不同涤纶机织物的透气性研究

文章从纤维材料到纱线再到织物三个环节对不同涤纶机织物的透气性能进行探讨。结果表明在同样的纱线原料、纱线捻度且织物紧度相近的条件下,斜纹组织透气性最佳,平纹组织次之,重平组织最差;在织物结构相同、纱线捻度近似、而纱线原料不同时,织物的透气性变化严重;在纱线原料和织物组织都相同的情况下,捻度变化规律复杂,纱线对织物透气性的影响存在着临界捻度的问题。     

芳纶/阻燃粘胶/阻燃锦纶混纺织物制备及其性能

为获得长效阻燃、高强、耐磨且服用性能好的织物,将芳纶1414、阻燃粘胶与阻燃锦纶3种本质阻燃纤维混纺织造,探讨了混纺比、纱线捻度、织物组织结构和黏合剂种类对纱线及其织物力学性能、阻燃性能和色牢度的影响。结果表明：芳纶1414/阻燃粘胶/阻燃锦纶(30/45/25)混纺纱线同时具备优异的力学性能和阻燃性能,阻燃锦纶的加入使三元混纺纱线断裂强度相比芳纶/阻燃粘胶二元混纺纱线提升56%,耐磨次数提升58%,其纱线的力学性能随着捻度增加先增强后降低,峰值捻度为680捻/m;织物采用斜纹组织结构时,其阻燃性能和力学性能优于平纹和缎纹组织;采用非离子型丙烯酸酯共聚物G-BD作为印花浆料黏合剂,可使得到的高强耐磨阻燃织物水洗20次后变色牢度级数仍保持在2级以上。     

Performance of Error Back Propagation vis-à-vis Radial Basis Function Neural Network: Part II: Reverse Engineering of Woven Fabrics

Abstract

This paper describes the application of an artificial neural network approach to engineer the design of woven wool and wool blended suiting fabric, to be used by the weavers. Two neural network models based on error back propagation and radial basis function algorithms are used for ascertaining fabric constructional parameters such as fibre composition, yarn density, yarn tex, weave, yarn crimp and yarn twist to obtain desired low stress mechanical properties and other properties such as breaking strength and extension, bending rigidity, shear rigidity and tear strength of the suiting fabric. Of the two networks, radial basis function network is again found to be fast to train and easier to design than back propagation network. Evaluation of both the models for each fabric property specification shows good agreement between predicted and generally accepted fabric, yarn structure–property relationships.     

织物组织和纱线捻向对透孔效果的影响

研究透孔织物中组织搭配和纱线捻向配置对透孔大小的影响.按平纹组织将透孔组织分为单起平纹透孔和双起平纹透孔,通过对织物形成过程中纱线的受力进行分析,认为在双起平纹透孔中纱线额外获得S捻,使S捻纱加捻,而使Z捻纱解捻,从而造成了纱线直径的变化,导致透孔有大有小.提出在进行透孔织物设计和生产时组织搭配方式和捻向配置方式,并以试织小样进行了验证.     

纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系

为从织物自身组织结构方面优化纯棉织物的折皱性,首先设计织物组织结构参数并制备织物,利用数字式织物折皱弹性仪测得织物的折皱回复角。在此基础上,建立纯棉织物经、纬向和总折皱回复角与织物组织结构参数(包括经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度、经纬向密度)之间的线性回归方程;同时分析织物折皱回复角与各组织结构参数间的相关性。结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角实测值绝对误差不超过0.61°,回归方程具有较高的实用性;经纬纱捻度、线密度对纯棉织物的折皱回复性影响最大,可通过提高经纬纱捻度、降低经纬纱线密度来改善纯棉织物的抗皱性。     

涤粘仿毛织物组织参数因子与风格的数学关系

在涤粘仿毛织物风格的因子分析过程中,将FAST织物风格仪测试的26个物理力学性能指标按照因子的重要程度分为4类:第1类风格分别为ST、T100R、HE.2、RS.1、E100.2、HE.1、F.1、F.2;第2类风格分别为E100.1、A.1、T2R、T2、E20.2、B.2、E20.1、T100;第3类风格分别为B.1、G、A.2、E5.1、STR、C.1、E5.2、C.2;第4类风格分别为EB5、RS.2。然后将织物的组织参数按照因子分为3类:第1类分别为纬纱缩率、经纱缩率、经纱捻度;第2类分别为织物经密、纬纱线密度、纬纱捻度;第3类分别为织物纬密、织物面密度及经纱线密度。通过经织物风格及组织参数的因子分析,探讨了各个因子对于织物风格影响的重要程度。     

用变截面纱线模型模拟平纹织物的研究

为了逼真模拟平纹织物,采用变化尺寸大小的锯齿形椭圆截面的纱线模型,结合B样条曲面造型技术,利用Peirce机织物模型构造平纹织物的几何立体结构.根据VC程序运行结果来看,该纱线模型结合捻度结构用于模拟平纹织物的效果逼真.     

多层机织物的组织设计

为有效快速地获得多层接结机织物的设计方法,对多层机织物组织进行研究与分析,找出多层机织物纱线之间的交织规律和表达方法,提出了子组织概念。用这种方法先画出子组织,然后能直接画出多层织物的组织图。在组织图基础上,可较容易进行各种不同形式的接结,得到不同效果的纺织增加复合材料预制件,既省时也具有较高准确性。这种方法比较适合用计算机表达,从而为CAD设计多层机织物提供了方便。     

基于芦山纱特征的三绞三罗织物性能分析及试织

芦山纱织物表面均匀分布稳定清晰的纱孔,呈现若隐若现的亮点而独具特色。文章对芦山纱独特的二绞二罗组织的结构进行了分析,研究了织物表面的细小纱孔和独特亮点等特征,并基于芦山纱以基础组织为地、罗组织为花的组织特征,进一步采用棉纱作经纬原料,以变化斜纹组织为地组织,三绞三罗组织为提花组织,研制了三绞三罗织物。根据不同经纬线密度的配置试织试样,对其进行织物悬垂性、折皱回复性、拉伸性能的测试。结果表明,经纬原料线密度配置与罗组织分布对织物的抗折皱性和拉伸强力具有一定的影响。     

单向导湿机织物结构设计

为从机织物结构参数设计的角度开发具有良好单向导湿性能的机织物,构建了性能优异的导湿梯度结构模型,根据结构模型,设计试织了表里层不同松紧组织,表里层不同接结方式、不同原料的9 种织物,通过对9 种织物吸湿、导湿性能的测试和多项综合值计算分析发现：在其他规格相同情况下,表里层采用松、紧组织孔隙呈梯度 结构的织物导湿性能好;液态水的传递效果与接结点的分布和接结形式有关,接结点数目的增加有利于表里层之间的水传递。表里层经纱为木棉/ 棉混纺纱,纬纱为吸湿透气涤纶（Coolmax）纱线,且Coolmax 纬纱采用上下联合接结法,表紧里松的组织配置织物单向导湿性能最好,验证了单向导湿结构模型的正确性。     

Surface roughness properties of wool woven fabrics after abrasion

Effects of abrasion on surface roughness properties together with appearance of woven wool fabrics have been investigated. The effects of weft yarn count, weft yarn density, and weave pattern on fabric surface roughness after abrasion were researched. Surface roughness values of control fabric (not abraded) and abraded fabrics after four different abrasion cycles were discussed according to different fabric constructional parameters. It was observed that the greatest decreases in surface roughness values after abrasion were observed in loose fabric structures which had the highest initial fabric surface roughness values (coarse yarn, low yarn density, and low yarn intersection). The results showed that change of roughness properties of wool fabric surfaces after abrasion depends on the initial surface roughness values and on the amount of contact area of fabrics based on the fabric constructional parameters.     

Properties research of doubling and twisting yarn fabric of wool/bamboo charcoal filament北大核心

The experimental material uses doubling and twisting yarn worsted fabric of wool and bamboo charcoal filament attached to new green environmental fiber. It selects tensile property, antiwrinkle performance, moisture permeability and UV protection performance in particular. The result is all new products have better tensile property and moisture permeability compared with wool and bamboo charcoal filament interlacing fabric. Moisture permeability of doubling and twisting yarn fabric increases and UV protection performance falls off gradually when weight and weave is equation of all fabric. It also gets No. 1 sample has optimal performance in four properties when the content of bamboo charcoal filament is 29.5% ,the twist is 58.5 twist/10 cm, the weave is plain, the square meter gram weight is 144 g/m2 by product performance rank method.     

A new approach to de‐curling force of single jersey weft‐knitted fabric

In this work, the curling behavior of cotton single jersey weft‐knitted fabric was studied using a new non‐destructive test method. Eighteen series of dry‐relaxed weft‐knitted fabric samples were produced with three different yarn twist levels (724.5 tpm, 807 tpm, and 890 tpm), two yarn twist directions (Z and S), and three different loop lengths (2.7 mm, 2.85 mm, and 3.2 mm). Curling behavior was characterized in terms of curling distance (CD), de‐curling force, and de‐curling energy. The results show that weft‐knitted fabric samples with a lower loop length and higher yarn twist level exhibited higher de‐curling force and de‐curling energy. It is indicated that the de‐curling force of weft‐knitted fabric samples produced from the Z‐twist cotton ring‐spun yarn is higher than that of the samples produced from the S‐twist cotton ring‐spun yarn. The regression analysis results also illustrate that de‐curling force and de‐curling energy are non‐linearly correlated with edge CD, and variation trends follow polynomial equations. The result of this research suggests that the curling behavior of weft‐knitted fabric can be predicted in terms of de‐curling properties.     

Investigating the effect of material and weave design on comfort properties of bilayer-woven fabrics

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.     

棉与木代尔、竹浆纤维混纺织物的设计与开发

采用棉与木代尔、竹浆纤维混纺纱,设计9种不同织物组织,其服用性能有很大差异。对9种不同组织织物的上机规格参数及生产工艺进行计算,再在小样机上试织,分析生产技术要点,总结出织物性能优选方案,为纺织企业进行此类织物的开发提供了参考依据。     

基于系统聚类法的多组分混纺织物风格分析

采用PTT、PLA、Cooldry、三角异形涤纶丝、棉和亚麻等原料,按其不同比例混纺试制了A、B、C、D和E五个系列13种织物。采用FAST织物风格仪测试触觉风格的性能指标,运用系统聚类法对对测试结果进行聚类分析,探讨纱线线密度、纤维成分及组织结构与织物风格特性之间的关系。结果表明：在一定范围内,亚麻纤维替代棉纤维可以不影响织物风格;组织结构的较大差异会引起织物风格的不同,而较相似的组织结构对织物风格的影响相对较小;纱线线密度、纤维成分对织物风格存在一定的影响。     

Cross‐sectional shapes of the yarn in cotton gray woven fabric

This experimental work looks into the geometry of the yarn cross‐section at the weaving and relaxed stages using microscopic and digital image processing techniques. A total of 54 plain‐weave cotton fabric samples (different in the yarn twist and the fabric density) were produced and the cross‐sectional shapes of the wefts at the early stage of weaving (in which the wefts were also under tension by full‐width temples) and at the relaxed state were compared with the ideal circular shape. The measurements of the samples showed that the cross‐sectional shapes of the yarns at the early stage of weaving are circular, elliptical or a combination of two circles or an asymmetric elliptical. Moreover, the effect of the fabric tightness on the yarn cross‐sectional shape and dimension was negligible. The measurements of the cross‐sectional dimensions of the relaxed fabric (released from weaving tension) showed an increase in the area occupied by the yarn inside the fabric and did not follow the Peirce standard model. The measurement and the comparison showed that the cross‐sections of the yarns inside the woven fabric could be categorized into five different shapes, namely; circular (C), elliptical (E), sharp symmetrical amygdaloidal (SSA), asymmetrical amygdaloidal (AA) and sharp asymmetrical amygdaloidal (SAA), but the number of each group depends upon the yarn properties and the fabric structures. The fabrics with the highest density and the highest twisted yarns had a circular cross‐sectional shape, whereas the fabrics with the lowest fabric density and the lowest twisted yarns had the most flattened yarn cross‐sections in the form of sharp symmetrical or asymmetrical amygdaloidal shapes.     

毛精纺面料成形性与纬纱结构参数的关系

以三群判别法为基础,通过自制毛精纺面料样本,求取其基本力学指标、成形性判别值和指标权重等数值,得出面料成形性变化程度（矢量模）和方向（矢量方向）,探讨面料成形性动态变化趋势和纬纱结构参数的关系。通过研究得出：当纬纱细度变化量相同时,面料成形性变化矢量模相同,但其意义并不相同;在所采用的纬纱捻系数100～160范围内,一旦捻系数变化量固定不变,其对应样本之间的成形性矢量模差异不变,矢量方向变化由各力学指标权重分配综合确定。验证结果表明：得出的成形性变化矢量模、矢量方向与纬纱结构参数关系式,在一定范围内能较好地反映面料成形性与纬纱结构参数之间的变化关系,可为面料成形性设计提供理论参考。     

薄型精纺毛织物刚柔性与织物结构参数的关系

以14种精纺薄型毛织物为例,采用斜面悬臂法测定织物的经向和纬向抗弯长度,根据试验数据分析原料和织物组织对织物刚柔性的影响,并运用Origin7.0分析纱线的捻度、线密度,织物的厚度、经密和纬密与织物刚柔性的关系。分析得出:织物刚柔性与构成织物原料的性能、纱线的结构和织物结构有很大的关系。原料的初始模量越小,织物的柔软度越好;纱线的捻度越大,织物的柔软度越差,纱线的线密度越大,织物呈现刚性;平纹组织的刚性大于斜纹组织,织物越厚,织物越呈现刚性,在其他参数相同的情况下,织物经、纬密增加时,织物的抗弯长度增大,织物越呈现刚性。