Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products

Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory and anti‐microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti‐ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti‐ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.     

The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients

The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities. Secondary metabolites isolated from macroalgae, including carotenoids and polyphenols, have demonstrated antioxidant, anti‐ageing and anti‐inflammatory activities. In addition, marine extremophilic bacteria have recently been shown to produce bioactive exopolymeric molecules, some of which have been commercialized. Available data on their activities show significant antioxidant, moisturizing and anti‐ageing activities, but a more focussed investigation into their mechanisms and applications is required. This review surveys the reported biological activities of an emerging and growing portfolio of marine molecules that show promise in the treatment of cosmetic skin problems including ultraviolet damage, ageing and cutaneous dryness.     

洋葱皮黄酮微胶囊技术研究

通过制备洋葱皮黄酮微胶囊,以提高洋葱皮黄酮的稳定性。实验以β-环糊精为壁材,研究了分子包埋法制备微胶囊工艺中不同因素对微胶囊化包埋率的影响。结果表明:芯材与壁材的最佳配比为1∶11.49,搅拌时间60.6min,搅拌温度61℃。在此条件下,产品微胶囊化效率达到41.26%。     

Lipoprotein creams: utilization of multifunctional ingredients for the preparation of cosmetic emulsions with excellent skin compatibility

Lipoproteins are plant-derived surface-active biopolymers, which act as emulsifying as well as viscosity-enhancing agents in oil-in-water emulsions. Depending on the degree of hydrolization, lipoproteins are dispersible or even soluble in water. In the presence of low to medium polar oils, lipoproteins are adsorbed and align at the oil-water interface, whereas in mixtures with high polar oils the lipoproteins are repelled from the oil-water interface. The water-dispersible lipoproteins show higher interfacial activity than the hydrolysates. Lipoproteins bear a negative electric charge in aqueous dispersions at pH 6.5, which is probably the reason for the stabilization of oil droplets against coalescence. Lipoprotein creams were characterized in terms of particle size, rheology, and emulsion stability against sedimentation, which was evaluated by a near-infrared sedimentometer. After topical application, emulsion stability breaks down and an emulsion film is formed on the skin surface. Lipoprotein creams cause a distinct increase in skin pliability and skin moisture and show excellent skin compatibility. In a home use test the panelists appreciated the cosmetic and caring properties of the lipoprotein cream.     

苦荞麦麦皮粉中黄酮的提取工艺条件研究

采用乙醇溶液浸提、水溶液浸提、乙醇抽提3种方法提取苦荞麦麦皮粉中的黄酮类化合物。结果表明,乙醇溶液浸提的最佳提取工艺条件是A2B2C2D3,即用20倍75%乙醇在60～65℃下浸提4h;水浸提的最佳工艺条件是A1B2C3,即用20倍水量在50～55℃下浸提4h;乙醇溶液抽提的最佳工艺条件是95%的乙醇回流抽提10h。     

An integrated approach to optimizing skin delivery of cosmetic and pharmaceutical actives

The academic literature on skin delivery provides countless examples of scientific insights into specific aspects of the overall process. For the practical formulator, however, it is difficult to know how to combine such insights in a way that fits into the realities of commercial formulations. In this study, five key principles are combined into an integrated approach that can be applied to real-world formulations. Given the complexities of skin science, the integrated approach cannot be expected to be highly precise. Instead, it is intended as a way for a formulation team to balance the many conflicting issues. The predictions are sufficiently specific to be examined by those with the appropriate analytical resources and data on formulation efficacy. It is hoped that such challenges will allow the approach to be refined for the future.     

Headspace analysis study of evaporation rate of perfume ingredients applied onto skin

Diffusion of perfume ingredients from skin or hair is measured using an original method based on dynamic headspace technology. This has been used for pure odorants, fine fragrances, as well as for perfumed cosmetic applications such as soaps, creams or shampoos, in order to characterize diffusion processes and air/skin or air/hair partitioning. Accordingly, a special collection system, applied on the inner face of the forearm, has been developed, allowing the adsorption of diffusing organic vapours from skin onto Tenax (poly-diphenyl phenylene oxide) with a controlled air flow rate. A simple model composition containing eleven volatile synthetic odorants was prepared in an alcoholic matrix and the solution was applied onto the skin. The diffusion rate of the different components was measured by determining the concentration of each in the gas phase versus time. Conversely, the same experiment was effected by the application of an alcoholic solution of each individual component. In this manner, the relative diffusion from skin of the components alone or mixed was compared using the same experimental technique. The effect of a musky component was also tested. Both compositions (with and without musk) were then applied in a soap base. Thus, following a rigorous protocol, the forearm was washed with the perfumed soap and rinsed with water before collection of the headspace. The results show the different diffusion rates of the individual odorants. In particular, components evaporate slower from the skin when they have been applied from a soap bar compared to when they have been applied from alcoholic solution. We also present results describing the characterization of skin types using a panel comprised of 80 people (40 females and 40 males); amount of sebum, hydration and pH were systematically measured on different parts of the face, the neck as well as the outer and inner faces of the forearm. The panelists were then classified into different sub-groups taking into account these parameters. It should be noted that the foregoing results were obtained on an ‘average’skin type.     

单花种蜂蜜植物源黄酮标记物的研究进展

利用蜂蜜中特征成分来鉴别和标识不同种类单花种蜂蜜的植物源及其产地是当前蜂蜜研究的热点。文中介绍了黄酮化合物作为单花种蜂蜜植物源标记物的研究进展,旨在为我国单花种蜂蜜的溯源及其质量控制提供参考。     

A study of the penetration of five novel synthetic steroids through hairless mouse skin in vitro

The change in the physiochemical properties of topical corticosteroids by addition of one or more chemical substituents is probably one of the most important factors affecting the activity and bioavailability of the steroid. During work on developing new steroids five synthetic steroids were tested for their ability to pass through freshly excised hairless mouse skin placed in diffusion cells at 33 1°C. Analysis of the compounds was made using high performance liquid chromatography. The presence of flourine at carbon 9, in the chemical grouping at carbon 17, or the addition of a pentyl group was found to increase the penetration of the steroid through the skin.     

Management of diabetic complications through fruit flavonoids as a natural remedy

Diabetes mellitus is a global disorder, and a major issue for health care systems. The current review outlooks the use of fruit flavonoids as natural remedy in the prevention of diabetes mellitus. The onset of diabetes mainly depends upon genetics and lifestyle issues. Currently used therapeutic options for the control of diabetes, like dietary amendments, oral hypoglycemic drugs, and insulin, have their own limitations. Fruit flavonoids possess various antidiabetic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant potentials and act on various cellular signaling pathways in pancreas, white adipose tissue, skeletal muscle, and liver function, which in result induces antidiabetic effects. Recently, antidiabetic effect of fruit flavonoids has been studied using various animal models and clinical trials. Research studies revealed a statistically significant potential of fruit flavonoids in managing the altered glucose and oxidative metabolisms in diabetes. Unlike synthetic antidiabetic agents, fruit flavonoids manage diabetes without compromising cellular homeostasis thereby posing no side effects. Further studies are required in purification and characterization of different fruit flavonoids with respect to their beneficial effect for diabetic patients.     

微波法提取西南委陵菜黄酮及其抗氧化活性的细胞模型法评价

利用微波法以乙醇作为提取剂提取了西南委陵菜黄酮,考察了乙醇浓度、料液比、提取温度、微波功率和提取时间对西南委陵菜黄酮提取得率的影响。结果表明,微波法提取西南委陵菜黄酮的最佳条件是乙醇浓度50%、料液比1∶30、提取温度60℃、微波功率400W、提取时间5min。黄酮的最佳得率为5.68%。西南委陵菜黄酮在结肠癌细胞HT-29和小鼠巨噬细胞RAW264.7两种细胞中表现出明显的抗氧化活性,其抗氧化性随浓度增加递增。      

响应面优化孔雀草悬浮细胞总黄酮的提取工艺

以孔雀草叶片为外植体诱导愈伤组织并进行悬浮培养,测定了悬浮细胞的总黄酮含量。通过单因素实验及响应面分析,研究了固液比、乙醇浓度、提取温度和提取时间对黄酮产量的影响。实验结果表明,从孔雀草悬浮细胞中提取总黄酮的最佳优化工艺条件为:以72%乙醇为浸提溶剂,固液比1∶25g/m L,提取时间3.2h,提取温度59℃,在此条件下总黄酮得率理论值为21.49%,验证值为21.37%,验证值与理论值间的相对误差为0.12%。