Influence of the molecular mass of chitosan on shrink-resistance and dyeing properties of chitosantreated wool

Wool fabrics were treated with the biopolymer chitosan under conditions which conferred shrinkresistance and dyeing improvement. In order to enhance chitosan absorption in wool, two different oxidative chemical pretreatments, hydrogen peroxide and permonosulphuric acid, were performed on wool fabrics prior to chitosan application. Chitosans of three different molecular masses, but with the same acetylation degrees of, were applied to unpretreated and oxidated wool and the influence of the molecular mass of chitosan and the oxidative pretreatment on shrink-resistance and dyeing behaviour was assessed. In conclusion, both molecular mass and oxidative pretreatment exert an influence on shrink-resistance. However, dyeing behaviour depends only on the presence of chitosan on wool fibre.     

壳聚糖在活性染料染羊毛织物上的应用工艺探讨

本文对壳聚糖处理过的羊毛织物用活性蓝BET染色工艺进行了探讨.讨论了壳聚糖脱乙酰度、壳聚糖浓度对羊毛染色性能的影响,并比较了经壳聚糖处理与未处理羊毛染色性能的差异.结果表明,提高处理液中壳聚糖的浓度或脱乙酰度都能提高活性染料的固色率,提高织物表面色深值K/S,而且对染色样的各项牢度影响不大.     

Dyeing of natural fibres from perfluoro-polyether reverse micelles in supercritical carbon dioxide

The dyeing of natural fibres from a reverse-micellar system in supercritical carbon dioxide has been investigated using ammonium carboxylate perfluoropolyether as surfactant. Protein fibres such as silk and wool were satisfactorily dyed in deep shades with conventional acid dyes without special pretreatment. Exhaustion was excellent. It was however found that on these fibres the performance of acid dyes was strongly influenced by temperature and carbon dioxide density. Conventional reactive dyes in this system were adsorbed on cotton, even in the absence of dyeing auxiliaries, but the fixation of the dye was not satisfactory. Compared with supercritical dyeing methods reported previously, it was found in this study that the temperature and pressure required were significantly lower.     

Citric acid used as a crosslinking agent for the grafting of chitosan onto woolen fabric

Modification of woolen fabrics was done by the grafting of low‐molecular‐weight deacetylated chitosan in the presence of citric acid as a crosslinking agent with the pad–dry cure method at different conditions (times and temperatures). The add‐on of chitosan and the optimum conditions were determined. The improved properties of modified wool by chitosan were evaluated with the urea bisulfite solubility test, crease recovery angle, yellowness index, and scanning electron microscopy. The dyeing properties of modified wool fabrics were studied with acid and reactive dyes. The biocidal activities of the modified and unmodified wool samples were evaluated and compared against some species of microorganisms, including Escherichia coli (Gram negative), Staphylococcus aureus (Gram positive), Candida albicans, and Aspergillus flavus. © 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2012     

One‐bath union dyeing of a modified wool/acrylic blend with acid and reactive dyes

Pretreated wool/acrylic fibre was obtained by a facile amidoximation process. Fibre characterisation (nitrogen content, tensile strength, shrinkage, infrared spectra and X‐ray diffraction) proved the success of the pretreatment. Union dyeing of wool/acrylic fabrics with acid and reactive dyes, namely CI Acid Red 40, CI Acid Blue 25, CI Reactive Red 194 and CI Reactive Blue 25, was obtained using a one‐bath dyeing process. Different factors that may affect the dyeability of the blend fibre, such as dyebath pH, liquor ratio, temperature, time and dye concentration, were evaluated with respect to the dye exhaustion, fixation, colour strength, levelling and fastness properties. Excellent to good fastness was obtained for all samples, irrespective of the dye used. The result of the investigation offers a new viable method for union dyeing of wool/acrylic fibres in a one‐dyebath process.     

Recent Developments in the Dyeing of Stretch Materials

At the present time, the preferred method for dyeing nylon-wool stretch fabrics is to use selected acid dyes for both fibres in conjunction with a bifunctional dyebath assistant that allows easy control of levelling as well as of the depth of colour on the two fibres. A product of this type, viz. Erional PW (Gy), is discussed in detail. This new dyeing assistant is also useful when dyeing blends containing elastomeric polyurethane fibres together with nylon or nylon and wool.     

Dyeing natural fibres in supercritical carbon dioxide using a nonionic surfactant reverse micellar system

A reverse micellar system in supercritical carbon dioxide has been developed as a dyeing medium. Water-soluble dyes such as reactive dyes and acid dyes could be sufficiently solubilised in the interior of a specially constituted reverse micelle. Protein fabrics, silk and wool, were satisfactorily dyed even in deep shades with conventional acid dyes without any special pretreatment. Cotton cellulose fabric was also dyed with conventional reactive dyes when the electrostatic force of repulsion between dye and cotton was eliminated. Compared to previously proposed supercritical dyeing methods, dyeing of fabrics with this system could be performed at low temperatures and pressures in a short time.     

One-bath dyeing of wool/acrylic blends with reactive cationic dyes based on monofluorotriazine

A series of reactive cationic dyes containing the monofluorotriazine structure has been synthesised and their dyeing behaviour on wool, acrylic and a 50:50 wool/acrylic blend studied using a one-bath method. The results indicate that reactive cationic dyes having this structure give a high level of exhaustion and fixation on these fibres. Fastness properties on the wool/acrylic blend were also in general very good.     

Iron Complexed Acid Mordant Dyes and Their Application on Nylon 6 and Wool

The replacement of chromium (III) by safer iron (II) has been investigated, using three commercial azo acid mordant dyes. These dyes have been applied to nylon 6 and wool fabrics and the dye exhaustion has been calculated at different temperatures. Color properties and fastness to light, washing and rubbing have been described. The characterization of the unmetallized and metallized dyes was investigated by HPLC analysis, thin layer chromatography, and UV/Vis spectroscopic techniques. Lightfastness shows that Fedye3 is a strong candidate for dyeing nylon 6 and wool fabrics with high lightfastness.     

Differential dyeing of wool fabric with metal‐complex dyes after ultraviolet irradiation

Experiments were conducted to investigate the ultraviolet irradiation of wool fabric as a pretreatment for differential dyeing. Wool fabric was irradiated using a medium‐pressure mercury lamp in order to obtain, on the irradiated area, increased dye uptake under the same dyeing conditions as untreated wool. The chemical modification of the fibre surface as a result of ultraviolet irradiation was confirmed by an increase in metal ion absorption and hydrophilicity, in agreement with Fourier Transform‐infrared–attenuated total reflectance spectra, although scanning electron microscopy showed that the fibre morphology was unaffected. A selection of 1:1 metal‐complex dyes was used to show the maximum colour difference between irradiated and untreated areas of the fabric. The experiments focused on two effects: a double face with the same shade but different depths (greater depth on the treated side), and a double face with different shades. The latter effect was achieved by dyeing the irradiated fabrics with mixtures of acid and metal‐complex dyes. Rubbing and washing fastness evaluations at 50 °C confirmed that the dyeings after irradiation with the selected 1:1 metal‐complex dyes scored identically to conventional dyeings.     

Determining the effect of enzymatic pretreatment on the low temperature dyeability of polyamide fabrics

In this study, by pretreating polyamide 6/elastane knitted fabrics with serine-type protease enzyme, the aim was to reduce dyeing temperatures. It is known that the elasticity of elastane fibres is damaged in dyeing at high temperatures. On the other hand, to enable efficient dyeing, it is necessary to use boiling temperatures in synthetic fibres such as polyamide, or even mild high temperature conditions, to support more uniform dyeing. Protease enzymes are enzymes that hydrolyse amide bonds, and consequently, new amine and carboxyl groups are released in fibre macromolecules, resulting in an increase in the functional group content to which anionic dyes can bind. In this study, to compensate for the loss of colour yield caused by lowering the dyeing temperature, an increase in the functional groups was provided by enzymatic pretreatment. For this purpose, the fabrics were pretreated with a commercial serine-type protease enzyme then dyed with 1:2 metal complex dyes at different temperatures. The effects of enzymatic pretreatment on colour, fastness, fibre surface characteristics and fabric strength were investigated.     

Application of chitosan/nonionic surfactant mixture in reactive dyes for dyeing wool fabrics

The feasibility of wool fabrics pretreated with a chitosan/nonionic surfactant mixture and dyed with reactive dyes was studied. The results showed that the presence of the chitosan/surfactant improved the application to wool, which greatly enhanced the color strength when dyed at 50°C but little change was observed when dyed at 80°C. The higher the concentration of chitosan/surfactant added, the greater was the color strength of the dyed wool fabrics. The amounts found to be optimum for dyeing were 0.5% chitosan and 1.0% surfactant. The washing fastness of the dyed wool fabrics was in the range of grades 4–5, the dry rubbing fastness was in the range of grades 4–5, and the wet rubbing fastness was in the range of grades 3–4. © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 80: 2859–2864, 2001     

Synthesis and Application of Some New Reactive Chlorohydrin Dyes

Azo and phthalocyanine dyes carrying the chlorohydrin group, as the precursor of the reactive epoxy group, were prepared using new catalyzed reactions. The reactive group is attached to the coupling component in some cases and to the diazonium component in other cases. A phthalocyanine dye carrying two reactive groups was also synthesized. The dyeing of cotton, wool and multifibre fabrics was studied, under different dyeing conditions. Various techniques of dyeing and printing were used. Exhaustion and padding methods were investigated for dyeing, and direct, reserve and discharge methods for printing. One–stage and two–stage procedures were employed for both printing and dyeing. It was found that the chlorohydrin reactive dyes prepared in the present work could be applied by nearly all known methods of dyeing and printing on cotton, wool, viscose rayon, nylon and acrylic fibres. The dyeings obtained had satisfactory fastness properties and showed fairly good dye fixation on the substrate.     

Development of Techniques for Studying Dye Penetration in Rapid Carpet Coloration Processes

A programme of work designed to assess the suitability of modern methods of colouring carpets (continuous dyeing, carpet printing, yarn printing) for wool revealed few problems for the fibre, but ring-dyed fibres could result from any of the processes. The performance defect associated with ring dyeing was abrasion frosting in use. It seemed that ring dyeing could be due to excessive oil residues, incorrect selection of dyes or chemicals, or too short a steaming time. A systematic investigation was indicated, but existing techniques for measuring ring dyeing were too tedious to provide adequate data. An existing test for assessing abrasion frosting in furnishing fabrics has been modified for use with carpets. In addition, a rapid electronics method for measuring dye penetration into fibre cross-sections has been developed. Some preliminary results are presented.     

Kinetics of thermo-fixation of solvent dyes and pigments in polyester fibres

The diffusion coefficient of a dye in fibres is critical to understanding the dyeing process and coloration quality of products. In this paper, the diffusion kinetics of solvent dyes in the thermosol dyeing of polyester fibres was studied by measuring K / S of the dyed polyester fabrics based on the Kubelka–Munk equation. The diffusion coefficients of two model solvent dyes were estimated with Hill's equation using the experimentally measured K / S values and were found to be in good agreement with those calculated from the traditional extraction method. Such a measurement method was applied to several other solvent dyes and pigments that have different molecular sizes and a good correlation between the measured diffusion coefficients and sizes of these dyes and pigments was found. The results indicate that it is feasible to use K / S measurement of dyed fabrics and Hill's equation to evaluate the kinetics of the thermosol dyeing process under certain conditions.     

Application of sodium benzoyl thiosulphate from aqueous solution to wool and its effect on substantivity of disperse dyes. Part 1: synthesis and characterisation of sodium benzoyl thiosulphate

The introduction of bulky aryl residues into wool fibres not only enhances their disperse dyeability but also improves their settability, shrink resistance and imparts easy‐care properties. It would be highly desirable for colourists to achieve such effects when dyeing or printing wool from an aqueous solution as wool/polyester blend fabrics could be dyed and printed with the same dye; furthermore, in the case of an all‐wool fabric pretreated with such arylating systems, following dyeing or printing with disperse dyes, dye fixation can be achieved by dry heat procedures. A water‐soluble, fibre‐reactive arylating agent, sodium benzoyl thiosulphate, was therefore synthesised, characterised and its stability to hydrolysis in aqueous media was examined.     

Neutral dyeing of wool and wool/polyester blend fabrics using sulphatoethylsulphone reactive‐disperse dyes

Two models of temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone reactive disperse dyes were applied to wool, polyester and wool/polyester blend fabrics at different dyeing pH. Maximum exhaustion values and colour yield were observed at pH 7. The results showed that reactive disperse dyes containing bis‐sulphatoethylsulphone reactive groups were more convenient for neutral dyeing of wool and wool/polyester blend fabrics if compared with a dye containing a mono‐sulphatoethylsulphone group. Excellent to very good wet fastness properties on all dyed fabrics were achieved.     

Surface treatment of cotton fabrics with chitosan

Antibacterial activities of cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics treated with chitosan or chitosan/DMDHEU have been investigated. The washing durability properties of the aforementioned fabrics were also studied. Another group of fabric samples produced from mature and immature cotton fibres were dyed with reactive dyes and the colour yields and colour differences of the dyed fabrics assessed. The surfaces of the treated and untreated cotton fabrics were observed by scanning electron microscopy to compare the morphology.     

Investigation and feed-forward neural network-based estimation of dyeing properties of air plasma treated wool fabric dyed with natural dye obtained from Hibiscus sabdariffa

In the colouring processes of textile products, more environmentally friendly chemicals and finishing methods should be used instead of conventional ones that harm the environment every day, so that alternative realistic ways to protect nature, both academically and industrially, could be possible. Due to some inconveniences caused by synthetic dyes that are widely used today, in this study, ultrasonic dyeing of wool fabric with Hibiscus sabdariffa was carried out after environmental-friendly air vacuum plasma application which increased the absorption of the dyes into the textile material. According to the performance results, colour strengths of the wool fabrics were increased significantly. Surface morphology analysis was carried out and etching effects of air vacuum plasma treatment were clearly seen on the micrographs of the treated wool fabrics. An environmental-friendly green process was achieved through this study and it was concluded that vacuum air plasma treatment could be an alternative green-process as a pretreatment to increase the dye up-take of natural dyeing treatment. Moreover, in this study, a feed-forward neural network (FFNN) model was presented and used for predicting the dyeing properties (L, a, b and K/S) of samples. The experimental results showed that the presented model achieves the regression values greater than 0.9 for all dyeing properties. Consequently, it was considered that the proposed FFNN was successfully modelled and could be efficiently utilised for dyeing characteristics of wool fabrics dyed with natural dye extracted from Hibiscus sabdariffa.     

One‐bath union dyeing of wool/polytrimethylene terephthalate blends†

The one‐bath dyeing of blends of polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) staple and wool has been investigated. The exhaustion of selected Terasil disperse dyes on PTT fibre and Lanasol reactive dyes on wool was measured as a function of temperature, together with the cross‐staining of the Terasil dyes on the wool component and the Lanasol dyes on PTT component. Most Terasil disperse dyes achieved satisfactory dye uptake on PTT at 110 °C, whereas on conventional polyester (polyethylene terephthalate) temperatures of up to 130 °C are required. An optimised union‐dyeing technique for wool/PTT blends was developed which minimised the staining of Terasil disperse dyes on wool and produced dyed goods with high levels of wet colour fastness. Carriers were not required to enhance the dyeability of PTT at low temperatures. The wool component appeared to be protected against damage at 110 °C by the reactive dyes. The results indicate the potential for blending PTT fibre and wool to produce fabrics that are easier to dye at lower temperatures than conventional wool/polyester blends.