A novel resist technique based on secondary amines for the printing of cotton with reactive dyes

In an earlier paper we have described sulphite‐based resist printing using ink‐jet procedures. This paper describes an alternative approach to sulphite inactivation of vinylsulphone dyes by using secondary amines to inactivate fluoro‐s‐triazine dyes while maintaining the reactivity of the vinylsulphone dyes. Monofluoro‐s‐triazine reactive dyes are padded onto cotton fabrics and then deactivated by ink‐jet printing with a suitable secondary amine formulation to produce a white image on a solid ground colour after appropriate fixation and soap‐off procedures have been undertaken. A coloured image can be achieved by overprinting the resist‐printed areas with a coloured ink formulation containing a β‐sulphatoethylsulphone‐type reactive dye; such dyes form a β‐bis‐alkylaminoethylsulphone dye via reaction with the secondary amine. This latter dye ‘unblocks’ during a mildly acidic steaming process to form the reactive vinylsulphone dye, and so, unlike the monofluoro‐s‐triazine dye, is not deactivated towards subsequent covalent reaction with the cotton substrate.     

Digital alkali resist prints on polyester

In earlier papers we have described sulphite‐based and secondary amine‐based resist printing of cotton using ink‐jet procedures. This paper describes the chemical resist printing of polyester fabrics padded with disperse dyes to create a white image on a coloured background. Polyester grounds have been prepared by the pad‐dry ‘dyeing’ of polyester fabrics with alkali‐clearable disperse dyes, such as a Dianix PC (DyStar) or a Dianix SF (DyStar) dye, and subsequently ink‐jet printed with sodium carbonate based ink formulations to yield a white image on a solid ground following high temperature steaming and appropriate wash‐off procedures. Coloured images have been achieved by a two‐step process whereby the coloured ground fabric was initially printed with an alkali‐based ink and then overprinted in a second step with an illuminating ink formulation containing an alkali stable disperse dye, such as a Dianix AD (DyStar) or Serilene ADS (Yorkshire Chemicals).     

The Use of Disperse Dyes Containing Diester Groups to Produce Discharge Effects on Fully Dyed Lightweight Polyester Fabrics

The chemistry of a range of disperse dyes containing diester groups of carboxylic acids (Dispersol PC dyes) are briefly described. The development of a ‘discharge–resist’ printing method and a true resist technique on 100% polyester using these disperse dyes is then outlined. The introduction of two new auxiliary products (Matexil PN–AD and PN–DG) has now led to the use of these Dispersol PC dyes in a process for the discharge printing of fully dyed lightweight polyester fabrics (generally defined as those fabrics having a weight of 80 g/m² or less and a yarn count per filament of less than 3 dtex). Emphasis is placed on the practical processing conditions necessary to produce these discharge styles and in particular on a new approach to the print thickening system that will enable extremely fine line definition to be achieved.     

The Physical and Chemical Properties of Reactive Dyes and their Effect on Printing Behaviour

The currently available methods of fixation of prints on textiles are reviewed and the influence of the reactivity, diffusion coefficient and substantivity of reactive dyes on their behaviour in printing is described. It is shown how the suitability to the various fixation methods and the stability in alkaline printing paste of reactive dyes can be correlated with the values of reactivity, diffusion coefficient, and substantivity measured by simple techniques. Changes that can be made to the reactivity of a dye by modification of its structure or its application conditions are also illustrated. The influence of hydrolysis of reactive dyes and of breakage of the dye–fibre bond during processing on the fixation achieved is discussed and a method is developed enabling the actual rate of reaction of reactive dyes with cellulose to be calculated.     

活性染料及其真丝绸印染工艺探讨

研究了活性染料对丝绸进行染色和印花的工艺，提高了丝绸染色产品的色牢度、染深性、得色量和提升力。优选了酸浴法、中性浴法和碱浴法染色工艺条件以及印花工艺条件。指出一氟三嗪活性基优于一氯三嗪活性基，双活性基优于单活性基。国产活性染料应在溶解度、配套助剂、染料筛选等应用方面要加强研究。     

Synthesis and Application of Some New Reactive Chlorohydrin Dyes

Azo and phthalocyanine dyes carrying the chlorohydrin group, as the precursor of the reactive epoxy group, were prepared using new catalyzed reactions. The reactive group is attached to the coupling component in some cases and to the diazonium component in other cases. A phthalocyanine dye carrying two reactive groups was also synthesized. The dyeing of cotton, wool and multifibre fabrics was studied, under different dyeing conditions. Various techniques of dyeing and printing were used. Exhaustion and padding methods were investigated for dyeing, and direct, reserve and discharge methods for printing. One–stage and two–stage procedures were employed for both printing and dyeing. It was found that the chlorohydrin reactive dyes prepared in the present work could be applied by nearly all known methods of dyeing and printing on cotton, wool, viscose rayon, nylon and acrylic fibres. The dyeings obtained had satisfactory fastness properties and showed fairly good dye fixation on the substrate.     

Urea/alkali-free printing of cotton with reactive dyes

Urea reduction or elimination in reactive dye print pastes is of ecological interest. Sodium edetate is presented as a complete substitution of urea in the conventional print paste of reactive dyes, namely CI Remazol Black B and Remazol Brilliant Orange 3R using a constant amount of sodium alginate as the thickening agent. Three different print pastes containing urea/NaHCO₃, sodium edetate/NaHCO₃ and sodium edetate were thoroughly investigated. Different factors that may affect the printability of cotton, such as the concentrations of sodium edetate, urea, dye, absence or presence of alkali and steaming time in the prints obtained were evaluated with respect to the dye fixation, colour strength, dye penetration, levelling and the fastness properties. Excellent to good fastness was obtained for all samples irrespective of the print paste used.     

非反应型阳离子助剂在一浴法无盐轧蒸染色工艺中的应用

使用自制的非反应型阳离子助剂对棉织物进行预处理,分别选用活性黄K-RN、活性艳红K-2BP、活性艳蓝KN-R进行一浴法无盐轧蒸染色试验.确定了阳离子助剂处理棉织物的最佳方式和使用的最佳浓度,并与常规有盐染色进行性能对比.结果表明,采用一浴法无盐轧蒸染色对染样的固色率、色光和牢度未产生影响.阳离子助剂的使用能够替代电解质的加入,染料利用率提高25％～40％.棉纤维阳离子化能够在相对较低的温度下进行,提高了该工艺的适用范围,最终达到节能减排的目的.     

Synthesis and dyeing properties of polyvinylamine dyes for cotton

Novel polyvinylamine dyes were designed and synthesised from poly(N‐vinylformamide‐co‐vinylamine) and reactive dyes, then used to dye cotton fibres by the dip‐pad‐steam process, with the dyeing methods being examined in detail. Each polyvinylamine dye was fixed to cotton without a crosslinking agent through covalent bonds formed between the reactive group of the dye and the cotton fibres. A fixation of 99% was achieved, with grades of 4 and 4‐5 wash and dry‐rub fastness, respectively.     

Application of sodium benzoyl thiosulphate from aqueous solution to wool and its effect on substantivity of disperse dyes. Part 1: synthesis and characterisation of sodium benzoyl thiosulphate

The introduction of bulky aryl residues into wool fibres not only enhances their disperse dyeability but also improves their settability, shrink resistance and imparts easy‐care properties. It would be highly desirable for colourists to achieve such effects when dyeing or printing wool from an aqueous solution as wool/polyester blend fabrics could be dyed and printed with the same dye; furthermore, in the case of an all‐wool fabric pretreated with such arylating systems, following dyeing or printing with disperse dyes, dye fixation can be achieved by dry heat procedures. A water‐soluble, fibre‐reactive arylating agent, sodium benzoyl thiosulphate, was therefore synthesised, characterised and its stability to hydrolysis in aqueous media was examined.     

棉纤维化学改性与染色性能研究

棉纤维通过化学改性和交联作用，增加棉纤维与活性染料的反应能力，达到增深和提高染色牢度的目的。棉纤维染色中不仅需要进一步提高活性染料的固色率、改善其各项性能，而且要重视纤维活化改性和交联染色法的研究。     

The dyeing of cotton with phosphonic reactive dyes in alcohols

The poor fixation achieved with phosphonated reactive dyes on cotton in practice, particularly in printing, has prompted a study of the effect of reaction conditions and the use of different diimides to achieve fixation. It has been possible to achieve as much as 95% fixation with a typical dye under suitable application conditions, where decomposition of the diimide can be minimised.     

The printing of polyester/cellulose blends-a new approach

This paper introduces a new dye system for the printing of polyester/cellulose blends. The new system is based on a combination of disperse dyes containing diester groups and reactive dyes containing a monochloro-s-triazinyl reactive group. By reference to published work on the reaction mechanism of monochloro-s-triazinyl reactive dyes with cellulose the development of a new approach to bring about reactive dye fixation in essentially neutral pH conditions is discussed. Practical application details of the new dye system are emphasised.     

The wash-off of dyeings using interstitial water part 2: Bis(aminochlorotriazine) reactive dyes on cotton

2% omf dyeings of three, bis(aminochlorotriazine) reactive dyes on cotton were washed-off using a five-stage process recommended by the dye maker and a novel method that utilised two water rinses and treatment with damp nylon beads. Whilst similar levels of fastness were obtained using four temperatures in the final water rinse stage (ie cold (ambient), 50 °C, 70 °C and 98 °C) of the bead wash-off processes, a final rinse in water at 98 °C imparted levels of staining that were similar to those achieved using the five-stage wash-off process. The depths of shade and colour of the dyeings achieved using the bead wash-off methods were very similar to those obtained for the recommended process. When 5% omf dyeings were washed-off using a bead process that employed a commercial wash-off auxiliary and a cold water final rinse stage, levels of staining and shade change were obtained that were comparable to those secured using a recommended, six-stage, recommended wash-off process. As the beads adsorbed a sizeable amount of vagrant dye that was removed during wash-off, the various bead wash-off processes generated either only one or two coloured rinse liquors compared to the five or six coloured rinse liquors that ensued from the standard wash-off process, thereby constituting a lower effluent load.     

中性素半料的制备及其应用

针对仿蜡防花色泽深、浓、艳的要求,对常用活性染料印花的局限性进行了分析,提出采用以重氮胺酚染料为主的中性素半料,它是经仲胺缩合而成的可溶性重氮胺基化合物与色酚拼混后的产物,在中性汽蒸条件下偶合发色能获得独特的性能与效果。对其应用工艺也进行了简单讨论。     

Technological evaluation of reactive cyclodextrin in cotton printing with reactive and natural dyes

The chemical modification of cotton fabric with reactive cyclodextrin (R‐CD) at different concentrations was carried out to enhance the printability of cotton fabric. The extent of the modification reaction was expressed as %N. Reactive and natural dyes were used to print cotton fabric before and after modification. Printing pastes were applied immediately after preparation or after 24 h of storage. Printing fixation was performed through either steaming or thermal treatment. The effect of the incorporation of R‐CD in the printing paste of unmodified cotton was also studied. The results reveal that the extent of the modification reaction increased with increasing R‐CD concentration and so did the color strength (K/S) of the printed sample regardless of the dye used. The results also revealed that K/S of the R‐CD modified cottons were higher than that of the corresponding unmodified samples regardless of the method of fixation or the time elapsed before printing. On the other hand, the incorporation of R‐CD in the printing pastes of reactive dyes, namely, Cibacron Brown 6R‐P or Remazol Brilliant Red GG, had adverse effects, most probability due to the (a) increasing viscosity of the paste and/or (b) interaction of the reactive dye with R‐CD hydroxyls. The opposite held true when a natural dye was used. Further, the incorporation of R‐CD in the printing pastes had no effect on the rheological type of the pastes or the on overall fastness properties of the prints. Nevertheless, such an incorporation of R‐CD was accompanied by a remarkable increase in the magnitude of the apparent viscosity. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 102: 338–347, 2006     

国产液体活性染料的开发和应用

该文介绍国产液体活性染料的开发和应用。它具有流动性和溶解度佳、适用于喷墨印花和小浴比（1：3）汽雾染色等印染工艺,大大减少印染厂的有色污水,节约能源（电或热能）,改善生产和印染车间劳动条件,方便加料计量自动化。它可以通过纳滤膜装置或物理法使染料脱盐,然后在染料液中选择性加入合适的助剂,如￡．已内酰胺等,非离子表面活性剂、分散剂、pH稳定剂和适量的水,搅拌1小时后,调节pH到4．5～6．5。获得的液体活性染料,在0～25℃可贮存3～6个月,不沉淀,不降低染料强度。     

Innovation and application of dyes with high fixation

Reactive dyes are the main species for cotton dyeing due to their wide range of hue, satisfactory color fastness and facile application method. Aiming at increasing fixation on cotton fibers, benzimidazolone yellow reactive dyes, sulfonamide red reactive dyes and anthraquinone azo blue reactive dyes are designed. The preparation, characterization and application properties of these dyes with high fixation are introduced in detail. In order to achieve dye fixation to near 100%, macromolecular cro...     

One-bath dyeing of polyester/cotton with disperse and bis-3-carboxypyridinium-s-triazine reactive dyes. Part 1: Factors limiting production of heavy shades

Over the last 20 years, selected disperse dyes and bis-3-carboxypyridinium- s -triazine reactive dyes have been widely promoted for the exhaust dyeing of polyester/cotton blends in a one-bath-one-stage ('all-in') process under neutral conditions. However, despite the time and energy savings afforded by this elegant dyeing process, there is a belief in the dyeing industry that economical production is limited to pale and medium depths of shade. In this paper, the two dye classes (disperse dyes on polyester and bis-3-carboxypyridinium- s -triazine reactive dyes on cotton) have been investigated to understand why heavy depths of shade cannot readily be obtained economically using this process.     

Mixture printing pastes from high substitued guar gum and alginates on reactive printing of viscose

The rheology of binary mixtures of two alginates and one carboxymethyl guar has been measured. Two reactive dyes were printed from pastes based on mixtures. The printing and the final print (color yield, levelness, and fabric stiffness) were assessed. Most of the mixtures reacted in accordance with the dye, and interacted especially with one of the dyes for which CMG was used. However, it is seen that mixture of CMG with alginates can be used in reactive printing. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 103: 745–751, 2007