Microbial degradation of cellulose polymers used in cosmetics and toiletries

Cellulose polymers which are commonly found in cosmetics can act as potential targets for microbial attack and sometimes support extensive growth under suitable conditions. As a result, cellulosic substances can be converted from a stiff gel into a running liquid, thereby rendering the cosmetic unfit for use.
To provide an understanding of the biodeterioration of cellulose in cosmetics, this paper reviews the structure of cellulose, mechanism of enzyme degradation and effects of structural properties of cellulose on the rate of hydrolysis. At least three different types of enzymes (exo-β-1, 4-glucanase, endo-β-1,4-glucanase and β-glucosidase) are involved in the degradation of crystalline cellulose. Enzyme production by three fungi belonging to the genera Aspergillus, Fusarium and Penicillium is described.
Dégradation microbienne des polymers de cellulose utilisés dans les produits cosmétiques et de toilette     

Skin irritancy testing of toiletries and cosmetics on novel human models

A brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed. Nouvelles méthodes pour l'évaluation sur l'être humain du pouvoir irritant des produits cosmetiques at d'hygiene     

Adverse effects of cosmetics and toiletries: a retrospective study in the general population

Of 1609 individuals who were interviewed and asked whether they had experienced adverse reactions to cosmetics or toiletry products in the preceding 5 years, 196 (12.2%) claimed to have experienced some such reaction.
Females ( n = 124) mostly attributed their complaints to soap (41%), facial creams (33%), deodorant (25%), shampoo (16%) and eye shadow (11%). Men ( n = 72) complained about adverse effects from soap (49%), aftershave (22%), deodorant (19%) and shower foam (12%). Both in women and in men, most reactions were localized on the face (60% resp. 33%), followed by the hands (19% resp. 21%) and the axillae (18% resp. 14%). The majority of patients could solve the problem by stopping the use of the suspected product and purchasing a different brand. Nevertheless, medical consultation was sought by more than 30% of all patients.
Presumably, the majority of all adverse effects were caused by irritation; contact allergic reactions are infrequent.     

Inhalation testing of toiletries in animals

The purpose of testing is to establish the safety of ingredients to be handled in the factory and of the products to be used by the consumer. Inhalation tests tend to require much time and are expensive; the number of inhalation tests may be reduced by preliminary measurement of the respirable fraction of an aerosol or powder, by toxicity tests on macrophages in culture, and by instillation of suspensions into the lung via the trachea. Inhalation exposures may be in whole body exposure chambers or the head only may be exposed; the techniques are discussed. The criteria of a satisfactory inhalation test are considered and histological features which should be investigated are reviewed. Tests d'inhalation par les animaux des produits de toilette     

数字化颜色空间的描述、规定和使用

到目前为止,丝网印刷及其它形式的彩色图像复制的精确程度仍要依赖于操作者的技术水平,根据不同的承印物、油墨及印刷方式来调整印刷过程才能获得客户所需的色彩。但是在操作中色彩控制能力受到如制版设备、丝网印刷机及工艺流程调节范围的限制,色彩复制仍是很主观的过程,有 １５０年没有做过大的改动了。 随着数字化桌面分色的出现,对色彩的规定、计算及调整已成为复制过程中图像设计最关键的问题,印刷机及其它传统工具的作用已不那么重要。现在丝网印刷的色彩设计涉及艺术和商业等多方面,包括ＰＯＰ、零售点广告、印染纺织品、商标…     

Self-preserving cosmetics

Preservatives are added to products for two reasons: first, to prevent microbial spoilage and therefore to prolong the shelf life of the product; second, to protect the consumer from a potential infection. Although chemical preservatives prevent microbial growth, their safety is questioned by a growing segment of consumers. Therefore, there is a considerable interest in the development of preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics. In these formulations traditional/chemical preservatives have been replaced by other cosmetic ingredients with antimicrobial properties that are not legislated as preservatives according to the Annex VI of the Commission Directive 76/768/EEC and the amending directives (2003/15/EC, 2007/17/EC and 2007/22/EC). 'Hurdle Technology', a technology that has been used for the control of product safety in the food industry since 1970s, has also been applied for the production of self-preserving cosmetics. 'Hurdle Technology' is a term used to describe the intelligent combination of different preservation factors or hurdles to deteriorate the growth of microorganisms. Adherence to current good manufacturing practice, appropriate packaging, careful choice of the form of the emulsion, low water activity and low or high pH values are significant variables for the control of microbial growth in cosmetic formulations. This paper describes the application of the basic principles of 'Hurdle Technology' in the production of self-preserving cosmetics. Multifunctional antimicrobial ingredients and plant-derived essential oils and extracts that are used as alternative or natural preservatives and are not listed in Annex VI of the Cosmetic Directive are also reported.     

Lipopeptides in cosmetics

Lipopeptides are biosurfactants extensively used in cosmetics. The consumption of cosmetics containing lipopeptides is increasing as a result of the exceptional surface properties and diverse biological activities of lipopeptides which facilitate a vast number of applications not only in the pharmaceutics industry which includes cosmetics but also in the food industry. Cosmetics containing lipopeptides are available in various dosage forms according to their beneficial surface properties, which include anti-wrinkle and moisturizing activities and cleansing cosmetics. The microbial production of lipopeptides particularly those with biological and surface activities applicable to cosmetics are summarized based on appropriate studies and patents up to the year 2008 to manage the information and sufficiently review the data.     

基于光谱的颜色复制技木

伴随人类文化需求的不断提高及特定传媒领域的需要，印刷媒体产品正逐步向高、精、尖的高保真方向发展，从而真正实现原稿信息甚至实际场景信息的完全忠实再现。而现今的印刷复制工艺，从根本说都是基于三原色成色，不仅颜色叠印的自由度受到制约，而且采用色度编码方法对颜色进行表示时，还受到标准观察者及光源因素的影响，尤其当色空间不同时，还存在色域的压缩问题，因此根本无法实现高保真印刷复制的要求。     

基于光谱的颜色复制技术

伴随人类文化需求的不断提高及特定传媒领域的需要,印刷媒体产品正逐步向高、精、尖的高保真方向发展,从而真正实现原稿信息甚至实际场景信息的完全忠实再现。而现今的印刷复制工艺,从根本说都是基于三原色成色,不仅颜色叠印的自由度受到制约,而且采用色度编码方法对颜色进行表示时,还受到标准观察者及光源因素的影响,尤其当色空间不同时,还存在色域的压缩问题,因此根本无法实现高保真印刷复制的要求。     

Food legislation

The basis of food law in the United Kingdom, which is primarily intended to protect the consumer, is described. The harmonization of legislation within the EEC, and the function of the Advisory Committees which recommend to Ministers action on food law, are considered.     

出土古玉器的料色和沁色辨析

通过分析古玉器的颜色来鉴别、评估古玉器是古玉器鉴定研究中的一项重要内容。出土古玉器的颜色成因是多方面的,既有玉料本身具有的颜色(作者称之为料色),它由玉石中所含致色元素的成分和质量分数决定;又有玉料被加工成器后因埋藏与周围介质发生作用而变化的颜色(即沁色)。在鉴定实践中不少的鉴定者将玉器的料色误定为沁色。以和田玉为例试图通过玉器的颜色与玉器雕琢纹饰之间的关系来辨别料色与沁色。     

Colour forecasting

Abstract

The underlying principles of colour forecasting now have a history spanning a full century. This issue of Textile Progress is somewhat timely as the challenges that industry face now differ from those of the twentieth century, in particular, the increased need to address sustainability and the increased competiveness of the global marketplace. This Textile Progress provides an overview of the historical context drawing out the importance of the role of colour forecasting in the fashion and textile industries. It provides a detailed analysis of the more-recently established and establishing trend forecasting methods with a view to thinking more innovatively about the potential of colour forecasting. It investigates the effects and impact of colour and trend forecasting with a particular focus on the consequences of the process and system on business, on consumers and on the environment. In reviewing the developments in colour forecasting, we begin with the subjective techniques highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the approaches. The more-objective characteristics that have emerged from new developments and new thinking provide a focus on the potential for greater accuracy in colour forecasting. This issue of Textile Progress explains how and why colour forecasting is an essential component of the business of making and selling fashion garments, through merchandising, retailing and fashion marketing, as well as being important in fashion design and product development processes. Developments affecting the design of colour forecasting systems are shown to draw on marketing theory, though without much consideration for the human-business interface, specifically, colour preferences, colour psychology and cultural meanings of colour. The overall aim of this Textile Progress is to assist an understanding of the colour forecasting process and its contribution to the larger trend forecasting system, and to highlight the challenges the colour forecasting sector faces for a twenty-first century fashion-business strategy. Attention is paid to the colour forecasting process and forecasting as a system, including its application in the design process and skills acquisition. The more-recently established trend forecasting methods are critically analysed, as are previously unpublished contributions to knowledge through original sets of primary research data, and finally potential improvements are suggested.     

试论有色纤维纺纱中的色差控制

针对我国目前棉纺工程中有色纤维纺纱所产生的“成品色差”这一质量问题,分别从原料的选择,棉条重量的控制及条子混棉的生产管理等方面探讨了问题产生的主要原因及解决的办法。