h and maintained for all products, other than for the microemulsions, consistent with the actives being present in the residual formulation on the skin at saturation. The recovery for each active at the end of the 48‐h study (from a series of stratum corneum tape strips, the remaining skin, cumulative amount penetrating into the receptor solution, product washed from the skin and on the donor chamber cap) ranged from 86.5% to 100.6%. The rank order of the fluxes for the actives from the hydro‐alcoholic gel is consistent with the known active molecular size and polarity determinants for maximum epidermal flux. Actives with similar steady‐state (maximum) fluxes from a range of formulations had retention in the stratum corneum and similar transport rate constants through the stratum corneum. The microemulsion formulation significantly enhanced both the stratum corneum steady‐state flux and transport rate constant for 5‐fluorouracil, hydrocortisone and testosterone. The penetration flux of each active could be related to its size and polarity and appeared maximal when the actives in the different cosmetic formulations applied to the skin under ‘in use’ conditions were likely to remain in the residual product on the skin as a saturated solution after solvent evaporation. Enhanced penetration fluxes can be achieved by formulation selection and an appropriate choice/mix of emollients/adjuvants. The principles described here provide a framework for understanding the delivery of cosmetic ingredients from various formulations.  相似文献   

5.
A novel supercritical fluid extrusion (SCFX) process was used to successfully texturize whey protein concentrate (WPC) into a product with cold-setting gel characteristics that was stable over a wide range of temperature. It was further hypothesized that incorporation of texturized WPC (tWPC) within an aqueous phase could improve emulsion stability and enhance the rheological properties of cold, gel-like emulsions. The emulsifying activity and emulsion stability indices of tWPC and its ability to prevent coalescence of oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions were evaluated and compared with the commercial WPC80. The cold, gel-like emulsions were prepared at different oil fractions (φ = 0.20–0.80) by mixing oil with the 20% (w/w) tWPC dispersion at 25 °C and evaluated using a range of rheological techniques. Microscopic structure of cold, gel-like emulsions was also observed by Confocal Laser Scanning Microscope (CLSM). The results revealed that the tWPC showed excellent emulsifying properties compared to the commercial WPC in slowing down emulsion breaking mechanisms such as creaming and coalescence. Very stable with finely dispersed fat droplets, and homogeneous o/w gel-like emulsions could be produced. Steady shear viscosity and complex viscosity were well correlated using the generalized Cox–Merz rule. Emulsions with higher viscosity and elasticity were obtained by raising the oil fraction. Only 4% (w/w) tWPC was needed to emulsify 80% (w/w) oil with long-term storage stability. The emulsion products showed a higher thermal stability upon heating to 85 °C and could be used as an alternative to concentrated o/w emulsions and in food formulations containing heat-sensitive ingredients.  相似文献   

6.
The cutaneous tolerability of detergent formulations can be improved by means of suitable additives. Exogenous proteins, for example, are able to reduce the skin irritation potential of surfactants according to a double mechanism: they complex the surfactant molecules lowering the concentration of their free monomeric species; they link to the skin keratin forming a protective colloidal layer that shields the denaturing attack of surfactants. Protein derivatives used as additives for detergency are usually prepared by partial hydrolysis of animal scleroproteins or plant reserve proteins. The main purpose of the hydrolytic cleavage is to make them water soluble and suitable for liquid products. Native, non hydrolysed wheat proteins have been recently introduced as active ingredients for detergents. Water solubility and stability are obtained by means of complexation with surfactants which also increases their actual hydrophobicity, an important parameter affecting cosmetic properties of proteins. The anti-irritant properties of these new derivatives of detergents have been evaluated by in vitro predictive tests (swelling response of collagen membranes), by acute irritancy in vivo methods (occlusive patch tests) and by use tests (forearm washing test). Transepidermal water loss and electric capacitance have been adopted as investigation techniques to evaluate the skin integrity/damage after the in vivo tests. The performance of native wheat protein-surfactant complexes has been compared with traditional protein hydrolysates and to amphoteric surfactants as detergent additives. The results show a noticeable reduction of skin irritation in surfactant formulations with addition of native wheat proteins.  相似文献   

7.
In vitro skin permeation of sunscreen agents from O/W emulsions   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The effects of different emulsifiers on the in vitro permeation through human skin of two sunscreen agents [octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM)] were investigated from O/W emulsions. The test formulations were prepared using the same oil and aqueous phase ingredients and the following emulsifier and coemulsifier systems: Emulgade SE((R)) (ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 1); Brij 72((R)) (steareth-2), Brij 721((R)) (steareth-21) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 2); Phytocream((R)) (potassium palmitoyl-hydrolysed wheat protein and glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 3); Montanov 68((R)) (cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol) (emulsion 4); Xalifin-15((R)) (C(15-20) acid PEG-8 ester) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 5). The cumulative amount of OMC that permeated in vitro through human skin after 22 h from the formulations being tested decreased in the order 3 > 1 congruent with 4 > 5 > 2 and was about nine-fold higher from emulsion 3 compared with that from emulsion 2. As regards BMBM, no significant difference was observed as regards its skin permeation from emulsions 1, 3, 4 and 5, whereas formulation 2 allowed significantly lower amounts of BMBM to permeate the skin. In vitro release experiments of OMC and BMBM from emulsions 1-6 through cellulose acetate membranes showed that only emulsions 4 and 5 provided pseudo-first-order release rates only for OMC. The results of this study suggest that the type of emulsifying systems used to prepare an O/W emulsion may strongly affect sunscreen skin permeation from these formulations. Therefore, the vehicle effects should be carefully considered in the formulation of sunscreen products.  相似文献   

8.
Oil‐in‐water (O/W) emulsion‐gel systems containing high oil payloads are of increasing interest for food applications because of the reduction in encapsulation cost, consumption frequency or volume of food products. This study shows a facile approach to prepare stable alginate‐based O/W emulsions at high oil loading using a mixture of nonionic surfactants (Tween 80 and Span 20) as a template to form gelled‐emulsions. The synergistic effects of alginate and surfactants on the O/W emulsion properties were evaluated in terms of oil droplet size and emulsion stability. At 2% (w/v) of alginate and 1% (w/v) of surfactants, the size distribution of oil droplets was narrow and monomodal, even at an oil loading of 70% (v/v). The emulsions formed were stable against phase separation. The oil droplet size could be further reduced to below 1 μm using a high‐shear homogenizer. The emulsions formed could be easily molded and gelled into solids of different shapes via ionic gelation. The findings of this study create possible avenues for applications in food industries.  相似文献   

9.
Increasing requirements for cruelty-free risk assessment in the cosmetic industry have led to the development of several alternative experimental evaluation strategies. Quantification of the potential dermal absorption of ingredients of cosmetic and other formulations by determination of human skin permeation rates in vitro is particularly relevant. Using modifications of standard in vitro protocols the human skin permeation rates of several cosmetic ingredients and potential contaminants have been determined under conditions designed to mimic consumer use. Skin penetration and permeation of octyl salicylate (a sunscreen), nonylphenol ethoxylates (surfactants) and three nitrosamines (potential contaminants) is discussed. The data demonstrate the usefulness of this technique as a tool in the overall risk assessment of cosmetic formulations.  相似文献   

10.
Dispersions of lamellar phases of non-ionic lipids in cosmetic products   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Although aqueous dispersions of lipids in the form of particles having a lamellar structure (liposomes) are already known as excellent vehicles for pharmaceutical substances, their usefulness in cosmetic formulations has not been demonstrated. The present work shows the advantages obtained by application of such systems to the skin, and in particular the use of non-ionic lipids in aqueous dispersions. Thus, in comparison with classical formulations such as emulsions, these systems exhibit lower toxicity and permit closer control of the availability of active substances at the stratum corneum. As examples, compositions suitable for skin moisturising and for tanning products are presented. Dispersions de phases lamellaires de lipides non-ioniques en cosmétique  相似文献   

11.
Multicomponent gel formulations capable of assimilating, simultaneously, several active ingredients of potential application in the cosmetic field were studied.
The possibility of formation of a transparent gel was determined using a method which consisted in the optimization of several lipophilic basic compositions, composed of oil, a mixture of surfactants, a sunscreen agent, several vitamins and antioxidants situated in the base of a regular tetrahedron that symbolized the considered system. To this, a polar phase made of water, a cosolvent and urea in appropriate proportions and situated in the fourth vertex, was progressively added.
It may be concluded, that the use of phase diagrams on cosmetic systems, constitutes a useful way to select the components and their mutual ratios, allowing an adaptation to the specific requested conditions of formulation.  相似文献   

12.
The investigation studied the anti-irritant potential of several substances commonly employed in cosmetic formulations as basic components of the emulsion or as active ingredients, and evaluated the effect of the emulsifier. Five different emulsions were made irritating by addition of croton oil, in sufficient quantity to provoke a clearly adverse reaction in the rabbit, i.e. primary cutaneous irritation index (PII) close to 2. The PII was determined according to the official French methods by applying to symmetrical areas of the back, the irritant base as control and the same base containing the test substance. Fifty-five ingredients were evaluated: gelling agents, plant extracts, molecules defined as healing, anti-inflammatory substances or anaesthesic compounds, etc. The test substances were added to the emulsion at concentrations close to the ones generally found in cosmetics. The qualitative and the quantitative composition of the oil phase was similar for each emulsion.
Several gelling agents, thickeners and polymers which notably reduce skin contact with an irritant, gave good results. Some of the usual healing, anti-inflammatory, local anaesthesic compounds gave the expected results. Some ingredients, though well known, were ineffective. The type of emulsifier, by modifying cutaneous penetration and bio-availability of the active ingredients, may play an important role.
Le potential anti-irritant de constituants de base et compositions cosmétiques  相似文献   

13.
Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics.  相似文献   

14.
Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.  相似文献   

15.
In the present work, the preparation of olive oil w/o nanoemulsions was studied using non-ionic surfactants (Tween 20, Span 20) without the addition of a co-surfactant. Different olive oil endogenous compounds with an amphiphilic character (gallic acid, apigenin, quercetin, and trans-cinnamic acid) were dispersed into the aqueous phase, and their impact on the nanoemulsions stability and properties ability was determined. The stable nanoemulsions were presented in pseudo-ternary phase diagrams (oil–aqueous phase–surfactant) for each surfactant and endogenous compound. The nanoemulsions properties were evaluated in relationship to compositional components. The results of this study concluded that stable w/o olive oil nanoemulsions without use of a co-surfactant were obtained and moreover, the most efficient type of emulsifier and its ratio of addition in the system were determined. The incorporation of olive oil endogenous compounds resulted into more stable emulsions. In particular, gallic acid was proven to be the most efficient compound since it enhanced the emulsion properties prolonging simultaneously the emulsions’ stability.  相似文献   

16.
In this work we have studied the formulation of biocompatible microemulsions using lecithin as the main surfactant and bio-compatible linker molecules (hexyl polyglucoside asthe hydrophilic linker and sorbitan monoleate as the lipophilic linker). These bio-compatible systems are discussed as potential substitutes for chlorinated solvents in dry-cleaning applications and as solvent delivery systems for pharmaceutical applications. Formulation parameters and conditions were evaluated using isopropyl myristate (IPM) as the model oil. It was found that the proposed linker-based formulations were able to form alcohol-free microemulsions while achieving higher solubilization capacity than similar systems reported in the literature. In addition, these lecithin/linker formulations were able to form microemulsions with a wide range of oils, from polar chlorinated hydrocarbons to hydrophobic oils such as squalene. These microemulsions were achieved under isotonic conditions (0.9% NaCl) by only varying the relative proportions of the linkers. The "solvency" power of these bio-compatible formulations was tested for the removal of hexadecane (used as model oil) from cotton fabrics and compared to the solvency power of a typical dry cleaning solvent tetrachloroethylene (PCE). While PCE and the linker-based lecithin formulation removed the same amount of hexadecane at low loading ratios (less than 1% oil volume fraction), at higher loading ratios the linker-based lecithin formulation retained its oil removal capacity while the efficiency of the PCE system declined rapidly. These initial results thus demonstrate the remarkable oil solubilization capacity of these bio-compatible linker-based lecithin formulations and illustrate their potential as environmentally friendly replacements for organic solvents.  相似文献   

17.
The formulation of food-grade microemulsions with glycerol monolaurate (GML) for antimicrobial applications has been studied. The compositions included water, GML, short-chain alcohols (such as ethanol), polyols (propylene glycol and glycerol), salts (organic, such as sodium benzoate, sodium lactate and sodium propionate, and inorganic, such as NaCl) and several nonionic surfactants [such as ethoxylated sorbitan esters, sucrose esters (SEs)]. The phase behavior of these systems is discussed with respect to the influence of composition on the degree of oil solubilization in the aqueous phase. The oil solubilization was dramatically improved in the presence of the short-chain alcohols and polyols, organic salts contributed to the improvement of oil solubilization as hydrotropes. Tween 20 being the most hydrophilic surfactant in Tweens solubilized the maximum oil, but in the presence of SEs it is hard to form oil-in-water microemulsions. Viscosity measurements along selected dilution lines indicate that at a certain composition the system inverts from a water-in-oil to an oil-in-water microemulsion.  相似文献   

18.
Salicylic acid (SA) is a beta‐hydroxy acid and has multifunctional uses in the treatment of various diseases in skin such as acne, psoriasis, and photoaging. One problem often cited as associated with salicylic acid is that it can be quite irritating at pH 3–4, where it exhibits the highest activity in the treatment of skin diseases. We have identified strategies to control the irritation potential of salicylic acid formulations and have focused on hydroalcoholic solutions used in acne wipes. One strategy is to control the penetration of SA into the skin. Penetration of the drug into various layers of skin, i.e. epidermis, dermis, and receptor fluid, was measured using a modified Franz in vitro diffusion method after various exposure times up to 24 h. A polyurethane polymer (polyolprepolymer‐15) was found to be an effective agent in controlling delivery of SA. In a dose‐dependent fashion it targeted delivery of more SA to the epidermis as compared to penetration through the skin into the receptor fluid. It also reduced the rapid rate of permeation of a large dose of SA through the skin in the first few hours of exposure. A second strategy that proved successful was incorporation of known mild nonionic surfactants like isoceteth‐20. These surfactants cleanse the skin, yet due to their inherent mildness (because of their reduced critical micelle concentration and monomer concentration), keep the barrier intact. Also, they reduce the rate of salicylic acid penetration, presumably through micellar entrapment (either in solution or on the skin surface after the alcohol evaporates). Cumulative irritation studies showed that targeting delivery of SA to the epidermis and reducing the rapid early rate of penetration of large amounts of drug through the skin resulted in a reduced irritation potential. In vivo irritation studies also showed that the surfactant system is the most important factor controlling irritancy. SA delivery is secondary, as formulations with less SA content reduced the rate of delivery to the receptor and yet were some of the most irritating formulations tested, presumably due to the action of the specific anionic surfactant on the barrier. Alcohol content also did not appreciably affect irritation and SA delivery; formulations with considerably low alcohol content but containing anionic versus nonionic surfactant systems exhibited considerably higher irritancy. Thus the surfactant type was again the predominant factor in those studies, although arguably alcohol plays some role (solubilization of SA). Results showed that both polymers and mild surfactants work in concert to provide the optimal formulation benefits of targeted delivery and reduced irritation. Synergistic relationships among hydroalcoholic formulation components will be discussed along with the mechanisms likely involved in controlling delivery of SA to skin.  相似文献   

19.
《Food Hydrocolloids》2006,20(2-3):261-268
The inherent thermodynamic instability of water–oil–water (W/O/W) emulsions has restrictions for their application in food systems. The objective of this study was to develop a food grade W/O/W emulsions with high yield and stability using minimal concentrations of surfactants. Emulsions were prepared using soybean oil, polyglycerol ester of polyricinoleic acid (PGPR) alone or in combination with sodium caseinate (NaCN) as emulsifier(s) for primary water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions and NaCN as the sole emulsifier for secondary W/O/W emulsions. Increasing the concentration of PGPR (0.5–8%w/v) had no effect on the droplet sizes of the resulting W/O/W emulsions. However, significant increases in droplet sizes of W/O/W emulsions were observed when the concentration of NaCN in external phase was reduced from 0.5 to 0.03% (w/v) (p<0.05). Percentage yields of emulsions (using a water-soluble dye) improved when PGPR concentration in the inner phase was increased from 0.5 to 8% (w/v). A stable W/O/W emulsion with a yield >90% could be prepared with 4% (w/v) PGPR alone as primary hydrophobic emulsifier and 0.5% (w/v) NaCN as external hydrophilic emulsifier. The concentration of PGPR in the inner phase could be reduced to 2% (w/v) without affecting the yield and stability of the W/O/W emulsion by partially replacing PGPR with 0.5% (w/v) NaCN, which was added to the aqueous phase of the primary W/O emulsion. The results indicate that a possible synergistic effect may exist between PGPR and NaCN, thus allowing formulation of double emulsions with reduced surfactant concentration.  相似文献   

20.
An acrylic/alkyl acrylate co-polymer and a mixture of non-ionic surfactants (sorbitan monostearate and sorbitan monostearate(20)OE) were used to prepare o/w emulsions for cosmetic use. Formulations with optimal performances were obtained by selecting appropriate percentages of components through statistical procedures. The non-polymeric surfactants were seen to affect the stability and appearance of the emulsion, although they were used at low percentages (0.3–0.6%), and were seen to interact with the polymer in different ways. The influence of twelve w/o emulsifiers (alcohol-, glyceryl- and sorbitan-derivatives) on the emulsion was examined and models of stability and thixotropic module were calculated: the thixotropic behaviour of the emulsion depended on the structural characteristics of hydrophilic and hydrophobic moieties of the w/o surfactant molecule.  相似文献   

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