Effect of cationic charge and hydrophobic index of cellulose‐based polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for hair

In this work, the effects of a new class of polymers generally used in hair and skin cleansing products, the SoftCAT (SofCAT SL and SoftCAT SX), on the dye uptake on the hair fibre and the fading effects has been studied. These polymers, based on quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, are cationic products that differ in viscosity, hydrophobic substitution index (HS) and/or cationic substitution (CS, % N). UV–Vis spectroscopy has been used to analyse the extracted dyes from the hair cuticle and the cortex. The results indicate that the presence of polymers in the dye bath improve both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti‐fading effect during the washing cycles. This phenomenon is postulated to be attributable to the polymers hydrophobically bonding with the dyes and so facilitating their increased penetration into the hair.     

Solution behaviour of new cationic surfactants derived from Guerbet alcohols and their use in hair conditioners

The solution behaviour of new cationic surfactants, synthesized by using long-chain Guerbet alcohols, in water was investigated by a polarizing microscopic technique, differential scanning calorimetry, and electric conductivity measurements. These surfactants show the gel–liquid crystalline phase transition to be lower than 0°C and form lamellar liquid crystals even in cold water and at low concentrations of surfactants. The sorption of cationic surfactants from aqueous solutions onto hair was determined as a function of temperature. The effect of adsorbed cationic surfactants on the critical surface tension and kinetic frictional coefficients of hair surface have been investigated. These surface characteristics of hair treated with quaternary ammonium compounds derived from Guerbet alcohols were found to be significantly improved. These results can be explained by the high ability of sorption onto hair. Hair rinses and conditioners having excellent ease of combing or brushing for wet and dry hair can be formulated by the application of these cationic surfactants.     

Acetylene-derived polymers and their applications in hair and skin care

Since the introduction over 30 years ago of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the first synthetic hairspray resin, acetylene-derived polymers have found wide and increasing applications in the cosmetics and toiletries industry. This review covers the two main classes of acetylenic polymers. In the first class, in which the chemistry may be traced back to reaction of acetylene with formaldehyde, are included PVP homopolymers and copolymers of VP with vinyl acetate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactam and styrene. In the second class, stemming from reaction of acetylene with methanol, are the poly (vinyl methyl ether/maleic acid) monoester resins.     

Study of the optical properties of human hair

The optical properties of human hair were studied by photogoniometry. Starting from an optical model of hair, we developed a computerized method of decomposition of the goniophotometric curve. From our analysis we obtained structural parameters of the hair surface, average scale angle and cosmetic parameters like lustre and pigmentation. This method gave us new results in the following areas:
— the effects of bleaching on scale and internally reflected light;
— the study, from root to tip, of surface damage and hair pigmentation;
— the effects of stretching the hair on scale angle and lustre;
— the effects of sebum and dust on hair lustre.     

Silicones: use of substantive properties on skin and hair

Silicones have been incorporated in personal care products since the 1950s. Initially used in skin care products, and more recently in hair care applications, silicones are recognized for their lubricating properties and for the characteristic soft smooth feel they impart. With recent advances in silicone technology, these fluids can also provide substantivity and durability.
Resinous silicones such as trimethylsiloxysilicate act as effective substantivity additives when combined with dimethyl silicone in skin care formulations. In tests evaluating the number of wash cycles required to penetrate a silicone barrier, resistance to removal increases markedly as the proportion of resinous silicone to dimethyl silicone is increased. This improvement is related directly to decreased solubility of the resin.     

Grey hair: clinical investigation into changes in hair fibres with loss of pigmentation in a photoprotected population

Loss of pigmentation in hair fibres is one of the most obvious phenotypic changes with ageing and has been a topic of increasing interest in the study of follicle biology. The onset of greying brings cosmetic complaints that grey fibres are wild or difficult to manage. Of course, these perceptions may be the consequence of visual obviousness rather than underlying physical or chemical differences. Although several studies have compared pigmented and unpigmented fibres, few have tried to control genetic and ethnic difference as well as extrinsic factors such as photoexposure and chemical treatment. We have recruited subjects with salt-and-pepper hair from a population of Old Order Mennonites who, for cultural reasons, are not only prohibited from chemically treating their hair but also limit their exposure to sunlight. Hair samples were examined for elemental composition, surface energy, Young's modulus, break stress, bending modulus, shear modulus and water sorption/desorption isotherm. The parameters were evaluated statistically for global differences, individual differences and typical individual differences. Consistent with previous published literature, few global differences were found between pigmented and unpigmented hair across the population. We do find that many individual subjects had differences between pigmented and unpigmented fibres. These differences tend to be more pronounced in bulk than in surface properties. The small differences in mechanical properties and moisture uptake and loss lend support to the perception by consumers that grey hair is wilder, drier and less manageable.     

Application of a tensile-strength test method to the evaluation of hydrating hair products

The usual methods applied to studying the hydration state of hair (e.g. gravimetry, microscopy, evaporimetry) are mostly concerned with a limited area of the fibre. Consequently, the results obtained do not reflect the variability of the physicochemical properties of the whole fibre. Moreover, there are not many experimental methods to evaluate the hydrating power of hair care products in the literature. This study proposes a new method to measure the hydration state of treated or untreated hair by using a tensile strength test. A graphic analysis of tensile strength variation as a function of relative humidity after hair treatment allows the calculation of three hydration indexes: protection index, instant hydration index and permanent hydration index. This technique can give useful information on the behaviour of hair versus relative humidity and on the different hydrating mechanisms exhibited by hair care products.     

含聚氧乙烯链季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂对阴离子染料染色的影响

选择了几种聚氧乙烯型季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂，探讨了这些表面活性剂与酸性染料的相互作用以及对染料染色性能的影响.结果表明，含聚氧乙烯链阳离子表面活性剂能降低酸性染料的初始上染速率，并具有较好的移染性，可开发为匀染剂.为新型表面活性剂的应用和新型染色助剂的开发提供了理论依据。     

Diffusion and distribution of element-labelled surfactants in human hair

To directly follow the diffusion process of cosmetically relevant agents into human hair, a specific methodological approach is presented and elucidated for selected surfactants. For this, practically relevant anionic and cationic surfactants were synthesized with a chlorine atom at the end of their alkyl chain. The property changes of the surfactants through the modification are corresponding to an extension of the alkyl chain by about two methylene groups, thus representing a moderate increase of hydrophobicity. After the application of a modified surfactant to hair, it can be localized and quantified through its chlorine atom in cross-sections by scanning electron microscopy combined with micro X-ray fluorescence analysis. The determination of the diffusion coefficient D is realized through the application of the Matano-equation to element intensity profiles. Values for D vary within the chosen range of pH and temperature between 10(-14) and 10(-16) m(2) s(-1). The diffusion coefficients for the anionic surfactants increase with decreasing pH and increasing temperature, The temperature dependence follows in all cases the Arrhenius relationship with activation energies E(A) of 50-100 kJ mol(-1), which decrease with pH. The pH-related effects, with comparable values for D and E(A), are opposite for the cationic surfactant. These observations are consistently interpreted on the basis of ionic and hydrophobic interactions in hair.     

Rheological characterization of hair shampoo in the presence of dead sea salt

In Jordan, a growing industry has been established to produce different types of Dead Sea (DS) cosmetics that have DS salt (contains mainly NaCl, KCl, and MgCl(2)) in their formulas. In this work, the effect of DS salt on the rheology of hair shampoo containing the sodium lauryl ether sulfate as a main active matter was studied. The effects of DS salt and active matter concentration, and the temperature and time of salt mixing, on the rheological properties of hair shampoo were investigated. The salt-free shampoo showed a Newtonian behavior at 'low active matter' (LAM) and shear thinning at 'high active matter' (HAM). The presence of DS salt changed the rheological behavior of LAM shampoo from Newtonian (for the salt-free shampoo) to shear thinning. On the other hand, the behavior of HAM shampoo switched from shear thinning to Newtonian behavior in the presence of high concentration of DS salt. The addition of DS salt increased the apparent viscosity of shampoo to reach a maximum value that corresponded to a salt concentration of 1.5 wt.%. Further addition of DS salt led to a decrease in the shampoo viscosity to reach a value less than that of the salt-free sample at high salt concentration. Changing the mixing temperature (25-45 degrees C) and mixing time (15-120 min) of DS salt with shampoo has no significant influence on the rheological behavior. However, the mixing process increased the apparent viscosity of salt-free shampoo. The power law model fitted well the flow curves of hair shampoo with and without DS salt.     

拉伸细化牦牛毛的表面性能与染色性

拉伸细化后牦牛毛表观形态及内部结构均发生变化,必将影响细化后纤维的表面性能与染色性.实验结果表明:纤维拉伸细化后接触角减小,吸湿性增加.细化后纤维的染色性能更加优异,细化毛平衡上染率明显高于原毛,随拉伸率增加,纤维上染速率加快,平衡上染率提高,且拉伸细化处理可以降低牦牛毛的染色温度.     

Simple and rapid analytical method for the simultaneous determination of cetrimonium chloride and alkyl alcohols in hair conditioners

A simple method for the simultaneous determination of a cationic surfactant (cetrimonium chloride) and four non-ionic surfactants (1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol and 1-eicosanol) has been developed. Direct extraction of the analytes from the sample with methanol and a subsequent separation using reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with refractive index detection are the steps followed in the procedure. The column used was a Luna C18 and the mobile phase consisted of a 0.1 M KClO₄ solution prepared on a 95:5 mixture of methanol and water. This solution was adjusted to pH 2.8 with phosphoric acid. Recoveries close to 100% were obtained in spiked commercial hair conditioner samples for the surfactants assayed using this method. Limits of detection were 10.4, 16.7 and 22.9 mg kg⁻¹ of cetrimonium chloride, 1-hexadecanol, 1-hexadecanol and 1-1-octadecanol respectively. The methodology was successfully applied to nine commercial hair conditioners of several types and different brands. All hair conditioners but one contained at least two of the surfactants included in this study.     

Objective emotional assessment of tactile hair properties and their modulation by different product worlds

Tactile properties of cosmetic products constitute weak stimuli and thus can be expected to be easily modified by mental images. In order to enhance an intended positive-emotion-inducing effect of such a product, its experience can be embedded in a certain 'world' that generates a positive emotional imagination. The present study investigated such an influence in 12 males and 12 females, half of each being laymen and experts in sensory assessment. Two product worlds (emotional and technical) and three different hair samples, two of them treated with different shampoos and an untreated one as control, were presented to each subject in counter-balanced order of all six combinations. An objective emotional assessment using a psychophysiological technique developed in an earlier study was applied and compared with a traditional sensory assessment. Among the physiological measures, peripheral blood volume and facial muscular activity were the most sensitive in revealing effects of and interactions between the product worlds and hair samples. A multivariate evaluation of the physiological data revealed three discriminant functions that explained 78.4% of the total variance and enabled a re-classification considerably better than chance. The first discriminant function clearly separated the treated from the untreated hair samples which was not possible by subjective ratings or traditional sensory assessment. The two other discriminant functions comprised a hedonistic and a product world factor. The emotional product world exerted the largest influence in case of the weakest tactile differences between the hair samples, and its influence was larger on laymen than on experts. Gender effects were most prominent in the subjective domain. In conclusion, multivariate psychophysiological methodology is superior to traditional sensory assessment in revealing subtle differences in the tactile perception of cosmetic products.     

Recent trends in the formulation of permanent waving products for hair

Current trends in the formulation of permanent waving products for hair are discussed in light of recently reported findings on the reactivity of disulphide bond in the hair keratin and theories on the mechanism of permanent waving. Effectiveness of protein and other additives is discussed in detail. Nouvelles tendences dans la formulation des produits pour permanente     

Microbial degradation of cellulose polymers used in cosmetics and toiletries

Cellulose polymers which are commonly found in cosmetics can act as potential targets for microbial attack and sometimes support extensive growth under suitable conditions. As a result, cellulosic substances can be converted from a stiff gel into a running liquid, thereby rendering the cosmetic unfit for use.
To provide an understanding of the biodeterioration of cellulose in cosmetics, this paper reviews the structure of cellulose, mechanism of enzyme degradation and effects of structural properties of cellulose on the rate of hydrolysis. At least three different types of enzymes (exo-β-1, 4-glucanase, endo-β-1,4-glucanase and β-glucosidase) are involved in the degradation of crystalline cellulose. Enzyme production by three fungi belonging to the genera Aspergillus, Fusarium and Penicillium is described.
Dégradation microbienne des polymers de cellulose utilisés dans les produits cosmétiques et de toilette     

Bacteriological contamination of products used for skin care in babies

Two hundred and thirty-two products used in the skin care of babies were examined for bacterial contamination. Contamination rates were compared between unused samples collected from homes, those used in the home, and those used in the maternity wards of a local hospital. Products used and unused, originating from the home had a low incidence of contamination and small bacterial populations. One product used in hospital was found to be susceptible to contamination; several samples were contaminated with Gram-negative rods. The significance of these contaminants in products used on babies is discussed and proposals are put forward for avoiding in-use contamination.
Contamination bactérienne des produits utilisés pour les soin de la peau des bébés     

纳米化学改性处理对细绵羊毛主要性能的影响

主要研究改性前后细绵羊毛的性能差异。经过测试,发现改性后的细绵羊毛与改性前相比,细度、单纤强力、平均卷曲弹性率、表面摩擦性能、抗菌性等相关性能有较大改善,单纤维伸长率、平均卷曲度等性能指标反而比改性前更差。     

Surface characterization of human hair by atomic force microscopy in the imaging and F-d modes

Surface structure and surface mechanical properties of human hair have been characterized by atomic force microscopy in the imaging mode and by force vs. distance, F-d, analysis. The effects of treatment by commercial conditioner/shampoo or by aqueous exposure have been investigated. The cuticular structure has been imaged at medium resolution; longitudinal striations with lateral spacings of 150-350 nm and vertical corrugations in the range 2-8 nm were observed at higher resolution. The features are similar to those observed for untreated wool fibre. Both adventitious debris/contamination and residues from cosmetic treatment can be imaged with resolution in the low-nanometre range. Removal of the cuticular surface layer from treatment with alkali solution, and subsequent imaging, revealed a fibrous substructure. F-d analysis of the surface is a rich source of spatially resolved mechanical and chemical information. Surface stiffness, and an equivalent Young's Modulus, E, can be inferred from the shape of the 'approach' tip-to-surface contact curve. A value of E of approximately 10 MPa was obtained for untreated hair. During aqueous exposure for 1 h the stiffness and modulus decreased by approximately a factor of 10. The discontinuity seen at 'lift-off' during the retract half-cycle of F-d analysis represents a measure of tip-to-surface adhesion. Adhesion decreased during aqueous exposure and was below the level of detectability after 1 h. Likewise, treatment by conditioner had the effect of lowering adhesion. High resolution F-d data revealed features that are consistent with the presence of a thin and readily compressible surface layer, probably analogous to the surface lipid layer on untreated wool fibre.