植物提取物延缓皮肤光老化作用的研究进展

紫外线是导致皮肤光老化的主要因素,寻找和开发能够有效防护皮肤老化的天然产物已被广泛重视。本文从紫外线对皮肤的损伤以及光老化发生的机理入手,通过吸收紫外线、抗皮肤光氧化、调节细胞外基质合成与降解、抑制色素沉着、缓解皮肤炎症、调节细胞自噬等多种途径,对不同来源的植物提取物及其特征化合物延缓皮肤光老化的作用进行了归纳分析,以期为天然产物在功能性化妆品的开发和应用提供参考。     

Effect of Artocarpus communis Extract on UVB Irradiation-Induced Oxidative Stress and Inflammation in Hairless Mice

Administration of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents is an effective strategy for preventing ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced skin damage. Artocarpus communis possesses several pharmacological activities, such as antioxidant, anticancer and anti-inflammation. However, the photoprotective activity of methanol extract of A. communis heartwood (ACM) in ultraviolet irradiation-induced skin damage has not yet been investigated. The present study was performed using ultraviolet absorption, histopathological observation, antioxidant and anti-inflammation assays to elucidate the mechanism of the photoprotective activity of ACM. Our results indicated that ACM displayed a UVA and UVB absorption effect and then effectively decreased scaly skin, epidermis thickness and sunburn cells during ultraviolet irradiation in hairless mice. ACM not only decreased ultraviolet irradiation-mediated oxidative stress, including lowering the overproduction of reactive oxygen species and lipid peroxidation (p < 0.05), but also reduced the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines, including tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and interleukin 1β. Additionally, ACM can decrease the synthesis of cytosolic phospholipase A2, cyclooxygenase, inducible nitric oxide synthase and vascular cell adhesion molecular-1 via inhibiting TNF-α-independent pathways (p < 0.05) in UVB-mediated inflammation and formation of sunburn cells. Consequently, we concluded that ACM extract has a photoprotective effect against UVB-induced oxidative stress and inflammation due to its sunscreen property, and its topical formulations may be developed as therapeutic and/or cosmetic products in further studies.     

Antioxidant Effects of the Ethanol Extract from Flower of Camellia japonica via Scavenging of Reactive Oxygen Species and Induction of Antioxidant Enzymes

The aim of this study was to investigate the antioxidant properties of the ethanol extract of the flower of Camellia japonica (Camellia extract). Camellia extract exhibited 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical and intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity in human HaCaT keratinocytes. In addition, Camellia extract scavenged superoxide anion generated by xanthine/xanthine oxidase and hydroxyl radical generated by the Fenton reaction (FeSO(4) + H(2)O(2)) in a cell-free system, which was detected by electron spin resonance spectrometry. Furthermore, Camellia extract increased the protein expressions and activity of cellular antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase. These results suggest that Camellia extract exhibits antioxidant properties by scavenging ROS and enhancing antioxidant enzymes. Camellia extract contained quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin and kaempferol, which are antioxidant compounds.     

The Methoxyflavonoid Isosakuranetin Suppresses UV-B-Induced Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Expression and Collagen Degradation Relevant for Skin Photoaging

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a main extrinsic factor for skin aging. Chronic exposure of the skin to UV radiation causes the induction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), such as MMP-1, and consequently results in alterations of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and skin photoaging. Flavonoids are considered as potent anti-photoaging agents due to their UV-absorbing and antioxidant properties and inhibitory activity against UV-mediated MMP induction. To identify anti-photoaging agents, in the present study we examined the preventative effect of methoxyflavonoids, such as sakuranetin, isosakuranetin, homoeriodictyol, genkwanin, chrysoeriol and syringetin, on UV-B-induced skin photo-damage. Of the examined methoxyflavonoids, pretreatment with isosakuranetin strongly suppressed the UV-B-mediated induction of MMP-1 in human keratinocytes in a concentration-dependent manner. Isosakuranetin inhibited UV-B-induced phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling components, ERK1/2, JNK1/2 and p38 proteins. This result suggests that the ERK1/2 kinase pathways likely contribute to the inhibitory effects of isosakuranetin on UV-induced MMP-1 production in human keratinocytes. Isosakuranetin also prevented UV-B-induced degradation of type-1 collagen in human dermal fibroblast cells. Taken together, our findings suggest that isosakuranetin has the potential for development as a protective agent for skin photoaging through the inhibition of UV-induced MMP-1 production and collagen degradation.     

Investigation of the Anti-Melanogenic and Antioxidant Characteristics of Eucalyptus camaldulensis Flower Essential Oil and Determination of Its Chemical Composition

The effects of essential oil from Eucalyptus camaldulensis flowers oil on melanogenesis and the oil’s antioxidant characteristics were investigated. Assays of mushroom and cellular tyrosinase activities and melanin content of mouse melanoma cells were performed spectrophotometrically, and the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by Western blotting. The possible signaling pathways involved in essential oil-mediated depigmentation were also investigated using specific protein kinase inhibitors. The results revealed that E. camaldulensis flower essential oil effectively suppresses intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreases melanin amount in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. The essential oil also exhibits antioxidant properties and effectively decreases intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels. The volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The chemical constituents in the essential oil are predominately oxygenated monoterpenes (34.9%), followed by oxygenated sesquiterpenes (31.8%), monoterpene hydrocarbons (29.0%) and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons (4.3%). Our results indicated that E. camaldulensis flower essential oil inhibits melanogenesis through its antioxidant properties and by down-regulating both mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) and protein kinase A (PKA) signaling pathways. The present study indicates that the essential oil has the potential to be developed into a skin care product.     

Metformin Attenuates UVA-Induced Skin Photoaging by Suppressing Mitophagy and the PI3K/AKT/mTOR Pathway

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major cause of photoaging that can induce DNA damage, oxidative stress, and cellular aging. Metformin (MF) can repair DNA damage, scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), and protect cells. However, the mechanism by which MF inhibits cell senescence in chronic skin damage induced by UVA is unclear. In this study, human foreskin fibroblasts (HFFs) treated with UVA were used as an in vitro model and UVA-induced skin photoaging in Kunming mice was used as an in vivo model to investigate the potential skin protective mechanism of MF. The results revealed that MF treatment attenuated UVA-induced cell viability, skin aging, and activation of the PI3K/AKT/mTOR signaling pathway. Furthermore, MF treatment alleviated the mitochondrial oxidative stress and decreased mitophagy. Knockdown of Parkin by siRNA increased the clearance of MF in senescent cells. The treatment of Kunming mice with MF at a dose of 10 mg/kg/day significantly reduced UVA-induced skin roughness, epidermal thinning, collagen degradation, and skin aging. In conclusion, our experimental results suggest that MF exerts anti-photoaging effects by inhibiting mitophagy and the PI3K/AKT/mTOR signaling pathway. Therefore, our study improves the current understanding of the protective mechanism of MF against photoaging.     

Antioxidative Characteristics of Anisomeles indica Extract and Inhibitory Effect of Ovatodiolide on Melanogenesis

The purpose of the study was to investigate the antioxidant characteristics of Anisomeles indica methanol extract and the inhibitory effect of ovatodiolide on melanogenesis. In the study, the antioxidant capacities of A. indica methanol extract such as DPPH assay, ABTS radical scavenging assay, reducing capacity and metal ion chelating capacity as well as total phenolic content of the extract were investigated. In addition, the inhibitory effects of ovatodiolide on mushroom tyrosinase, B16F10 intracellular tyrosinase and melanin content were determined spectrophotometrically. Our results revealed that the antioxidant capacities of A. indica methanol extract increased in a dose-dependent pattern. The purified ovatodiolide inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity (IC(50) = 0.253 mM), the compound also effectively suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity (IC(50) = 0.469 mM) and decreased the amount of melanin (IC(50) = 0.435 mM) in a dose-dependent manner in B16F10 cells. Our results concluded that A. indica methanol extract displays antioxidant capacities and ovatodiolide purified from the extract inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. Hence, A. indica methanol extract and ovatodiolide could be applied as a type of dermatological whitening agent in skin care products.     

Application of seed oils and its bioactive compounds in sunscreen formulations

The photoprotective skincare products are in high demand to meet the consumer market with concern on skin health. Seed oils are commonly used as ingredients in many cosmetic products due to their natural antioxidants and now being increasingly recognized for their effects on skin health and photoprotection. This article briefly reviews the application of seed oils in sunscreen development focusing on the antioxidants that contribute to photoprotection, thus preventing UV-induced erythema and photoaging. The addition of seed oils that contain specific natural bioactive compounds was discussed in the review. Besides that, seed oils acting in molecular pathways that benefit photoprotection were also summarized. Seed oils (pomegranate seed oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, jojoba oil, rosehip oil, grapeseed oil, kenaf seed oil, and pumpkin seed oil) utilization have high potential to act as natural UV filters and at the same time help in skin repairing. The seed oils contributed beneficial properties to the sunscreen formulation due to their synergistic effect with antioxidants, antiaging properties, anti-inflammatory effect, and potential hormetic effect. The finding of specific bioactive compound from seed oils provides a better understanding of the contribution of seed oils in sunscreen formulation.     

Intra- and interspecific avoidance of areas marked with skin extract from brook sticklebacks (Culaea inconstans) in a natural habitat

The detection of a chemical alarm pheromone may allow receivers to avoid areas where a predator has captured the prey's conspecifics. We marked minnow traps with either brook stickleback (Culaea inconstans) skin extract or a control of distilled water and tested whether sticklebacks avoided the skin extract marked traps in a natural habitat. Significantly more sticklebacks were captured in traps marked with control water, thereby demonstrating avoidance of conspecific skin extract. The stickleback captured in traps marked with conspecific extract were significantly smaller than those captured in traps marked with control water, implicating ontogenetic factors (i.e., experience or physiological development) in the development of the response. We also captured significantly fewer finescale dace (Chrosomus neogaeus) and fathead minnows (Pimephales promelas) in traps marked with skin extract. These data suggest that dace and minnows may benefit by avoiding areas where predators have recently captured sticklebacks.     

The Anti-Inflammatory Effects of the Methanolic Extract and Fractions from Davilla elliptica St. Hil. (Dilleniaceae) on Bothrops jararaca Envenomation

Inflammation and haemorrhage are the main characteristics of tissue injury in botropic envenomation. Although some studies have shown that anti-venom prevents systemic reactions, it is not efficient in preventing tissue injury at the site of the bite. Therefore, this work was undertaken to investigate the anti-inflammatory effects of the methanolic extract and fractions from D. elliptica and to evaluate the role of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in this process. Effects of the extract and fractions from D. elliptica were evaluated using a carrageenan-induced paw oedema model in rats, and leukocyte rolling was visualized by intravital. The quantification of MMPs activities (MMP-2 and MMP-9) extracted from the dermis of mice treated with extract and fractions alone or incubated with venom was determined by zymographic analyses. Our results show that intraperitoneal (i.p.) injection of fractions significantly reduced paw oedema after the carrageenan challenge. Treatment with the tannins fraction also resulted in considerable inhibition of the rolling of leukocytes and this fraction was able to decrease the activation of MMP-9. These results confirmed the anti-inflammatory activity of the methanolic extract and tannins fraction of D. elliptica and showed that the dermonecrosis properties of B. jararaca venom might be mediated through the inhibition of MMP-9 activity.     

Correlation among Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, Hemolytic, and Antiproliferative Properties of Leiothrix spiralis Leaves Extract

The biological activities of a plant extract depend on a complex sum of individual properties including the antioxidant activity. Several biological activities protect against the harmful action of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and here we focused our attention on the relationship between the biological activities tested and the antioxidant properties. In this study, the total flavonoid content as well as the antioxidant, antimicrobial, hemolytic and cytotoxicity activities of the methanolic extract of Leitothrix spiralis leaves were evaluated. The extract showed a total flavonoid content of 19.26% and the chemical characterization by HPLC-PAD confirmed the presence of flavonoids as the major secondary metabolite compounds. Significant antioxidant activity (IC(50) = 1.743 μg/mL ± 0.063) was demonstrated and was effective against Gram-negative organisms and all Candida strains tested, and showed an ability to inhibit hyphal formation. Non-hemolytic and antiproliferative activity could be demonstrated.     

Effects of Onion (Allium cepa L.) Extract Administration on Intestinal α-Glucosidases Activities and Spikes in Postprandial Blood Glucose Levels in SD Rats Model

Diets high in calories and sweetened foods with disaccharides frequently lead to exaggerated postprandial spikes in blood glucose. This state induces immediate oxidant stress and free radicals which trigger oxidative stress-linked diabetic complications. One of the therapeutic approaches for decreasing postprandial hyperglycemia is to retard absorption of glucose by the inhibition of carbohydrate hydrolyzing enzymes, α-amylase and α-glucosidases, in the digestive organs. Therefore, the inhibitory activity of Korean onion (Allium cepa L.) extract against rat intestinal α-glucosidases, such as sucrase, maltase, and porcine pancreatic α-amylase were investigated in vitro and in vivo. The content of quercetin in ethyl alcohol extract of onion skin (EOS) was 6.04 g/100 g dried weight of onion skin. The in vitro half-maximal inhibitory concentrations (IC(50)) of EOS and quercetin, a major phenolic in onion, on rat intestinal sucrase were 0.40 and 0.11 mg/mL, respectively. The postprandial blood glucose lowering effects of EOS and quercetin were compared to a known type 2 diabetes drug (Acarbose), a strong α-glucosidase inhibitor in the Sprague-Dawley (SD) rat model. In rats fed on sucrose, EOS significantly reduced the blood glucose spike after sucrose loading. The area under the blood glucose-time curve (AUC(last)) in EOS-treated SD rats (0.5 g-EOS/kg) was significantly lower than in untreated SD rats (259.6 ± 5.1 vs. 283.1 ± 19.2 h·mg/dL). The AUC(last) in quercetin-treated SD rats (0.5 g-quercetin/kg) was similar to in EOS-treated group (256.1 ± 3.2 vs. 259.6 ± 5.1 h·mg/dL). Results from this study indicates that although quercetin does have blood glucose lowering potential via α-glucosidase inhibition, there are other bioactive compounds present in onion skin. Furthermore, the effects of two weeks administration of EOS in a high carbohydrate-dietary mixture (Pico 5053) on sucrase and maltase activities in intestine were evaluated in SD rat model. Compared to the upper and middle parts of intestine, the activities of sucrase in the lower parts of intestine remained significantly higher after two weeks of EOS treatment. These results indicate that EOS may improve exaggerated postprandial spikes in blood glucose and glucose homeostasis since it inhibits intestinal sucrase and thus delays carbohydrate absorption, although clinical trials are needed.     

Phytochemical and Biological Studies of Agave attenuata

The present study was conducted to examine various biological activities of a methanol extract of Agave attenuata leaves. GC-MS analysis of the n-hexane fraction from the extract revealed the presence of 31 compounds, with mono-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (11.37%), 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid (6.33%), n-docosane (6.30%) and eicosane (6.02%) as the major components. The leaves contained appreciable levels of total phenolic contents (10.541-39.35 GAE, mg/100 g) and total flavonoid contents (43.35-304.8 CE, mg/100 g). The extract and some of its fractions showed moderate antimicrobial effects. Leaves extract and fractions also exhibited a good antioxidant potential when measured by DPPH radical scavenging activity and inhibition of lipid peroxidation assays. The hemolytic effect of the plant was found to be in a range of 1.01%-2.64%. From the present study it is concluded that this plant could be used as a source of natural antioxidants and functional food nutraceutical applications.     

The Involvement of Xanthone and (E)-Cinnamoyl Chromophores for the Design and Synthesis of Novel Sunscreening Agents

Excessive UV exposure contributes to several pathological conditions like skin burns, erythema, premature skin aging, photodermatoses, immunosuppression, and skin carcinogenesis. Effective protection from UV radiation may be achieved with the use of sunscreens containing UV filters. Currently used UV filters are characterized by some limitations including systemic absorption, endocrine disruption, skin allergy induction, and cytotoxicity. In the research centers all over the world new molecules are developed to improve the safety, photostability, solubility, and absorption profile of new derivatives. In our study, we designed and synthesized seventeen novel molecules by combining in the structures two chromophores: xanthone and (E)-cinnamoyl moiety. The ultraviolet spectroscopic properties of the tested compounds were confirmed in chloroform solutions. They acted as UVB or UVA/UVB absorbers. The most promising compound 9 (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate) absorbed UV radiation in the range 290–369 nm. Its photoprotective activity and functional photostability were further evaluated after wet milling and incorporation in the cream base. This tested formulation with compound 9 possessed very beneficial UV protection parameters (SPF_{in vitro} of 19.69 ± 0.46 and UVA PF of 12.64 ± 0.32) which were similar as broad-spectrum UV filter tris-biphenyl triazine. Additionally, compound 9 was characterized by high values of critical wavelength (381 nm) and UVA/UVB ratio (0.830) thus it was a good candidate for broad-spectrum UV filter and it might protect skin against UVA-induced photoaging. Compound 9 were also shown to be photostable, non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 50 µM when tested on five cell lines, and non-mutagenic in Ames test. It also possessed no estrogenic activity, according to the results of MCF-7 breast cancer model. Additionally, its favorable lipophilicity (miLogP = 5.62) does not predispose it to penetrate across the skin after topical application.     

Bioactive Compounds and Biological Activities of Jatropha curcas L. Kernel Meal Extract

Defatted Jatropha curcas L. (J. curcas) seed kernels contained a high percentage of crude protein (61.8%) and relatively little acid detergent fiber (4.8%) and neutral detergent fiber (9.7%). Spectrophotometric analysis of the methanolic extract showed the presence of phenolics, flavonoids and saponins with values of 3.9, 0.4 and 19.0 mg/g DM, respectively. High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analyses showed the presence of gallic acid and pyrogallol (phenolics), rutin and myricetin (flavonoids) and daidzein (isoflavonoid). The amount of phorbol esters in the methanolic extract estimated by HPLC was 3.0 ± 0.1 mg/g DM. Other metabolites detected by GC-MS include: 2-(hydroxymethyl)-2 nitro-1,3-propanediol, β-sitosterol, 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethy) and acetic acid in the methanolic extract; 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethy), acetic acid and furfural (2-furancarboxaldehyde) in the hot water extract. Methanolic and hot water extracts of kernel meal showed antimicrobial activity against both Gram positive and Gram negative pathogenic bacteria (inhibition range: 0-1.63 cm) at the concentrations of 1 and 1.5 mg/disc. Methanolic extract exhibited antioxidant activities that are higher than hot water extract and comparable to β-carotene. The extracts tended to scavenge the free radicals in the reduction of ferric ion (Fe(3+)) to ferrous ion (Fe(2+)). Cytotoxicity assay results indicated the potential of methanolic extract as a source of anticancer therapeutic agents toward breast cancer cells.     

Phytochemicals Analysis and Medicinal Potentials of Hydroalcoholic Extract from Curtisia dentata (Burm.f) C.A. Sm Stem Bark

Curtisia dentata (CD) is a vulnerable medicinal plant used for the treatment of stomach ailments in South Africa. However, there is a lack of sufficient data on its phytochemical components and medicinal properties. The phytochemical analysis of the extract was estimated using standard assay methods while its antibacterial activity was determined by the agar dilution method against selected bacteria. The antioxidant activity of the extract was done using ferric reducing power, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic-acid (ABTS), nitric oxide (NO), hydrogen peroxide (H(2)O(2)) and lipid peroxidation (LPO). The cytotoxicity assay of the extract was assessed using the brine shrimp lethality test with LC(50) value of 0.302 mg/mL. The antibacterial activity of the extract demonstrated an appreciable broad spectrum activity against the tested bacteria with minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) ranges between 5000 and 0.5 mg/L. Both phenol and flavonoid concentrations were 14.86 mg tannic acid equivalent/g and 13.64 mg quercetin equivalent/g, respectively. The percentage composition of saponins (13.26) was highest, followed by steroids (1.42), while alkaloids and tannins had the same value of 0.51. Similarly, IC(50) values of the extract against DPPH, ABTS, H(2)O(2), LPO and NO were 0.017, 0.018, 0.159, 0.06 and 0.052 mg/mL, respectively. The reducing power of the extract was found to be concentration dependent. Our data suggest that the 70% ethanol extract from the CD extract has antibacterial and antioxidant properties due to the presence of bio-active compounds and thus support its folkloric use in the treatment of diseases.     

Fabrication of althea officinalis loaded electrospun nanofibrous scaffold for potential application of skin tissue engineering

The Althea Officinalis (AO) extract is well known as a traditional herbal drug for its wound healing ability owing to the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Furthermore, its mucilaginous properties provide moisturizing and nutritional effects on skin cell proliferation. Therefore, AO extract can be applied in the temporary skin substitute for the ability to expedite the therapy duration. In this study, different concentrations of AO extract (0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 wt %) were incorporated into the nanofibrous scaffolds to study their potential for the skin tissue repairing. The desired scaffolds were prepared by electrospinning the blend of poly(ε -caprolactone) and gelatin as a synthesized and natural polymer. The electrospun nanofibers were characterized by SEM, FTIR, DSC, TGA, tensile, AO extract release, and cellular culture tests. This study proposed incorporating the AO extract into the nanofibrous scaffolds for accelerating the skin tissue repairing and the optimized amount of AO extract as about 15% was introduced for offering the most desirable electrospun scaffolds for this application. © 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 2020 , 137, 48587.