叠褶在服装造型中的应用

针对叠褶立体造型手法在服装设计与工艺中的应用技巧的刻板、单一等问题,对叠褶的基本形式与构成进行了分析,归纳了叠褶的不同分类和造型特征。通过实验、实证论述了叠褶造型变化与创新的思路方法,分别阐述了叠褶的形态变化、聚集变化、扭曲变化、旋转变化所产生的不同形态效果。通过对各类叠褶应用的具体案例进一步解析了叠褶在服装立体造型中的理念表达及应用效果,总结了叠褶用于服装上应该注意的工艺制作要点及应用规律与技巧,深入探讨了叠褶在服装造型中的构成技术与衍生形态。从创新实践中解读叠褶的造型方法与设计思维,总结褶饰的应用规律与技巧,拓展其应用领域。     

波形褶在优雅风格服装中的设计和艺术表现

波形褶是服装造型中重要的表达元素,在优雅风格时装和礼服中的运用体现得尤为明显,它不仅赋予了服装更丰富的装饰效果和视觉感受,也使得这一风格特征的服装更具高贵典雅的女性气质。以波形褶的造型特点和实际设计运用为研究对象,通过圆裙计算法制作以波形褶为主要表达元素的优雅风格礼服,展现出层次、节奏和韵律的美感。     

浅析现代服装设计中的“褶”之美

＂褶＂是服装中的设计元素之一,在设计服装时对衣褶的处理与变化是常用的设计手法。本文从服装设计中的细节入手,分析了裥褶的形成原由,以及对现代服装设计的各种影响。文中深入分析了褶的构成原理、应用方式以及工艺的处理。     

机器褶与手工褶的设计组合艺术

从形态特征的角度出发将机器褶及手工褶进行分类,阐述各类褶皱的肌理特征与设计特征,并通过案例分析法深入研究机器褶与手工褶设计组合的原则及形式,强调两种成褶方法的设计组合可提升服装的艺术审美性。选择服装品牌-Janetwear2013年春夏采用工字褶设计的十款产品为研究对象,分析工字褶与各类手工褶的设计组合形式及对应的服装风格,以该品牌的固定消费群对研究对象的反应为标准进行评价。结果表明：采用机器褶、手工褶设计组合手法的服装产品风格趋向多元化,受消费者欢迎程度大于使用一种类型褶皱进行设计的服装产品,具备市场潜力及商业价值。     

压褶服装“一衣多穿”的形态设计

提出压褶服装设计中"一衣多穿"的创作概念,将压褶服装的形态设计分为实形态及虚形态,分析形态上的设计转换特征对于压褶服装形成"一衣多穿"式外观的关键性作用。通过案例分析法,将能够引起压褶服装"一衣多穿"式穿法变化的空间形态设计进行了归纳,分别从肌理、结构、廓型、局部及细节的形态特征入手,结合品牌服装——Janetwear设计创作案例,逐一阐述空间形态设计与着装状态之间的关系。主张压褶服装设计"一衣多穿"式创作手法的采用应在形态塑造的基础上,注重结合时尚语境特征进行设计,以使该类设计作品满足艺术审美性的同时兼具市场价值。     

褶饰在袖型结构设计中的表现

文章对袖型设计中的褶饰进行研究,寻找褶饰设计与衣袖的关系。从其产生的部位出发,对设计手法、以及产生的效果作分类举例说明,为探究袖型褶饰设计应用规律提供更多的借鉴。研究结果表明,通过褶饰的运用,在美化、装饰服装时能达成更多的风格,起到了重要的作用。设计师以此能拓宽设计思路,可以将袖型褶饰作为画龙点睛局部设计,也能围绕服装造型设计全局作为从属地位展开设计,更好的为主体服务。     

褶在Lolita服装中的运用研究

主要分析缩褶、排褶、工字褶和素鸡对Lolita服装的服装版型、装饰效果和服装风格的影响,使Lolita服装在原有造型上增添功能性及创意性色彩。     

雷腾纹奔

本作品的设计灵感来源于广东雷州古民居建筑的装饰纹样艺术。提取古民居建筑上的鱼纹、水波纹、古钱纹、团寿纹等纹样进行创新变化组合设计,再与现代服装流行设计趋势相融合,运用于女装设计中。整个系列的作品采用局部不对称的解构款式,抽褶、叠褶、荷叶边褶的工艺手法穿插,色彩上以黄色、灰色为主调,红色、黑色、绿色为辅助色,在服装的下摆、袖子、正身处装饰雷州古民居建筑的鱼纹组合图案,体现了对雷州传统古民居装饰纹样艺术传承性与设计的创新性。     

服装中抽褶的结构设计

以实例介绍了服装中抽褶的结构设计方法.制作抽褶时移褶法和加褶法既可单独运用也可结合运用.服装抽褶具有功能性和装饰性的效果,广泛运用于上衣、裙子、袖子等的服装部件的设计中.     

服装造型设计与结构设计的相关性探讨

探讨了结构设计和造型塑造的关系及设计的主要方法,强调了艺术造型能力以及空间意识的重要性,分析分割线、褶的形式,分割线、褶与结构设计结合的形式。服装造型设计与结构技术手段的融合,服装的结构设计与造型款式关系,为提升服装作品的内涵和品质提供一定的参考经验。研究表明:服装设计的创新在某种意义上是服装结构设计的创新和服装造型设计的创新,要满足各种服装的造型设计就需将结构设计融入到造型设计中,利用结构技术的实施来完成不同的服装造型。     

荡领造型的影响因素分析

采用5种性能不同的面料,分别测量出它们的厚度、悬垂性、面密度、抗弯刚度等物理性能.在结构设计中以剪开量的不同为参考因素,用不同面料制作连身肩部无褶的荡领,并对其进行褶皱测量.根据面料性能、剪开量及褶皱测量的数据,分析面料的性能和结构参数对荡领造型的影响.结果显示:荡领的褶皱造型与剪开量有密切关系;同种面料,荡领褶皱的数...     

Fabric objective measurement and drape

This issue of Textile Progress reviews the origins of fabric objective measurement through its research and development phases to its current use in research and industry. It then examines, in greater detail, the use of fabric objective measurement (FOM) methods for the measurement and prediction of fabric drape. Such prediction has become increasingly important in recent times, due to the push from the fashion industry for accurate three-dimensional (3-D) simulation and animation of apparel in its various forms, to allow fashion designers to visually prototype their garment creations without the need for the tedious and time-consuming steps involved in real-garment prototyping. The demand for accurate 3-D simulation and animation is occurring in the face of an ever-increasing variety of fabric types, which means that drape measurement methods must become more sensitive and more widely applicable than has been the case to date. The authors, in the light of this review and their own research experiences with fabric drape, offer the view that the measurements taken by existing methods of FOM and drape are unlikely to provide the accuracy and wide applicability required for realistic on-screen evaluation of apparel, not least because in a garment, fabric is neither draped nor supported horizontally in the way that the fabric is configured in the test methods.     

扎染中的褶皱艺术

从扎染的定义入手,阐明了扎染所具有的色晕、褶皱、作品唯一性的独特魅力;以扎染的褶皱展开论述,探讨了在传统扎染基础上发展起来的现代扎染.利用高温定型技术可使扎染服装呈现永久的褶皱,更具空间感与艺术性.     

模糊取向服装结构的立体裁剪实现方法

文章初步探讨了模糊取向服装设计概念在立体裁剪中的应用,总结了创意立体裁剪逆向设计的整个思维过程,在此基础上,例举了模糊取向立裁设计实例并对其展开了进一步的分析,指出了该方法在立裁创作构想中的可行性和重要性。激发新的创作形式和灵感,开阔服装设计新思维。     

A novel approach for simulation of curling behavior of knitted fabric based on mass spring model

Edge curling is a unique property of knitted fabrics which affects on fashion such as using upper and side curling in cloth design. The purpose of this research is to present a new method to simulate drape behavior of knitted fabric considering difference between single and double jersey knitted fabrics. To this point, at first the bending and torsion moments that applied on the fabric edges and caused curling in single knitted fabric are determined. Also it demonstrated that these moments will be neutralized in double knitted and as the results, leads to a non-curling structure. Then, using the mass spring model, curling shape in fabric wale and course directions are simulated. To show efficiency of the proposed model, real 3D shape of single knitted fabric is compared with experimental results. Also, using the proposed model, the drape behaviors of single and double jersey knitted fabrics hanging from two fixed corners with different properties are simulated and then extend to simulation of skirt. Results of simulation are compared with 3D shapes of actual drape behavior in fabric samples which are achieved by depth camera. The simulated results show good agreement with 3D shapes of actual fabrics.     

织物悬垂性能预测与评价系统的设计与实现

针对现有悬垂性能测试系统与评价体系的现状与需求,研究了基于B/S结构的织物悬垂性能预测与评价系统,论述了系统的总体架构分析设计、后台数据库建立、功能算法的实现,以及系统的详细设计过程和系统实现过程等.介绍了基于自适应动量学习的BP预测算法,实现从织物规格参数到悬垂性能指标的非线性预测;以及基于FPCM的模糊聚类算法.完成织物悬垂性能的客观评价.本系统实现了纤维、纱线及织物相关性能与织物悬垂性能指标的查询,以及从已知织物组织结构参数到悬垂性能指标的预测,最终实现对悬垂性能优劣的客观全面评价.     

泡泡袖袖山褶皱凸起量的影响因素

探讨面料性能和袖山剪开量对泡泡袖造型效果的影响。采用5种性能迥异的面料,分别测量出其厚度、悬垂性、面密度、硬挺度等物理性能。结构设计中,在原型袖袖山处加放不同的参数,绘制泡泡袖样板;以袖山褶皱凸起量为主要因素,测量相关数据,并分析得出结论：当袖山剪开量偏小和中等时,面料的厚度和面密度对褶皱凸起量影响最大;当袖山剪开量偏大时,面料悬垂率越大,褶皱凸起量越小;面料性能一定时,褶皱凸起量的大小随着袖山剪开量的增大而增大。     

Enhancing accuracy of drape simulation. Part I: Investigation of drape variability via 3D scanning

The objective of this two part paper is to present a method of enhancing accuracy of fabric drape simulation using commercially available software. In Part I, we report results of an investigation of drape variability for a set of fabrics having varied mechanical properties, an essential step in defining accuracy for drape simulation. Results illustrate that fabric drape behaviour is highly variable and thus provide no single drape configuration to target with simulation. Development of a revolutionary method for capturing drape of actual fabrics and measuring that drape in a virtual three-dimensional (3D) environment is also presented. The method allows identical drape measurement processes to be implemented for actual and simulated fabrics and provides opportunity for use of additional measures to assess fabric drape in three dimensions. The accomplishments presented in this paper are utilized to demonstrate, in Part II, development of a relationship that enhances realism of particle model simulations generated using the commercial drape simulation software.     

麂皮绒主要物理性能的灰色关联分析

针对7种不同规格的麂皮绒织物,测试其断裂强力和伸长、顶破强力、耐磨性、悬垂性、折皱回复性等性能指标,分析结构参数对其性能的影响;通过灰色关联分析,得出麂皮绒的结构参数与织物拉伸强力、耐磨性、悬垂性、抗折皱回复性的灰色关联序,为新型麂皮绒织物的设计和开发提供参考。     

Investigation of fabric drape-flexural rigidity relation: modified fabric drape coefficient

Abstract

The drape is an important characteristic of textile fabrics. Several studies have been concerned with the mechanism of fabric drapability and the methods of its measurements. In this study, a new drape coefficient ‘DCM’, evaluating the shape of the fabric drape, is defined in terms of the drape projection, the shape and the number of the folds and the drape angle. The drape of fabric samples with different weft densities and weaves structures was tested. The new formula to express the drape coefficient, taking into consideration the fabric flexural rigidity, was developed. The analysis of the experimental results indicated that the modified drape coefficient is highly correlated with fabric flexure rigidity and other fabric structure properties than the other known formulas.