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1. INTRODUCTION In coastal zones, wave propagation in water is considerably affected by the topography of the sea bottom, which may result in changes in the direction and shape of the waves and may cause redistribution of their energy in space, etc. Waves may also lose a certain amount of energy by wavebreaking or by other forms of dissipation. It can be easily seen that wave propagation in shallow waters is a very complicated process resulting from various mechanisms. The dominant mechan…  相似文献   

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