In vivo transepidermal water loss and skin surface hydration in assessment of moisturization and soap effects

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface water loss (SSWL) and water content of the stratum corneum are utilized to assess the hydration effects of moisturizers and soaps. The relationship among these parameters may help differentiating hydration obtained via occlusion or by water-holding in the stratum corneum. Furthermore, skin function (hydration, dehydration, barrier damage) can be studied comparing the data obtained with these techniques. In this study, the effects of glycerol, petrolatum, soaps and commercial moisturizers on the skin are investigated and discussed.     

Real-life use of underwear treated with fabric softeners improves skin dryness by decreasing the friction of fabrics against the skin

Scientific evaluation of fabric softener use on the friction of fabrics and on dry skin in real life is very limited. The coefficient of friction of fabrics was measured with a surface tester using model skin and cotton fabrics. The effects and safety of fabric softener-treated T-shirts on subjects with dry skin were evaluated in real-life conditions in the cold and arid environment. Twenty male volunteers with dry skin used T-shirts without softener for 1 week before day 0 and then wore softener-treated T-shirts for 14 days. Effects were evaluated by clinical grading, subjective symptoms, stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). A significant decrease in the coefficient of friction of fabrics was detected. A significant improvement in SCWC was observed on the torso, waist and shoulder, but no improvement was found on the inner forearm. There was a slight change in TEWL. The visual grading of dryness improved significantly at all sites, but no significant change was found in subjective symptoms. Our results suggest that fabric softener provides benefits to individuals with dry skin because of the decreased friction of the garments against the skin. It is possible that the softener treatment of fabrics contributes to the state of moisturization of the skin and may work in collaboration with the application of moisturizers.     

In vivo measuring of skin softness using the Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer

The bio-mechanical properties of the stratum corneum are of great importance for the subjective perception of skin conditions (dry vs. normal), as well as for its multiple functions. The recently developed Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer allows us to measure objectively the viscoelastic properties of the stratum corneum in vivo and to evaluate, in terms of skin softness, the changes of this parameter induced by the application of emollients.
The principle of the technique, as designed by Christensen et al. , is briefly described in context with our results.
During the probe movement, there was a modification of the skin surface relief: compression of the skin furrows ahead of the moving probe, and extension-flattening of the relief behind the probe.
The variations of the skin softness were studied in context with the reproducibility of the measurements: the coefficient of variation was found to be about 3%. Considerably higher variations were found as related to: the anisotropy of the skin surface relief, various areas of the body, and individual differences.
The effects of emollients and water on the skin softness were studied. Water had a clear effect but of very short duration (around 10 minutes). Water-containing emollients of the type o/w emulsions displayed a distinct long-lasting effect (followed up to 6 hours). Its magnitude was generally higher than that obtained with w/o emulsions. It was found that the emollient's non-volatile components (oil phase) play an important role in the product's softening effect.
In conclusion, results to date have established this technique as a promising tool for studying skin softness in general, and effects of topical applications, new formulae and specific ingredients in particular.
Mesure de la souplesse de la peau avec un Electrodynamomètre     

The spectral stability of several sunscreening agents on stratum corneum sheets

Film layers of seventeen commercially available sunscreen products and sixteen active ingredients on stratum corneum sheets were spectrophotometrically monitored before and after simulated solar irradiation. Fixed irradiation doses were given within the daily terrestrial limits. From the changes in the absorption spectra after irradiation the spectral stability was determined. The spectral stability reflects the photochemical stability and the assay quickly provides an insight in the sunscreen's stability towards (solar) radiation in situ . Good to excellent spectral stability was observed for the benzophenones, paraaminobenzoic acid and its esters, homomenthylsalicylate, guanine, 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulphonic acid (potassium salt) and guiazulene. Moderate spectral stability was observed in case of the cinnamates and 3-[4-methylbenzylidene] camphor.
Poor spectral stability was exhibited by phenylsalicylate and 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane. Among the commercial products good to poor spectral stability was established.
We recommend the performance of this assay on every sunscreen agent or cosmetic formulation which may be exposed to the sun or any other ultra-violet/visible radiation source.     

A new technique for the evaluation of cosmetics effect on mechanical properties of stratum corneum and epidermis in vitro

The mechanical properties of stratum corneum and epidermis have been measured in vitro and a dispersity of approximately 30% to 50% between samples from the same donor has been found. To overcome such a limitation, a technique was developed in order to compare the mechanical properties of the same skin sample before and after treatment. The chosen parameter (initial slope of the stress-strain curve) appeared to be influenced by the topical application of products. A different time response was found with stratum corneum and epidermis reflecting their structural differences.
Une nouvelle technique d'evaluation de l'effet des produits cosmétique sur les propriétés mécaniques du stratum corneum et de l'épiderme humains (etude in vitro )     

Influence of cleansing on stratum corneum tryptic enzyme in human skin

Desquamation in human skin is a well-balanced process of de novo production of corneocytes and their shedding from the skin surface. The proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is an important step in the final desquamation process. In the degradation of these adhesion molecules, the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) plays a key role. In initial studies with extracts of porcine epidermis, SCTE was shown to be inactivated by low concentrations of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). These in vitro findings were supported by in situ results obtained by measuring the release of fluorescent dyes coupled to trypsin-specific substrates incubated on human skin cross-sections. Moreover, in further studies, it could be demonstrated that the SCTE activity in the human horny layer decreases after in vivo application of cleansing products containing SLES. After repeated washing of human volunteers with tap water, a standard market cleansing product (SLES/betaine system) or a new improved cleansing product (SLES/betaine/disodium cocoyl glutamate system), the specific SCTE activity was determined in extracts from the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. It could be shown that after application of the new formula the remaining SCTE activity was significantly higher than after use of the standard market formula. This ex vivo approach has proven to be very helpful for measuring surfactant effects on human skin enzymes. Using this assay, we developed an improved shower gel formula, which leads to a significantly higher skin enzyme activity after application, compared to a standard market formula.     

牵伸速度对PET纺粘纤维凝聚态结构的影响

在纺粘非织造布加工过程中,通过调整牵伸风的速度,制得不同结构的聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)纤维,研究了牵伸风速度对纺粘PET纤维外观形貌、直径、结晶度和取向度的影响。结果表明:牵伸风速度对纤维表观形貌没有影响;随着牵伸风速度的增加,PET纺粘纤维的直径逐渐减小,当牵伸风速度达到一定值后其对纤维直径的影响较小;PET纺粘纤维的结晶度低于15.0%,牵伸风速度对其影响不大;随着牵伸风速度的增加,PET纤维晶区的取向度逐渐增加,当牵伸风速度达到一定值后对其晶区取向度影响较小。     

聚氧化乙烯对大豆分离蛋白静电纺丝影响的研究

初步研究了聚氧化乙烯(PEO)对大豆分离蛋白(SPI)静电纺丝的影响,分析了SPI/PEO共混配比和相应过程参数(电压、溶液流速和接收距离)对共混溶液性质和静电纺丝可纺性的影响,通过扫描电镜对所得纤维形态进行了表征。结果表明,随着溶液中PEO含量的增加,体系的粘度增大,电导率下降,得到的电纺纤维形态均一,直径分布较窄,明显改善了SPI的可纺性;电压、溶液流速和接收距离均对电纺纤维的形成及形貌有一定的影响,三者过高或过低都会导致纤维形貌的变化,形成串珠或颗粒。10wt%SPI/PEO共混溶液的最佳电纺共混比为70/30,电压为15kV,接收距离为10cm,溶液流速为1.5mL/h。      

淀粉接枝聚醋酸乙烯酯纳米粒的制备及其对虾青素稳定性影响

以二羟基二过碘酸合镍(IV)钾作为引发剂,引发醋酸乙烯酯在淀粉上接枝,生成淀粉接枝共聚物。再用三聚磷酸钠作交联剂制备成具有疏水核心、亲水表面的纳米粒。然后采用透析法,将虾青素与纳米粒混合制成虾青素纳米粒。测定淀粉及接枝共聚物的红外光谱、纳米粒的平均粒径、粒径分布、纳米粒形态,并以虾青素的丙酮溶液作为比较,对虾青素纳米粒的稳定性进行测定。结果表明,在不同条件下,虾青素纳米粒比原料的稳定性均有提高。     

Material design using genetic algorithms and preparation of innovative UV-reflecting composite

The neck is a sun-exposed area. It seems to show the symptoms of photo-ageing as well as facial skin in the elderly. However, the physiological study of neck skin has hardly been reported. We examined the change of skin physiological properties at a neck site with ageing for 61 women (18—69 years old) compared with a cheek site. Water content in stratum corneum (SC) was higher, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was lower and the turnover rate of SC judged from corneocyte area was slower at the neck site compared with the cheek site. Skin thickness was thinner, skin extensibility and elasticity were higher, skin grooves were deeper, and anisotropy of skin furrows was lower at the neck site than those at the cheek site. It was shown that the neck was also affected by sunlight but not so much as the cheek from the result of gelatinase activity detected in the tape stripped SC. Skin elasticity decreased with ageing at the neck site as well as the cheek site. Fine wrinkles were remarkably increased in the direction of Langer's line with ageing at the neck. Most skin physiological parameters at the neck showed the value between the cheek (heavily sun-exposed area) and back (not sun-exposed area). From these results, it was considered that not only intrinsic ageing but also photo-ageing affected the neck skin. We developed the prototype of cosmetics corresponding to neck skin physiology based on these results, and evaluated the effectiveness of the prototype product by a consumer test including skin measurement for 4 weeks. After treatment, water content increased, and it gave satisfaction in the skin colour brightness, skin elasticity and skin texture improvements for almost all volunteers. It was concluded that the prototype product was useful in neck skin treatment.     

Functionalized textiles with PUU/limonene microcapsules: effect of finishing methods on fragrance release

The majority of the commercially available microencapsulated fragrance systems with interest for textile applications are based on phenol–formaldehyde/melamine–formaldehyde resins. Recognized human health problems concerning formaldehyde emissions led to the use of poly(urethane–urea) (PUU) systems. In this work, fabrics were impregnated with PUU microcapsules containing limonene produced by interfacial polymerization. To aid the microcapsule impregnation, a specific binder was used followed by a drying and thermofixation process. The textiles were then subjected to abrasion and dry cleaning tests. Fragrance release was analysed for different binder to microcapsule ratios. SEM images of the impregnated samples indicate good adhesion of the microcapsules to the fabric fibres, but some capsule breakage was observed. Fragrance release tests were followed by GC–FID–HS and showed good resistance to abrasion tests with 30% of the initial limonene detected after 9000 abrasion cycles. A lower resistance was observed for the dry cleaning tests, although 20% of the limonene was still present after five dry cleaning cycles.     

Hydration of heat-treated soy protein isolate and its effect on the molten flow properties at an elevated temperature

The relationship between the flow properties of soy protein isolate (SPI) at 140°C, measured using an extrusion viscometer, and changes in the hydration state were investigated. The state of the water in SPI was analysed by measurement of the freezable water content using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and by spin-spin relaxation rate (R₂) measurements using pulsed nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The dependence of the flow properties on the state of water was indicated by the correspondence between the water content at which the flow characteristics of molten SPI changed, and the critical water content indicated by DSC measurement of the minimum freezable water content, and by the inflection point in NMR measurement of the spin-spin relaxation rate (R₂).     

鲑鱼皮明胶水解物的抗氧化活性及其对细胞氧化损伤的保护作用

采用碱性蛋白酶、木瓜蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶水解鲑鱼皮明胶,得到水解度为4.7%到13.5%的7个明胶水解物,分别评价明胶水解物对自由基的清除能力。明胶水解物(0.5、1、2mg/mL)预先作用BRL大鼠肝细胞2h后,通过H2O2(5mmol/L)诱导氧化损伤,分别测定细胞存活率、乳酸脱氢酶(LDH)、丙二醛(MDA)和谷胱甘肽(GSH)等细胞内抗氧化产物的含量变化。结果表明,明胶水解物的抗氧化活性随着水解度的增大呈增强趋势。明胶水解物对细胞具有保护作用,可显著提高细胞存活率,降低LDH渗出量和MDA生成量,且存在一定的剂量关系,但细胞中GSH含量变化不显著;7个明胶水解物对H2O2诱导肝细胞损伤保护时,细胞存活率与水解物的体外抗氧化活性大小显著正相关,而LDH渗出量和MDA生成量与水解物的体外抗氧化活性大小负相关。      

Relative hopane content confirming the mineral origin of hydrocarbons contaminating foods and human milk

Hopanes, triterpenoid hydrocarbons formed under geological conditions, were analysed to confirm the mineral origin of the unresolved complex mixtures of hydrocarbons observed in the gas chromatography with flame ionization detection chromatograms of human milk and certain foodstuffs. The 'relative hopane content' (RHC) is introduced, i.e. it is the area ratio of the sum of the hopanes and the paraffins in the same segment of the chromatogram. The RHC in various mineral oil products (motor oils, hydraulic oils, lubricating oils, Vaseline) was 3.4%, with a relative standard deviation of 19%. The RHC determined in samples of vegetable oils, mussels and clams as well as of human milk containing an unresolved complex mixture of hydrocarbons was in the same range, confirming that these samples were contaminated by mineral oil material.     

海星中皂苷总含量测定方法的研究

为了对海星中的总皂苷进行含量测定,本研究工作利用海星总皂苷能与香草醛-硫酸体系显色的特点,以提纯海星皂苷D262为标准品,26%香草醛乙醇溶液和75%硫酸为显色剂,用分光光度法对海星总皂苷的含量进行了测定,并系统研究了测定过程中的各种条件,确定了一种快速、简单、准确的海星总皂苷含量测定方法,标准曲线相关系数为0.99978。用此方法测得青岛海域罗氏海盘车和海燕中的皂苷总含量分别为0.0251%和0.0313%。相对标准偏差(RSD)分别为0.55%和0.33%,平均回收率分别为99.31%和97.57%。     

蔗糖多酯的合成研究进展

蔗糖多酯（SPE）是一种新兴的功能性食品添加剂,具有广阔的发展前景。它作为一种新的脂肪替代品,在不久的将来必定会在食品工业中得到大规模的推广和应用。本文综述了蔗糖多酯的营养保健功能、工业用途和合成方法的国内研究进展情况,提出了蔗糖多酯的开发设想。     

沙葱提取物抑制小鼠高脂血症作用的研究

目的 探究沙葱(Allium Mongolicum Regel)乙醇提取物抑制实验小鼠高脂血症形成的作用。方法 采用高脂饲料诱导小鼠建立高脂血症模型。用昆明种雌性小鼠随机分为对照组、高脂饲料空白模型组和沙葱剂量组,沙葱剂量组是在高脂饲料中每克分别添加0.025 mL/g、0.075 mL/g和0.15 mL/g的沙葱提取物(相当于0.25 g、0.75 g和1.5 g新鲜沙葱),分别为沙葱低剂量组、中剂量组和高剂量组。实验持续6周,每周称量小鼠体重,每2周采血一次,检测血脂相关指标,计算对照组、高脂饲料空白模型组和沙葱各剂量组的动脉粥样硬化指数(AI)和血脂综合指数(LCI)。结果 用高脂饲料成功建立高脂血动物模型;从第二周开始,相对于空白组小鼠,沙葱中、高剂量组小鼠总胆固醇(TC)、甘油三酯(TG)、低密度脂蛋白胆固醇(LDL-C)、AI、LCI值均有不同程度的降低。在第六周时,与空白组相比,高剂量组小鼠TC、TG、LDL-C、AI、LCI分别下降了 36.25%、58.79%、37.78%、54.98%、78.61%。结论 沙葱提取物可有效抑制高脂饲料小鼠血浆TC、TG、LDL-C,和AI、LCI的升高,可抑制实验小鼠高脂症的形成,其降血脂作用表现出一定的量效关系和时效关系,有可能预防并减少动脉粥样硬化的发生。     

苦荞麦粉乙醇提取物抗氧化性及芦丁受热变化的研究

运用高效液相色谱仪、β -胡萝卜素 -亚油酸乳化体系热自动氧化法、DPPH游离基清除法 ,对受热处理的产自重庆城口县苦荞麦粉的 5 0 %乙醇提取物的芦丁含量和抗氧化活性进行了研究。结果表明 :蒸煮使芦丁的含量显著减少 (p <0 .0 5 ) ,从 6 0 .11降至 11.91mg干重 / 10 0g ;而其抗氧化活性值 (antioxidantactivity ,AA)也发生了明显的变化 ,加热前后分别为 92 .91%和 86 .14 %。