面料性能对服装缝纫质量的影响分析

测试了15种典型面料的主要力学性能指标,并按照不同角度进行了缝纫实验,获得了接缝强度、缝缩率、移位率3个缝纫质量评价指标.运用灰色关联分析研究了面料性能对缝纫质量影响的相关程度,并按照缝纫质量评价指标对各类面料进行了聚类分析.这一研究可以为服装企业选择面料和制定缝纫工艺提供数据依据,避免加工中可能出现的失误和浪费.     

面向服装面料自动缝合的缝纫工艺参数建模

为了解决缝纫中面料性能与缝纫加工工艺参数仅依靠技术工的经验完成匹配的问题，通过建立面料在缝纫过程中的多力场耦合模型智能选择缝纫加工工艺参数。以纬编织物为例，首先建立了织物单元的三维结构模型；其次分析了穿刺过程中织物组织与纱线间的抱合力对缝纫针的影响，并对面料在缝纫过程中的运动进行分析，创新性地建立了缝纫过程中基于面料力学性能的多力场耦合模型；然后建立了织物的有限元模型和缝纫针的几何模型，分析面料在缝纫过程中应力、应变的分布情况，得到面料在缝纫过程中因受外力作用而发生的形变并验证模型的正确性；最后搭建了协同自动缝纫实验平台进行实验验证数学多力场耦合模型的正确性。结果表明，该方法相比于工人凭借着经验完成缝纫可减少面料的形变和皱缩率，提高服装缝纫质量，为下一步服装面料自动缝合提供工艺参数，并为服装智能制造提供理论及技术参考。     

服装缝纫平整度的研究进展

为有效评价服装缝纫外观质量,对国内外服装外观评价标准以及相关研究进行了梳理,分别从织物性能与缝纫条件2个方面归纳了表征服装外观质量级别的接缝外观平整度的影响因素,探讨了缝纫平整度的主观、客观评价方法,从多因子角度综合分析缝纫工艺因素对平整度的影响。认为需提高织物物理力学性能与织物缝纫褶皱等级之间的数学模型的精度,改进基于面料物理性能指标的平整度预测模型,开展曲线接缝服装部件的平整度研究,并建立服装外观质量智能评价新模型。同时从服装生产制作角度对服装缝纫平整度的研究方向进行展望。     

基于模糊识别模型的缝纫外观质量评价

在典型面料缝纫实验的基础上,选用平均移位量、缝缩率、缝纫平整度和线迹顺直度作为评价指标,分析确立了缝纫外观质量的分级标准,并借助模糊模式识别方法建立了面料缝纫质量的评价模型,经过实例验证,该模型可以有效判别缝纫样本的外观质量等级.     

弹性面料服装缝制过程中的质量控制

选取弹性不同的5种弹性面料,采用实验测试不同弹性面料的断裂伸长率,选择常用的平缝机、链式机、4线包缝机3种缝纫设备,其余缝纫条件在实验过程中保持一致,分别进行单因素下5次以上的测试实验.研究表明,随着断裂伸长率的增大,织物的缝口变形率也增大,随缝纫线型变化而变化.以实际生产为例,找出了最佳工艺参数,提出了改善与提高弹性面料缝口效果的理论与方法,并总结生产过程的各环节注意事项,为弹性面料服装设计与生产提供技术依据与参考.     

缝纫条件对氨纶弹力机织物缝纫质量的影响

通过缝纫实验 ,总结不同缝纫条件对织物缝纫质量的影响 ,提出改善氨纶弹力机织物缝纫质量的方法和建议     

基于灰色关联分析的缝纫针号预测

将灰色系统理论应用于服装缝纫加工参数缝纫针号的预测。选择45块常用的服装面料,在KES测试仪上进行面料力学性能的测试。不同面料所用的缝针由服装厂的技师根据经验选择并通过实际缝制实验验证。利用面料的力学性能指标和缝纫针号间的灰色关联分析,按照关联度的高低对建模数据进行筛选,以关联度在0·90以上的参数建立缝纫针号的优化灰色预测模型GM(SP)。与未经灰色关联分析的全参数预测模型GM(AP)比较,优化灰色模型的预测精度有明显提高,说明其应用是有效的。模型的相对误差为5·61%。     

织物缝纫皱缩的评价

通过对织物缝纫评价方法的研究，发现用缝缩率Sp指标评价存在较大误差，而用综合缝缩率Sp'指标评价较准确。理论分析和实测数据都证实了这一观点。     

基于缝口强度的丝绸面料缝纫形式与参数设计

选取薄厚不同的两种真丝面料,采用实验方法,选择常用的平缝、压缉缝、内包缝以及垫布缝4种缝纫形式,以及线迹密度、缝纫线细度2个因素,其余缝纫条件在实验过程中保持一致,进行单因素下5次以上的测试实验,测试不同缝纫条件下真丝面料的接缝强力、断裂伸长率等特性.研究表明,随着线迹密度的增大,织物的断裂强力及断裂伸长率先增大后减小;随着缝纫线细度变细,断裂强力及断裂伸长率均减小;薄型丝织物面料的缝纫外观等级随着面料厚度的增加有所改善.以实际生产为例,找出了最佳工艺参数,提出了改善与提高真丝面料缝口性能的理论与方法,为真丝面料实际生产过程中常见问题的解决提供技术依据.     

基于基本规格参数的织物缝纫平整度的研究

以毛精纺织物的基本规格参数及织物丝绺角度作为变量,应用主成分分析法探讨这些变量对服装缝纫平整度的影响,并利用这些变量建立BP神经网络模型,预测织物的各向缝纫平整度.实验结果表明:织物的丝绺角度与织物中羊毛纤维的含量对缝纫平整度的影响较为显著;利用毛精纺织物的基本规格参数及织物丝绺角度建立的BP神经网络模型能够快速、准确地预测毛精纺织物的各向缝纫平整度,从而为毛精纺织物缝纫平整度的客观评价提供了一条便捷、实用、高效的途径.     

Investigation of Seam Pucker in Lightweight Synthetic Fabrics as an Aesthetic Property Part I: A Cognitive Model for the Measurement of Seam Pucker

Seam pucker is an area which is now receiving particular attention especially with the development of microfibre fabrics which are inherently prone to deformations during garment manufacture. Although fabric properties can be related to seam pucker, the aesthetic judgement is still left to subjective assessment which is based upon ranking the stitched fabric samples by judges having compared them with photographic ‘standards’. The shortcomings of this procedure are obvious; judges do not always agree, they need to be trained, the procedure is time consuming and non standardised. This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure which is based on the use of a computer and a camera, ie computer ‘vision’. This procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly, by ‘modelling’ the cognitive process involved in seam pucker assessment The results are organised in two parts: Part I reports on the development of a cognitive ‘model’ for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II on the model implementation using the computer ‘vision’ system.     

雪纺面料性能与缝缩方向性研究

由于缺乏对同一种面料缝缩方向性变化规律的了解,对缝缩的控制常常依赖于经验,为此研究了雪纺面料在不同方向上面料性能与缝缩的变化规律。在0°~360°范围内沿面料经向每隔10°分别取样并缝制,还包括45°、135°、225°和315°斜向角度,用FAST风格仪测定不同方向面料的弯曲性能、拉伸性能、剪切性能,分别测定面料不同方向的缝缩率,并通过AATCC标准对缝缩进行主观评价。分别建立面料性能方向性与缝缩率方向性以及主观评价值之间的回归预测方程,对合理选择面料丝缕方向进行服装造型设计及制作有指导意义。     

Investigating the relation of fabric’s buckling behaviour and tension seam pucker formation

In the present study, the formation of tension seam pucker is considered in more details in order to compute the thread compression load in terms of sewing thread tension. To this end, the stitch formation in the fabric is simplified. The exerted thread compression force on the fabric in each stitch is calculated according to the thread tension, its mechanical properties and the cycles that the sewing thread suffers before shaping the stitch. In addition, the fabrics properties that are effective on the seam puckering are measured and their relation with the applied load on the fabrics is investigated. This process is carried out for 12 various fabrics which can be classified into three groups according to the application in the clothing. Outcomes indicated that it is possible to compute the compression force on the fabric in each stitch in every sewing tension level that is useful to predict the seam puckering formation in fabrics with known mechanical properties. The results of this research help to analyse the compression load on the fabric based on sewing thread tension.     

提高免烫衬衫袖窿起皱级别的方法

免烫面料由于其特殊的整理方式,容易出现袖窿缝口缩皱的问题,严重影响了衬衣的品质和外观而达不到客户要求。以实例说明改良前后的接缝起皱级别的对比,经检测分析表明:缝纫线的调整;线迹密度的适当调节;对袖窿进行熨烫整理;对衣片含湿率进行调整等有利于提高衬衣袖窿接缝起皱级别,解决了免烫衬衣袖窿接缝起皱低的问题。     

Investigation of Seam Pucker in Lightweight Synthetic Fabrics as an Aesthetic Property Part II: Model Implementation Using Computer ‘Vision’

This paper reports upon the development of a new measuring procedure for seam pucker which is based on computer ‘vision’. The procedure is objective and is focused on the aesthetic property of the seam assembly. The results are presented in two parts; Part I reported on the development of a cognitive model for the measurement of seam pucker and Part II, described here, explains the model's implementation by using the computer ‘vision’ system.     

小波分析在织物缝纫平整度客观评价中的应用

提出一种基于小波分析的缝纫平整度客观评价方法,可以克服主观评价的局限性,使得缝纫外观质量的检测更加快速、准确。在对缝纫平整度标样图像进行处理的基础上,采用二维离散小波变换提取图像高频分量中细节系数的标准差作为特征向量,其在特定的分析尺度上随缝纫平整度的恶化呈现出明显的单调递增趋势。通过计算平整度评估因子（EK）确定了最佳小波和最佳小波分析尺度,从而建立了缝纫平整度等级的客观评判模型。采用棉织物的缝纫样本检验了模型,结果表明主客观评价的吻合度达到85%以上,由此验证了该方法的可行性。     

缝纫平整度客观评判模型的研究

借助于图像处理技术,提取缝纫平整度照片的图像灰度标准差、图像熵、小波变换系数标准差、小波信息熵等特征参数,建立了缝纫平整度的客观评判的概率神经网络模型.经过训练和检验,得出该模型的预测值与期望值之间的相关系数在0.99以上,说明网络模型有效,且精度高,可以用于预测未知缝纫样本的缝纫平整度等级.     

织物结构主成分及其透气透湿研究

为了深入探讨织物结构对其透气、透湿性的影响,文章采集19块涤纶织物的6个基本结构参数进行主成分分析,提取到2个对原始结构特征贡献率达87.423%的结构主成分,即尺寸结构因子(Z1)和材料聚集因子(Z2),分别反映织物结构中大孔隙情况和材料聚集程度,并与织物透气、透湿性进行相关性研究。结果表明:两个主成分密切但差异地影响织物的透气、透湿性;尺寸结构因子Z1正相关影响透气性,材料聚集因子Z2与之呈现负相关,关系方程为Y1=239.444Z1-288.746Z2+412.799;材料聚集因子Z2对透湿性有显著影响,表现为密切负相关,关系方程为Y2=80.783Z1-159.941Z2+2636.147;透湿与透气存在一些传输机理的区别。     

A Model of Seam Pucker and Its Applications. Part II: Experimental

Abstract

A simple model of a lockstitch seam (301) has been developed in part I, which is used to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam.

This article compares the numerical assessment of pucker, derived from the model in part I, with fabric mechanics experiments and visual assessments of the phenomenon. It is shown that there is good linear correlation between the two. The model is then used to evaluate with precision, which of a selection of stiffeners, is needed to reduce pucker to an acceptable level, without overstifenning the seam. This work has implications in design and garment construction and manufacture, and in easy care garments. For the first time the idea of, precisely selecting a siffener so that it can locally to the seam alter the mechanics of the assembly, is introduced, as minimum intervention in the combat of seam puckering.     

Effect of seam angle on seam puckering in lightweight woven fabrics

Displacement puckering is the major cause of seam puckering, while sewing lightweight woven fabrics. In this paper, effect of seam angle (0°–90° to the weft) on the seam puckering has been studied for cotton and polyester fabrics at different stitch lengths. Puckering is estimated by measuring a difference between the thickness of seamed and unseamed fabrics. It is observed that seam puckering decreases and then increases as the seam angle to the weft increases. Seam puckering is the lowest at seam angle of 30° for cotton fabrics and 69?g/m² polyester fabric; at 45° for 88?g/m² polyester fabrics, depending upon the warp and weft yarns covered in the seam and yarn linear densities, which can be represented as effective relative cover. Seam puckering is the lowest at a seam angle, when the effective relative cover is highest.