基于谱线特征的羊绒与羊毛的鉴别

为快速区分和检验羊毛、羊绒,提出基于羊毛与羊绒谱线特征的识别方法。这种方法先通过光学显微镜获得羊毛与羊绒的图像,然后经过图像处理得到羊毛与羊绒的表面信息。接着通过投影的方式,获得羊毛与羊绒表面所对应的谱线。对获得的谱线进行分割,根据羊毛及羊绒谱线的特性不同,提取羊毛及羊绒谱线的单元宽度值、单元峰值及离散系数、峰值宽度比等参数;最后通过对这些参数的分析处理进行识别。实验结果表明,采用这种方法识别羊毛及羊绒,不仅快速准确,而且与以往的方法相比,在精度和速度上都有显著的提高。     

基于基因技术的羊绒与羊毛纤维定性鉴别方法

随着羊毛改性技术的发展,传统的光学显微镜鉴别羊绒羊毛的方法逐渐显出其局限性。采用基因技术,利用山羊与绵羊之间特定碱基序列的差别,通过PCR扩增、测序,得到各自的DNA碱基序列,从而确定其种属,达到鉴别纤维的目的。文章通过纯羊绒羊毛纤维及不同比例羊绒羊毛混合物线粒体DNA的测序实验,研究了羊绒羊毛的DNA鉴别方法。结果表明：1）基于基因技术的DNA测序方法可以准确定性鉴别极小比例的羊绒羊毛纤维;2）对于纯羊绒羊毛纤维,采用一组引物,即可通过特定位点特征碱基序列组来鉴别;3）对于羊绒羊毛混合物,分别采用羊绒引物和羊毛引物对样品测序,通过查找羊绒羊毛纤维各自的特征序列,鉴别样品中是否含有羊绒或羊毛。     

羊毛与羊绒鉴别技术的研究进展

为了更好地鉴别羊毛与羊绒,介绍了羊毛与羊绒基本组织结构、化学组成成分以及品质性能的同异性。分别从化学分析法、显微技术分析法、计算机图像识别技术、生物技术、红外光谱分析技术6个方面归纳多种羊毛、羊绒鉴别技术的特点和应用情况,并总结了各种方法的优缺点。认为羊毛与羊绒鉴别技术各有千秋,并提出：应扩大样本容量,有针对性地选用现有技术,以及有效结合现有技术和数字化技术进行羊毛与羊绒的鉴别,以提高羊毛与羊绒鉴别准确度和鉴别效率。     

羊绒、羊毛（改性羊毛）的定性鉴别与定量分析

从羊毛及羊绒的组织结构及物理,化学特性方面的差异进行分析,结合实际生产情况,总结了染色法,着色剂法,溶液鉴别法,电子显微镜观察法等定性与定量鉴别羊毛（改性羊毛）与羊绒的原理和方法。     

采用数字图像处理的羊毛与羊绒纤维识别

探讨采用数字图像处理的羊毛与羊绒纤维识别效果。首先采集纹理细节和形状轮廓增强的羊毛与羊绒纤维图像,将交叉纤维处理分割成单根纤维。分别提取纤维的形态特征和纹理特征,然后基于支持向量机模型,根据有限样本信息的学习精度和学习能力进行羊毛与羊绒纤维识别。最终,羊毛与羊绒纤维识别正确率达到93.1%。认为:采用数字图像处理提取纤维特征能较好地识别羊毛与羊绒纤维。     

紫外线辐照对羊绒纤维与羊毛纤维性能的影响

通过测试紫外线辐照前后羊绒纤维与羊毛纤维的染色性能、摩擦因数及力学性能指标,分析紫外线辐照对羊绒纤维、羊毛纤维服用性能的影响。研究表明,紫外线辐照处理使得羊绒纤维与羊毛纤维染色性能与纤维表面摩擦因数得到改善,但造成了纤维力学性能下降,且上述测试指标变化最大的时间区间均在10~30 h。认为:羊绒纤维与羊毛纤维的紫外线辐照处理时间控制在10 h之内,既可以满足改善纤维染色性能,又能避免纤维力学性能的下降。     

羊绒与羊毛的碱溶度差异

对羊绒及羊毛在不同条件 (碱浓度、温度、处理时间 )的 Na OH溶液中的溶解度进行了测试、分析和说明 ,进一步了解碱对羊绒和羊毛不同的作用情况 ,得出了羊绒 /羊毛含量定量分析的条件 ,以便在生产和检验中加以利用。     

丝与羊毛羊绒混纺产品含量分析方法探讨——甲酸／氯化锌法

为了准确、便捷地分析丝与羊毛羊绒混纺产品含量，提出了甲酸／氯化锌法，并通过试验得出了丝与羊毛羊绒混纺产品含量分析试验的最佳条件，并对该方法的可操作性和准确性进行了探讨。     

丝与羊毛羊绒混纺产品定量方法的探讨

为了准确、便捷地分析丝与羊毛羊绒混纺产品的纤维含量,利用丝和羊毛羊绒不同的化学性质,提出了浓盐酸法。通过试验得出了丝与羊毛羊绒混纺产品含量分析的最佳条件,并对该方法的可操作性和准确性进行了探讨。     

羊毛羊绒产品环境表现评价研究综述

为量化与评价羊毛羊绒产品的环境表现,为羊毛羊绒产品的绿色设计、绿色生产及可持续消费提供参考,综述了羊毛羊绒产品生命周期环境表现评价研究进展,并对数据分配方法、反刍和排泄的温室气体排放量化、羊毛羊绒纤维固碳作用等关键问题进行讨论。结果表明,在原毛、原绒获取阶段选择基于质量或蛋白质质量分数的分配方法,可以提高该阶段数据的准确性;绵羊、山羊反刍和排泄产生的温室气体排放量对羊毛羊绒产品生命周期阶段造成的全球变暖潜值影响较大,可选择建模的方法量化反刍和排泄产生的温室气体排放量;碳元素追溯法可厘清羊毛羊绒产品的固碳作用和碳传导机理,准确追溯羊毛中碳元素的来源,可用于量化羊毛羊绒产品的固碳效应。     

Comparisons of the Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra of cashmere,guard hair,wool and other animal fibres

Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), identifies chemical bands related to chemical bonds including amino acid groups. The potential for FTIR to differentiate animal fibres from different origins was investigated using cashmere (Chinese, Australian, Iranian), wool (Chinese, Australian), bison wool, qiviut from Musk-ox, vicuña and guard hairs present in these raw fibre samples. Cashmere from a controlled nutrition experiment with known amino acid composition was included in the study. While the intensity of FTIR spectra were moderately correlated with the content of some of the amino acids in cashmere, this investigation did not detect any significant systematic effects of nutritional manipulation of cashmere goats on the FTIR spectra of their cashmere. Significant differences were detected in the intensity of FTIR spectra between cashmere and wool, cashmere from different origins, white and coloured cashmere, and between cashmere and hair. The FTIR spectra of cashmere and wool overlapped with those of bison, qiviut and vicuña. The intensity of FTIR spectra were not correlated with the mean fibre diameter of samples but the intensity of most spectra bands were positively correlated with the fibre curvature of the samples (r = 0.27–0.38). Based on these results it does not seem likely that FTIR spectra offer a reliable method to distinguish between pure cashmere and blends of cashmere with wool or other animal fibre for diagnostic tests to determine the fibre composition in finished textiles.     

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n?=?114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n?=?35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n?=?27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.     

Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere,alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres

Softness of apparel textiles is a major attribute sought by consumers. There is surprisingly little objective information on the softness properties of rare animal fibres, particularly cashmere, alpaca and mohair. Samples of these and other rare animal fibres from different origins of production and processors were objectively measured for fibre diameter, fibre curvature (FC, crimp) and resistance to compression (softness). While there were curvilinear responses of resistance to compression to FC and to mean fibre diameter, FC accounted for much more of the variance in resistance to compression. Fibre type was an important determinant of resistance to compression. The softest fibres were alpaca, mohair and cashgora and all of the fibres measured were softer than most Merino wool. Quivet, llama, camel, guanaco, vicuña, yak wool, bison wool, dehaired cow down and Angora rabbit were also differentiated from alpaca, mohair and cashmere. There were important differences in the softness and FC of cashmere from different origins with cashmere from newer origins of production (Australia, New Zealand and USA) having lower resistance to compression than cashmere from traditional sources of China and Iran. Cashmere from different origins was differentiated on the basis of resistance to compression, FC and fibre diameter. Cashgora was differentiated from cashmere by having a lower FC and lower resistance to compression. There were minority effects of colour and fibre diameter variation on resistance to compression of cashmere. The implications of these findings for the identification and use of softer raw materials are discussed.     

Weathering,fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere

Weathering refers to the degradation of wool fibres that occur during growth from exposure of the fleece to sunlight, water and air. Weathering damage to Merino wool reduces quantities of fibre that are harvested, reduces length in both raw and processed wools, reduces spinning performance and dyeing outcomes. This work aimed to aimed to quantify if and to what extent weathering occurred in 38 lots of commercial dehaired white cashmere and cashmere top sourced from traditional and new origins of production and the extent of any association between weathering and tensile strength properties of the dehaired cashmere and cashmere top. The cashmere was tested for physical properties, bundle tenacity and extension, tristimulus values brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) and reflectance. Dye uptake was used as an index of weathering. Linear models, relating to weathering, bundle tenacity and Y-Z were fitted to origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 17.0 μm (13.5–21.3?μm); bundle tenacity of tops, 10.3 cN/tex (8.3–12.9?cN/tex), for dehaired fibre, 10.1 cN/tex (9.1–11.4 cN/tex). Stain uptake varied from 0.92 to 6.34 mg/g fibre indicating a six-fold variation in the extent of weathering. Both the extent of weathering and the bundle tenacity of commercial lots of cashmere were affected by the origin of the cashmere. Increased weathering reduced bundle tenacity, bundle extension, increased the yellowness and reduced reflectance of white cashmere. Bundle tenacity of cashmere declined as fibre diameter variability increased from 20 to 22.5%. For the samples tested, the cashmere from China, Mongolia, Afghanistan and Iran showed more weathering than cashmere from Australia, New Zealand and the USA. The differences in the extent of weathering and of bundle tenacity between cashmere from different origins were of commercial significance.     

羊毛改性对染色性能的影响

研究了羊毛改性对染色性能的影响.测定了改性羊毛、羊毛和羊绒的性能,以及弱酸性染料、中性染料、活性染料在改性羊毛、羊毛和羊绒上的上染速率.结果表明,羊毛经催化氯化处理后,其手感、细度和强力等性能接近羊绒;染色性能得到改善,得色量高于羊毛和羊绒纤维.     

羊绒混纺织物与纯毛织物的服用舒适性分析

文章从舒适的观点分析比较了羊绒／羊毛精混纺织物与纯毛织物的服用性能，并根据羊绒纤维的特性，通过试验对触感舒适和热湿舒适性方面进行了分析。由综合测评结果可知，羊绒混纺织物较之纯毛织物轻柔，手感滑糯，吸湿性和保暖性特别好，弹性好，外观细腻丰满，富有光泽，穿着滑爽舒适。     

羊毛仿山羊绒改性整理的性能分析

采用枯草杆蛋白酶对细羊毛进行改性整理 ,对整理后的羊毛纤维在细度、强度、鳞片形态和表面摩擦特性等方面进行性能分析 ,探讨了羊毛仿山羊绒改性整理的工艺 ,并且取得了较好的效果。