No. 2 Vol. 42, No. 3, pp. 201–217, 2008 Enhancing facial beauty: diminishing tension-caused forehead wrinkles through upper back massage

A number of papers have been published on the oxidation coupling reactions of the active intermediate of a dye precursor with an electron-rich dye coupler. At the present stage, however, little information is available about the oxidative reaction mechanism to colored oxidation products and the dye distribution inside the keratin fibers. From the results of dyeing in the presence of both reducing agent and chelate agent, we found that the coupling reaction developing oxidation dyes occurred on the outer surface in the cuticle cell phase, and that not only the cell membrane complex (CMC) regions play an important role as accumulation regions of the finished dye, but also the components of CMC contribute directly to the oxidation coupling reactions. Furthermore, we suggested from the other results that the metal ions and disulphide bond presented primarily within the intercellular materials play an important role in developing the colored oxidation dye. Then, on the basis of the general scheme of the oxidation dye process, we proposed a tentative mechanistic scheme of oxidative dyeing to account for the oxidation dying phenomenon of keratin fibers. The scheme is made up of four step-reactions.
Keywords:  oxidation dye, oxidative dyeing, precursor, coupler, active intermediate, keratin fiber, chelate agent, cell membrane complex, intercellular materials, metal ion, disulphide bond     

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 117–125 (March/April 2008)A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesis

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of some cellulose polymers mixed in a semipermanent dyestuff on the dye uptake of yak hair fiber and color fading after repeated washing cycles. Two different classes of commercial polymers were tested: non-ionic and cationic. Formulations based on a mixture of HC and basic dyes, with different molecular sizes, were employed as representative dyestuffs. UV-Vis spectroscopy and colorimetric measurements were used to analyze the extracted dyes from the yak hair cuticle and cortex. The results obtained indicate that the presence of cationic polymers in the dye bath improves both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti-fading effect during the first washing cycles.     

Effects of arginine on hair damage via oxidative coloring process

Different kinds of silicones were incorporated directly into permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes. To ensure that the silicone was deposited to the hair fibers Si deposition was measured. Hair treated with a silicone free control or the silicone modified hair dyes was tested for color and lightness change (fading) by washing the treated tresses several times and measuring the color change. In a second experiment, hair treated with permanent hair dye was treated with UV radiation to show if silicones can reduce the color change initiated by UV light. The influence of the silicones to dry combing forces of permanent dyed hair untreated and treated with UV was also investigated. The tests showed that dimethiconol/dimethicone mixtures can reduce the washout of hair colorant clearly and silicone resins like trimethylsiloxysilcate or propylphenylsilsesquioxane are able to decrease the color change occurred by UV radiation in dyed hair.     

Super mild oxidation coloring: preventing hair damage at the molecular level

Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 10 (2007) (4) 323–329 Hydrogen peroxide is widely used for oxidation hair coloring or bleaching. It displays a high redox potential and easily penetrates into the hair fiber. This renders hydrogen peroxide capable of non‐specific interactions with cortex and cuticle proteins resulting in irreversible cleavage of cystine crosslinks. Various classes of antioxidants were screened for their anti‐hair damage effect in a permanent hair dye formulation using NIR spectroscopy. In parallel, the effect on the coloring and lightening performance was studied to exclude unwanted side effects on primary product performance. The screening criteria were fulfilled by organic disulfides such as α‐lipoic acid but interestingly not by powerful antioxidants such as tocoperol, dibutylhydroxytoluene, or beta‐carotene. Alpha‐lipoic acid significantly protected human hair during oxidation coloring as demonstrated by (i) amino acid and protein analysis, (ii) surface polarity measurement, (iii) lipid analysis, (iv) differential scanning calorimetry, and (v) combing work measurement. Our results show that radical scavenging properties alone do not render antioxidants suitable for hair protection during oxidative treatments. The presence of disulfide bonds appears to be very favorable and it is likely that the intramolecular cross‐link within α‐lipoic acid provides a kinetically controlled protection for cystine crosslinks during oxidation coloring. Keywords: alpha‐lipoic acid, antioxidant, hair damage, hair dye, NIR spectroscopy Paper presented at the IFSCC Conference 2007, Amsterdam, The Netherlands     

亚麻纤维的改性及染色性能的研究

以亚硫酸氢钠溶液对经高碘酸钠氧化处理的亚麻纤维进行磺化改性,并采用阳离子染料进行染色.考查了氧化条件对织物醛基含量和断裂强力的影响;分析了亚硫酸氢钠质量浓度、处理时间、反应温度等因素对磺化效果的影响;并借助红外光谱对氧化亚麻织物与磺化亚麻纤维进行表征.通过对磺化亚麻织物染色性能的研究,不但确定了亚麻织物氧化和磺化的最佳工艺,而且用阳离子染料对磺化亚麻织物进行染色,上染百分率较高、染色牢度良好、匀染性和染透性好.     

双氧水预处理对半脱胶丝/棉交织物活性染料同色性染色的影响

本文试验研究了一种单纯采用常规染液酸度控制法无法实现的丝/棉交织物半脱胶活性染料同色性染色方法。该方法是在真丝精练过程中,通过双氧水对真丝染色基团的氧化改性作用,达到丝/棉交织物半脱胶同色性染色的目的,同时还精选出三只适宜丝/棉交织物半脱胶同色性染色的红黄蓝活性染料。     

基于漆酶催化角蛋白头发纤维生物修复染色

针对目前常规染发过程中氧化剂及染发剂对角蛋白头发纤维的损伤及易对人产生过敏等问题,采用漆酶催化盐酸多巴胺聚合生色并对角蛋白头发纤维进行原位染色,以达到生态安全、环保健康、生物修复、染色牢固的角蛋白头发纤维染黑效果。借助测色配色仪、万能材料试验机、扫描电子显微镜、傅里叶变换红外光谱仪和纺织品防紫外性能测试仪等对染色角蛋白头发纤维的结构和性能进行了表征。结果表明：原位染色角蛋白头发纤维表面色深值为23.9,表观颜色色相为黑色,防紫外线性能也得到提高,紫外线防护系数为100⁺,染色后角蛋白头发纤维断裂强力提高7.8%;漆酶催化盐酸多巴胺聚合生成聚多巴胺色素,且附着于角蛋白头发纤维表面,与角蛋白头发纤维结合牢固,染色角蛋白头发纤维的干、湿摩擦色牢度及耐洗变色牢度分别达到4级、3～4级及4～5级。     

Effect of cationic charge and hydrophobic index of cellulose‐based polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for hair

In this work, the effects of a new class of polymers generally used in hair and skin cleansing products, the SoftCAT (SofCAT SL and SoftCAT SX), on the dye uptake on the hair fibre and the fading effects has been studied. These polymers, based on quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, are cationic products that differ in viscosity, hydrophobic substitution index (HS) and/or cationic substitution (CS, % N). UV–Vis spectroscopy has been used to analyse the extracted dyes from the hair cuticle and the cortex. The results indicate that the presence of polymers in the dye bath improve both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti‐fading effect during the washing cycles. This phenomenon is postulated to be attributable to the polymers hydrophobically bonding with the dyes and so facilitating their increased penetration into the hair.     

硫化染色织物的抗氧化性能

硫化染料因价格低廉、色牢度好,一直是纤维素纤维的主要染料之一,对染深色尤其重要。然而硫化染料存在诸多缺点,抗氧化能力差是最突出的问题之一。硫化染料染色的织物,经含氧漂剂洗衣粉洗涤后,颜色变化很大,限制了其在工业界的广泛应用。综述了传统的改善硫化染色织物抗氧化性能的方法以及本课题组在提高硫化染料耐氧漂性能方面的工作。在传统的硫化染料染色织物后整理技术中,经耐久压烫整理的染色织物,抗氧漂性能得到了有限的提高,而织物的机械性能受到一定破坏且手感变差;经去垢剂整理的染色织物,其氧漂时抗着色性提高了0.5~1级,但该整理方法的成本较高,且对织物的其它性能有一定的负面影响;改善染料上染工艺法虽能够改善硫化染色织物的耐氧漂性能,但适用范围和效果有限;本课题组提出的醋酸镧法,可使硫化染色织物的耐氧漂性能提高50%。     

艳丽牢活性染料上染锦纶的工艺

采用艳丽牢活性染料对锦纶纤维进行染色,与传统的分散染料、酸性染料或1∶2金属络合染料相比,该染料具有明显的优势。通过实验及大生产证明,艳丽牢活性染料染锦纶织物的色谱广,能染深色,且具有很好的提升力、拼色配伍性和耐水洗色牢度。     

阳涤氨汗布面料的染色

采用SD型分散阳离子染料对阳涤氨汗布面料进行留白染色。当染料质量分数为2%、pH值4.5、元明粉1.8 g/L、120℃染色45 min时,染色后的织物色泽鲜艳,各项色牢度均在3.5级以上。采用SD型分散阳离子染料与分散染料对阳涤氨汗布面料进行异色一浴法双染,与传统工艺相比较,缩短了工艺流程,达到节能减排的目的。     

天然染料染色羊毛的色域拓展及颜色预测模型

天然染料色谱不全的缺陷限制了其在羊毛上的应用。为丰富天然染料染色羊毛纤维的颜色色谱,选用天然红、黄、蓝三原色染料染色羊毛织物与纤维,然后对羊毛织物的一浴法拼混染色和有色纤维的拼色进行研究,并基于Kubelka-Munk单常数理论和Stearns-Noechel模型分别对一浴法拼混染色织物和拼混有色纤维进行颜色预测。结果表明：使用一浴法拼混染色,染色后的羊毛织物在CIELAB色域空间中分布不均匀,倾向于红(+a^*),色相角(h)分布范围主要集中在0°～24°、324°～360°之间;经有色纤维拼混获得的颜色空间分布更加均匀,更倾向于黄(+b^*),色相角(h)分布范围集中在0°～50°、316°～360°区域;Kubelka-Munk模型和Stearns-Noechel模型可分别用于天然染料一浴法染色羊毛织物和羊毛有色纤维拼色的颜色预测,为进一步提高生产效率、降低配色成本提出新思路。     

烯类硅氧烷单体接枝真丝绸的染色性能

烯类硅氧烷单体接枝真丝绸后,用酸性和活性染料染色,就接枝率、电解质浓度、染色时间和染料浓度等因素对接枝后真丝绸染色性能的影响进行了研究。结果表明,低接枝率的真丝绸用酸性染料染色,颜色增深,染色牢度与未接枝的相当;真丝绸接枝后的活性染料染色性能下降。     

不同染料组合对涤纶/锦纶复合超细纤维织物的染色

针对涤纶/锦纶复合超细纤维织物在染色时不易染得深浓色以及深浓色牢度差的问题,分析比较了采用不同染料组合对其进行染色的优缺点。分别使用分散—活性染料、分散—直接染料、分散—酸性染料对涤纶/锦纶复合超细纤维织物进行染色。结果表明,对染色深度要求较高但是对染色牢度要求不高的涤纶/锦纶复合超细纤维可以选择使用分散/直接或分散/酸性染料染色。使用分散—活性染料染色可以使涤纶/锦纶复合超细纤维织物获得深浓色泽的同时还能有较好的染色牢度,染料用量12%(owf)时,主要色牢度(耐水洗,耐摩擦)仍能达到4级及以上。     

Vol. 42, No. 1, pp.1-6, 2008Overview of cosmetic dermatological approach for photoaging

In this study, a hydrophobic phospholipid polymer nano-dispersion was formed by self-aggregating poly(2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-co-stearyl methacrylate) (PMS). Self-aggregation was carried out by diluting a PMS/polyol solution with hot water. The zeta potential of the PMS particles was changed by complexation with anionic or cationic surfactants, the addition of which did not affect the average diameter of the PMS particles, which was always less than 50 nm. The cationized PMS nano-dispersion was used for treating artificially damaged hair. An X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic analysis showed uniform adsorption of the PMS onto the surface of the hair specimens. The PMS nano-dispersion was not only adsorbed on the surface but also permeated into the hair, as shown by a fluorescence microscopic observation of the damaged hair treated with the PMS nano-dispersion that also contained Nile Red. From a scanning electron microscope observation, the PMS was also found to suppress the lift-ups of the hair cuticle. The surface of damaged hair was hydrophilic, whereas the one treated with PMS was hydrophobic, like healthy hair. PMS treatment has decreased the surface friction and electrostatic decay of damaged hair, and also prevented the discoloration of colored hair.
Keywords: 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, phospholipid polymer, intercellular lipid, nano-dispersion, self-aggregation, zeta potential, damaged hair, surface friction, electrostatic decay, discoloration     

Function of surfactants in hair dyeing by oxidation dyes 2. Effect on formation of oxidation dyes by p-aminophenol and 5-amino-o-cresol in dye bath(1)

The effect of surfactants on an oxidation-hair-dye-formation reaction in a dye bath was studied in order to learn the mechanism of the effect of surfactants on the dyeability of hair by the oxidation dye. The dye-formation behaviours for the p-aminophenol and 5-amino-o-cresol system with the surfactants, of which the hydrophilic parts have different charges, were compared changing the concentration of surfactants. It was found that the same dyes are produced, regardless of the charge of surfactants added, and the rate of dye produced in the dyebath is increased in the presence of surfactants. The order of the production rate is, with an anionic surfactant > with non-ionic surfactant > with cationic surfactant > without surfactant. The relation between the dyeability of hair and the rate of dye produced in the dyebath in the presence of surfactants is not found. The major factor governing the dyeability of hair is different from the mechanism of the increased dye in the solution. It was also found that the dye-formation rate is increased by immersing hair into the reaction solution, and hair works as an accelerator for the dye-formation reaction.     

Color simulation method for accurate prediction of resulting dyed hair color

When choosing hair dyes, it is natural for the user to assume that the final hair color will resemble the color indicated on the product container or color chart. Often, however, the result is quite different. The ability to accurately predict resulting hair color after dyeing is essential, but not easy to attain because hair varies significantly from person to person. In this paper, a new method for predicting the dyed hair state is proposed. Our method is based on a model, where the observed final color consists of contribution from three layers of the hair structure: a melanin-containing layer, a bleached layer and a pigment-colored layer. A method for predicting the final color from responses in each layer is introduced. In this method, response formulae for each layer are derived from the energy balance, and the predicted hair color after dyeing is obtained by calculating the each equation assuming that the hair state before dyeing is solely because of the contribution from the melanin-containing layer. In addition, a small measuring apparatus utilizing this prediction method was developed and the effectiveness of our method demonstrated by data obtained before and after the hair dyeing.     

Study of C.I. Reactive Yellow 145, C.I. Reactive Red 238 and C.I. Reactive Blue 235 dyestuffs in order to use them in color formulation. Part 2: modeling and optimization of dyeing performances

Abstract

This article models and optimizes the effect of dyeing parameters on obtained color of fabric samples dyed with three cold bifunctional reactive dyes, namely, C.I. Reactive Yellow 145, C.I. Reactive Red 238 and C.I. Reactive Blue 235, in order to use them in color formulation. The studied dyeing parameters are electrolyte concentration, alkali concentration, liquor-to-fiber ratio and temperature of dyeing process. The influence of these parameters was analyzed for four different shades: 0.1%, 1%, 2% and 4%. Two criteria of evaluation are studied and optimized: the exhaustion and the fixation yields. Linear modeling of optimal concentrations of electrolyte and alkali according to the dye concentration was developed, allowing the calculation of optimal quantities which should be added to the dye bath for any dye concentration. Color coordinates and fastness (washing, rubbing and light fastness) of samples dyed with optimal conditions are also evaluated and discussed.     

壳聚糖用于纸张染色

利用壳聚糖对漂白硫酸盐浆进行预处理,分别采用Cartasol Red 2FGN liquid直接染料及Cartasol BlueK-2R liquid阳离子直接染料对纸浆进行染色,研究壳聚糖黏度、用量及pH值对染色效果的影响,同时就壳聚糖与硫酸铝的协同效应进行研究。结果表明,增大壳聚糖黏度和用量可提高直接染料染色色度;黏度对阳离子直接染料染色影响不大,但随着其用量的增加,染色色度先增后降;壳聚糖溶液的pH对两种染料的染色效果影响不大。另外,壳聚糖与硫酸铝在直接染料染色时协同效应明显,但在阳离子直接染料染色时较差。     

尼龙66/涤纶交织物活性/分散一浴法染色

采用亨斯迈公司的尼龙专用活性染料艳丽牢，对尼龙66／涤纶交织物进行活性／分散染料一浴法染色。与传统酸性／分散染料一浴染色法相比，该工艺具有更好的匀染性、重现性和色牢度。艳丽牢活性染料色泽鲜艳，配伍性好，提升力也较高，在达到相同的染色效果时节约了成本。