“买手时代”来了：有点忽悠了吧

的确,服装业的事,不是小事,人人都要穿衣,所以市场很大.可一场“2014中国石狮纺织服装买手汇”竞引来不少专家莫名地兴奋,大谈中国服装业“买手时代”来了,“如果石狮的买手汇模式能够在全国其他产业集群地进行复制,中国服装业的‘买手时代’就为时不远了.”更有媒体跟风追捧,说什么“买手风潮来袭,中国是否做好了准备？”     

时尚买手机制与我国服装产业链的融合

时尚买手机制是时尚产业驱动力之一。文章分析了买手服务于服装产业的模式,探讨了买手机制与我国服装产业链融合的形式与买手职业人员的专业培养。     

英国的时尚买手职业教育初探

通过分析英国目前的职业教育对时尚买手职业素质与专业素质方面的培养特色,其身临其境的实战式实训教学,以及与职业导向紧密结合的课程设置,提出学习英国先进的时尚买手职业教育理念,拓展我国的时尚买手培养空间,以满足这一职业快速增长的市场需求。     

以时尚买手职业为向导的服装买手课程群设置初探

通过对国内外相关服装品牌买手岗位职业能力的分析,初步界定时尚买手的职业素质和技能;以时尚买手职业为导向,结合目前买手课程的教学现状,探讨如何合理设置服装设计专业买手相关课程群,从而提高学生的综合素质和就业能力,实现教学与就业无缝对接。     

当代中国服装设计师买手店转型策略分析

中国服装设计师买手店虽起步较晚,但发展迅猛。近年来在新零售商业模式与消费升级的影响下,开始承受各种新的压力。本文通过调研我国服装设计师买手店现状,剖析设计师与买手店的深层关系,分析买手模式迭代与演化规律,提出如何掌握适合新时代的买手运营逻辑,重塑买手核心商业价值,为我国时尚产业稳定发展提供参考。     

品牌集成店的买手

当下时尚行业里较为流行一种时髦的职业——买手。买手之所以称之为时髦的职业,归功于其职业的特殊性与对时尚见解的专业性。买手的出现,备受圈内人士的追捧,甚至有不少职场新人将买手列入自己的职业规划中。由此可见,买手在时尚圈中的分量。买手的出现,催生了不少“品牌集成店“的时尚商品经营模式,且“品牌集成店”更是迎合了更多追求个性和时尚的消费者,创造了不少行业标杆,如“IT”的品牌集成店等等。有不少企业,投资商看到”品牌集成店”的风光后,也纷纷想要踏入这个领域,足见“品牌集成店”模式的商业前景有多么吸引入。     

买手，眼镜企业是否需要？

在欧美国家，有一种称谓叫“Buyer”，就是我们通常说的“买手”。按照国际上通行的说法，买手是指往返于世界各地，时时关注最新的流行信息，手中掌握着大批订单，不停地与供应商联系，组织商品进入市场，满足消费者不同需求的人。据了解，职业买手在国外已经有50年的历史，在中国这一行才刚起步，目前只是在服装生产密集的长江三角洲及珠江三角洲地带，偶尔发现买手们活跃的身影。在国内其他区域还比较少见。但专家却乐观地预测：随着国际贸易的日益成熟与频繁，职业买手市场将越来越呈现出无限增长的潜力。面对买手机制这一在中国还比较“新兴”的模式，国内很多服装品牌正蠢蠢欲试。那么，眼镜产品（特别是镜架和太阳镜）在向时尚化发展的征途中，眼镜制造企业和大型零售商是否也会需要买手呢？     

服装买手:左手设计右手市场

服装买手对于中国的服装界来说,已经不陌生了.他们有敏锐的嗅觉和三寸不烂之舌,常常往返于世界各地,时时关注着各种信息,手中掌握着大量订单,不停地与供应商讨价还价,顾客能买到什么东西,往往是由他们来决定的.这个时尚职业开始引起更多人的关注.     

中韩纺织服装贸易现状分析

近年来，中韩服装业交流日益频繁，韩国时尚对中国服装业影响很大。中韩两国在纺织服装领域的双边贸易形成互补，中国面料市场很大，中低端面料在中国都可以生产，而韩国面料的优势在于时尚感强、流行速度快、功能性面料开发能力强。[编者按]     

行业

2014中国（石狮）纺织服装买手汇盛大开幕 倍受关注的2014中国（石狮）纺织服装买手汇于5月28日在石狮星期YI服饰创意博览园盛大开幕。为期三天的第2014中国（石狮）纺织服装买手汇,以“聚合产品,蝶变狮城”为主题,引进汇聚具备产品研发能力资源,延续和丰富中国服装成衣采购基地内涵,以打造石狮“中国趋势成衣采购之都”和“中国时尚精品制造之都”为目标,是石狮打造中国成衣采购基地落实东方米兰计划的又一次创举。     

时尚买手,等待点燃的星星之火

在中国内地城市,"时尚买手"虽还比较鲜见,但对于中国的服装行业来说,买手模式的经营思想正在国内悄然升起,尤其在服装制作生产密集的长江三角洲及珠江三角洲地带,且越来越活跃。然而,"国内服饰企业目前只算得上是熟悉买手这一个新的职业,但是对买手的具体工作职能并不太清楚。"国内服装品牌买手理论的重要创始人和实践者之一王士如根据自己多年的观察认为,国外的买手是服装界非常重要的发展动力,而中国的买手更像是服装界可有可无的点缀。买手究竟是噱头,还是一个能促进产业格局健康发展的新生力量?中国的买手现状又是如何呢?     

买手在国内服装企业中的地位与职责研究

通过比较国内买手的几种不同存在形式,针对不同类型的买手,分析其在服装产业运营中的地位及相应职责,并以品牌买手为例,分析品牌买手在企业内部的地位、与其他部门人员的关系以及其主要职责.     

An investigation into retail buying roles and responsibilities for own-label clothing: a multiple case-study

The purpose of this research is to investigate own-label buyers’ roles and responsibilities within the context of fashion retailing in the UK, as distinct from the roles of buyers of branded merchandise supplied by other companies. The elements of the fashion retail buying role are drawn together into a framework to offer academics and retailers a perspective on the ways in which theories on buying processes relate to practice. It concludes that buying own-label fashion products is largely similar to buying branded merchandise, with one of the main exceptions being in the area of new product development. Retail merchandisers were found to play a significant role within the buying function, yet there was a relative lack of collaboration between buyers and marketers within the sample.     

Gutermann:不仅仅是一根缝纫线

CHIC2010尘埃落定,博览会上新鲜热辣的买手话题却热度不减。从消费者层面来看,买手可能仍然新鲜而神秘。而在服装行业的专业层面,买手风潮早已波涛暗涌,无论是设计师、服装品牌、商业渠道,都已经感受到它的不可阻挡的威力,一些走在前面的人已经开始付诸行动,CHIC2010上的首届中国服装买手论坛、展馆里杰施品牌针对买手的个人高端、BOSIDENG VOGUE买手系列,不过是冰山一角。     

第十七届东京国际服装展览会（IFF）圆满闭幕

由日本织研新闻社主办的东京国际时尚展览（International Fashion Fair）于1月25日在东京Bigsight展览馆顺利落下帷幕。此次的IFF展览会已经是第17届,这个日本最大规模的服装展会在各方的努力下再次扩大了规模,并第一次与同期举办的海外品牌展（TERROIR）整合为一体,来自21个国家和地区的817家参展商（除日本本土参展商之外还包括美国、英国、加拿大、法国、意大利、荷兰、西班牙、丹麦、芬兰、瑞典、希腊、葡萄牙、波兰、立陶宛、菲律宾、土耳其、中国、印度、韩国、香港）参展。如此豪华的阵容使之当之无愧地成为了日本最大规模的时尚展览.     

Factors that affect and motivate the purchase of quality-labelled beef in Spain

The aim of the present study was to identify the factors that affect and motivate the purchase of quality-labelled beef in Spain. For this purpose a total of 364 surveys were carried out on buyers of beef in three Spanish cities. The sample was divided into three groups of buyers according to the frequency with which they buy beef with a quality label. A logistic regression analysis was used to estimate the differences between groups. The results showed the importance of the production region as a quality aspect. In general terms, variables such as income level and lifestyles would seem to be the variables that enable us to discriminate between quality-labelled beef buyers and non-buyers, whereas beef purchasing habits, a greater appreciation of production systems and attitudes towards quality-labelled beef, are the variables that may explain the differences that exist between regular and occasional quality-labelled beef buyers.     

Factors that affect and motivate the purchase of quality-labelled beef in Spain

The aim of the present study was to identify the factors that affect and motivate the purchase of quality-labelled beef in Spain. For this purpose a total of 364 surveys were carried out on buyers of beef in three Spanish cities. The sample was divided into three groups of buyers according to the frequency with which they buy beef with a quality label. A logistic regression analysis was used to estimate the differences between groups. The results showed the importance of the production region as a quality aspect. In general terms, variables such as income level and lifestyles would seem to be the variables that enable us to discriminate between quality-labelled beef buyers and non-buyers, whereas beef purchasing habits, a greater appreciation of production systems and attitudes towards quality-labelled beef, are the variables that may explain the differences that exist between regular and occasional quality-labelled beef buyers.     

Variables affecting the propensity to buy branded beef among groups of Australian beef buyers

Australian beef consumers have different preferences given their characteristics and the effect on expected quality of cues related to health, production process and eating experience. Beef brands using Meat Standards Australia (MSA) grades can help to signal quality and reduce consumers' uncertainty when shopping. The objective of this study is to identify the characteristics of beef buyers and their perceptions about product attributes that affect the propensity to buy branded beef. Binary logistic models were applied identifying differences between all respondents and the potential target market, including buyers in medium to high income segments, and between buyers in the target market who would buy branded beef for taste and health reasons. Variables increasing the propensity to buy branded beef include previous experience, appreciation for branded cuts and concern about quality more than size. Finally, variations in preferences for marbling and cut were found between buyers who would buy branded beef for taste and health reasons.     

Factors associated with the purchase of designation of origin lamb meat

As in other products, quality labels that designate the origin of lamb meat are increasingly used by consumers as a cue for inferring the quality of the meat. The aim of the present paper is to identify those factors that most affect the purchase of lamb with an origin quality label. For this purpose a total of 371 questionnaires were carried out in the region of Aragón located in the north east of Spain. This region produces 48.5% of the total amount of lamb meat with a Spanish protected geographical indication, whilst it also has the country’s greatest per capita consumption (6.8 kg/person/year). To identify the most determining factors a logistic regression analysis was performed between three groups of buyers, characterised by their degree of loyalty towards purchasing origin quality-labelled lamb. The results show that those buyers who are less loyal to the label pay less attention to the origin of the meat when forming quality expectations at the time of purchase, whilst these are the buyers that place greatest importance on animal feeding as an aspect affecting the final quality of lamb meat. The buyers that are very loyal to the quality label associate this label with a product that offers greater guarantees and is healthier. Lamb meat buyers with medium loyalty to quality labels, consider quality-labelled lamb meat has better intrinsic attributes.