Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.     

The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients

The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities. Secondary metabolites isolated from macroalgae, including carotenoids and polyphenols, have demonstrated antioxidant, anti‐ageing and anti‐inflammatory activities. In addition, marine extremophilic bacteria have recently been shown to produce bioactive exopolymeric molecules, some of which have been commercialized. Available data on their activities show significant antioxidant, moisturizing and anti‐ageing activities, but a more focussed investigation into their mechanisms and applications is required. This review surveys the reported biological activities of an emerging and growing portfolio of marine molecules that show promise in the treatment of cosmetic skin problems including ultraviolet damage, ageing and cutaneous dryness.     

Characterization of cosmetic cream with Mesembryanthemum crystallinum plant extract: influence of formulation composition on physical stability and anti‐oxidant activity

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing superoxide dismutase (SOD) was usually used in topical administration, particularly, in fighting against skin ageing and in the protection of the skin against radiation exposure. Mesembryanthemum crystallinum is a halophyte plant widely used in the traditional medicine, characterized by the presence of anti‐oxidants enzymes in responses to abiotic stresses. In the present study, we prepared a formulation with M. crystallinum extract characterized by naturally occurring SOD and catalase in association with other anti‐oxidants molecules. The SOD activity was measured by 3‐(4,5‐dimethyldiazol‐2‐yl)‐2,5‐diphenyl‐tetrazolium bromide/riboflavin method, catalase by colorimetric method and the total anti‐radical activity was measured by 1,1‐diphenyl‐2‐picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH) method. Formulations contain a significant SOD activity (8.33 U mg^?1), a catalase activity (0.5 × 10⁷ UC) and an anti‐radical activity (30% of DPPH inhibition). The formulation storage (15 days at 4°C) showed a marked loss of total anti‐oxidant capacity. The addition of the M. crystallinum extract induced also a reduction in formulation viscosity and pH.     

Skin benefits of a myconoside-rich extract from resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis

Resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis develops molecules to survive drought stress. These molecules allow the plant to resurge from a desiccation state. We have extracted a specific fraction from the plant (Haberlea extract) and found it rich, among other molecules, of a caffeoyl phenylethanoid glycoside called myconoside, a molecule extremely abundant in the plant with a potential role in survival. Peroxide‐stressed normal human dermal fibroblasts treated with the Haberlea extract, showed increased collagen VI (+822%), collagen XVI (+928%) and elastin (+144%) mRNA synthesis, measured by RT‐qPCR. This effect was superior to those obtained with benchmarks retinoic acid and retinol. When used at 3% in human skin biopsies, Haberlea extract protected against UV‐induced dermis oxidation by 100% (P < 0.01), as evidenced by immunohistochemistry. Finally, when tested in human volunteers (n = 20) at 3% in a cream against a placebo, Haberlea extract increased skin elasticity (3× placebo, P < 0.0002) and skin radiance (4× placebo, P < 0.05) after only 15 days of treatment, with the effect sustained after 30 and 60 days of treatment. We demonstrated that by using Haberlea extract (particularly rich in glycoside myconoside), it is possible to strongly stimulate antioxidant skin defences and extracellular matrix protein synthesis. This effect, in turn, will further stimulate skin elasticity and skin radiance significantly in human volunteers. The extract can be suggested for anti‐ageing treatments, intended for claims such as protection from oxidation, increased skin elasticity and enhanced skin radiance.     

Almond Polyphenols: Methods of Analysis,Contribution to Food Quality,and Health Promotion

Almond is a nutrient‐dense tree nut recognized for its favorable lipid profile, vitamin E content, and polyphenols. The objectives of this review were to determine the polyphenols reported in almond, summarize the methods of analysis, and determine the polyphenol contribution to almond quality and health‐promoting activity. Approximately 130 different polyphenols have been identified in almond, although not all of these have been quantitated. The mean and 25% to 75% percentile contents reported in literature were 162 mg (67.1 to 257) proanthocyanidins (dimers or larger), 82.1 mg (72.9 to 91.5) hydrolysable tannins, 61.2 mg (13.0 to 93.8) flavonoids (non‐isoflavone), 5.5 mg (5.2 to 12) phenolic acids and aldehydes, and 0.7 mg (0.5 to 0.9) isoflavones, stilbenes, and lignans per 100 g almond. Following solvent extraction of almond, hydrolysis of the residue liberates additional proanthocyanidins, phenolic acids and aldehydes, and total phenols. Blanching and skin removal consistently reduces almond polyphenol content, but blanch water and almond skins retain enough polyphenols to be used as antimicrobial and antioxidant ingredients. Roasting and pasteurization have inconsistent effects on almond polyphenols. Almond polyphenols contribute to shelf life by inhibiting lipid oxidation and providing pigmentation, flavor, astringency, and antimicrobial activity. The health‐promoting activity of whole almonds has been widely investigated, but few have considered the contribution of polyphenols. Preclinical studies of polyphenol‐rich almond skin or almond extracts suggest putative effects on antioxidant function, detoxification, antiviral activity, anti‐inflammatory function, and topical use for inhibiting ultraviolet A damage. Therefore, almond has a diverse polyphenol profile contributing to both its food quality and health‐promoting actions.     

Zinc‐containing compounds for personal care applications

It is well‐known that zinc ions are widely used in cosmetic products. Their popularity is associated with the multifunctional profile of Zn²⁺, which is classified as an essential chemical element in the human body. This review examines numerous beneficial biological properties of zinc‐containing compounds and classifies the compounds used in cosmetic products according to their functionality profile: antioxidant, sunscreen, anti‐inflammatory, anti‐pigmentation, anti‐ageing, anti‐acne, antimicrobial, anti‐odour, cleansing or stabilizing activity. It also underlines the significance of zinc in enzymatic processes, which depends on the enzyme type acts as inhibitor or enzymatic stimulator. Moreover, the article describes the chemical nature of the most interesting groups of Zn compounds.     

A review on polyphenols: Classification,beneficial effects and their application in dairy products

Recently, the number of studies regarding the physiological activities of food‐derived bioactives and food components with functional properties has greatly increased. Many studies have emphasised the beneficial effects of polyphenols regarding their antioxidant, antiproliferative and anti‐inflammatory properties. This study highlights their application in dairy products, notes in which form they are applied and discusses the effects on the physicochemical and sensory characteristics of products, although some dairy matrices remain unexploited. It was noted that the inclusion of polyphenols improves not only the antioxidant properties but also, in some cases, the sensory attributes. This review also includes the synthesis, classification and beneficial effects of polyphenols.     

Peel Effects on Phenolic Composition,Antioxidant Activity,and Making of Pomegranate Juice and Wine

Pomegranate peel was used in juicing to find out its effects on the juice products’ (storable juice and wine) sensory property, polyphenols composition, and antioxidant ability. Macroporous resin was used to purify the polyphenols, and 6 different in vitro assays were used to comprehensively determine the antioxidant activity of each. The results showed that juicing with peel made the juice bitter and astringent, but contributed better sensory quality to wine. Peel contributed higher total polyphenols and flavonoids, but lower anthocyanins to the juice products, and caused the phenolics content to fluctuate more dramatically during making wine than the storable juice. Polyphenols purified from the juice products containing peel showed higher total reducing ability and 2,2‐diphenyl‐1‐picrylhydrazyl and 2,2′‐azino‐bis(3‐ethylbenzothiazoline‐6‐sulfonic acid radical elimination abilities, but their clearance activity of hydroxyl radicals was not positive, and their superoxide anion radical elimination ability showed no significant difference when compared to polyphenols purified from juice products without peel.     

Comparison of Polyphenol Profile and Inhibitory Activities Against Oxidation and α‐Glucosidase in Mulberry (Genus Morus) Cultivars from China

Mulberry (genus Morus) is a significant source of polyphenols, which can promote positive effects on human health. China has various mulberry cultivars, however, many Chinese mulberry cultivars have been only minimally studied. To solve this lack of research, 8 mulberry cultivars (Da10, Tang10, Yueshen74, Yuefenshen, Longsang, Ningxia1hao, Taiwanguosang, and Baiyuwang) from 4 regions of China were assessed to determine their polyphenol profiles using HPLC‐MS/MS and then tested for their antioxidant and anti‐α‐glucosidase activities in vitro. A total of 18 nonanthocyanins and 4 anthocyanins were quantified in mulberry cultivars; among these polyphenols, chlorogenic acid, quercetin 3‐O‐rutinoside, and cyanidin 3‐O‐glucoside were confirmed as the major phenolic acid, flavonol derivative, and anthocyanin, respectively. Two types of stilbene compounds, piceid, and piceatannol, were detected for the 1st time in all mulberry cultivars. Moreover, the methanolic extracts of different mulberry cultivars showed disparate antioxidant and α‐glucosidase inhibitory activities, and this discrepancy was mainly attributed to varying the anthocyanin content. Based on our results, Taiwanguosang is proposed to be a good candidate suitable for further process due to its high level of anthocyanins.     

Efficacy of a Novel Treatment Serum in the Improvement of Photodamaged Skin

A novel treatment serum formulated to target multiple pathways in the anti‐ageing cascade was tested both in vitro and in clinical settings. In vitro testing was performed to assess the ability to stimulate key proteins and genes fundamental to the anti‐ageing cascade. The antioxidant potential of the formulation was studied in a UV‐irradiation clinical study. A 12‐week, open‐label, single‐centre study was conducted to determine whether this uniquely formulated topical treatment serum could improve visible signs of facial photodamage. Clinical evaluations showed statistically significant reductions in fine wrinkles and coarse wrinkles and improvements in skin texture, tone and radiance starting at week 4 with continued improvements at weeks 8 and 12. Subject self‐assessments confirmed that the beneficial effects of the treatment serum were readily observed by the users. The treatment serum was well tolerated with no treatment‐related adverse events reported during the 12‐week study. Use of this novel treatment serum produced significant improvements in the visible signs of facial photodamage.     

Control of antioxidant beer activity by the mashing process

Beer is considered to be a good source of antioxidants. The composition and the quantity of the antioxidant compounds depend not only on the qualities of the raw materials, but also on the technology processes. Barley and malt represent the main source of antioxidant compounds in beer and the contribution of the hop antioxidants is lower. The influence of the mashing process on the antioxidant activity and polyphenol concentration is crucial. The antioxidant state of the sweet wort and the hopped wort are dependent on the technology processes and the raw materials used. The spontaneous sorption of polyphenols onto wort dregs and the polymerization of catechin and epicatechin lead to decreasing concentrations of individual polyphenols in the final beer. Two methods, based on electron spin resonance were used to determine antioxidant activity. These were the DPPH (2,2‐diphenyl‐1‐picryl‐hydrazyl) assay and the ‘lag time’ assay using free radical spin‐trapping agent PBN (N‐tert‐butyl‐α‐phenylnitrone). HPLC with CoulArray detection was used to measure the concentration of the individual polyphenols. This study focused on the antioxidant compounds and on the correlation of their concentrations with the values of total antioxidant activity depending on the mashing process. A good correlation was found between the decline in the concentrations of DPPH (expressed as ARA2) and concentrations of catechin and epicatechin (in sweet wort samples R² = 0.970, R² = 0.961, respectively, and in hopped wort samples R² = 0.949, R² = 0.956 respectively). Copyright © 2012 The Institute of Brewing & Distilling     

天然植物多酚在生鲜肉及其制品防腐中的应用研究进展

肉与肉制品在日常膳食结构中占有举足轻重的地位,为人类提供了优质的蛋白质、维生素和矿物质等营养素。随着消费者对天然防腐剂的青睐,天然植物多酚凭借其独特的抑菌和抗氧化效果,目前已成为肉品科学领域最新的研究热点之一。本文主要总结近几年出现的新型天然植物多酚提取物及其防腐机制,围绕多酚的抗氧化和抑菌功能阐述其在生鲜肉及其制品保鲜方面的具体应用,并从物理、化学和加工技术等层面介绍可用于提高多酚稳定性的有效措施,旨在为植物多酚类物质在肉类工业的广泛应用及其绿色制造技术开发提供一定的理论指导。     

In vitro antioxidant activity of red grape skins

Phenolic antioxidants seem to be partly responsible for the protective effects against cardiovascular diseases attributed to moderate wine consumption. Grape skins greatly contribute to the phenolic composition of red wine. In this paper, the in vitro antioxidant activity of red grape (Vitis vinifera) skins is determined. We show that the radical scavenging activity (C ₅₀ values) against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH^·) of grape skin extracts is relatively high (3.2–11.1 mg dried skin/mg DPPH^·) in relation to other foodstuffs and, as expected, is influenced by grape variety, stage of grape ripening and vintage. The antioxidant potential of grape skins seems to be transferred into wine since grape varieties with skins exhibiting high antioxidant potential also resulted in wines with high antioxidant activity. Statistically significant correlations were found between antioxidant activity and phenolic content (total polyphenols, proanthocyanins, catechins and anthocyanins) for both grape skins and wines.     

Hibiscus sabdariffa extract lowers blood pressure and improves endothelial function

Polyphenols from Hibiscus sabdariffa calices were administered to patients with metabolic syndrome (125 mg/kg/day for 4 wk, n = 31) and spontaneously hypertensive rats (125 or 60 mg/kg in a single dose or daily for 1 wk, n = 8 for each experimental group). The H. sabdariffa extract improved metabolism, displayed potent anti‐inflammatory and antioxidant activities, and significantly reduced blood pressure in both humans and rats. Diuresis and inhibition of the angiotensin I‐converting enzyme were found to be less important mechanisms than those related to the antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory, and endothelium‐dependent effects to explain the beneficial actions. Notably, polyphenols induced a favorable endothelial response that should be considered in the management of metabolic cardiovascular risks.     

Review Article: A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibres in skin ageing

Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in the absence of additional biological, chemical and physical factors. The clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are not usually evident until old age when, although smooth and unblemished, the skin surface appears pale and is characterized by fine wrinkles with occasional exaggerated expression lines. Functionally, intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin. In contrast, extrinsically aged skin is exemplified by deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil. The two major environmental influences which induce extrinsic ageing are: (i) chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation (termed photoageing) and (ii) smoking. This review discusses the changes associated with the ageing process in the skin, with particular emphasis on the role played by the elastic fibre network in maintaining dermal function. The review concludes with a discussion of a short‐term assay for independent assessment of the efficacy of anti‐ageing cosmetic products using the elastic fibre component fibrillin‐1 as a biomarker of extracellular matrix repair.     

Bioavailability and Antioxidant Activity of Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) Polyphenols: in vitro and in vivo Evidences and Possible Mechanisms of Action: A Review

Abstract: Black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) is a distinctive berry with a high content of polyphenol compounds and possesses one of the highest in vitro antioxidant activities among fruits. The bioavailability of aronia polyphenols seems to be low, but there is ample evidence for chokeberry health benefits including antidiabetic, cardioprotective, hepatoprotective, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic effects. This review presents the available information for the bioavailability and antioxidant activity of chokeberry polyphenols and explains the possible mechanisms of action in vivo in the prevention and treatment of oxidative stress‐related diseases. The review shows the available data for chokeberry antioxidant activity in vitro, in isolated cells and cell lines, and in vivo, in both human subjects and animals. It is evident that in vivo antioxidant action of chokeberry extends far beyond radical scavenging and includes suppression of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species formation, inhibition of prooxidant enzymes, restoration of antioxidant enzymes, and probably cellular signaling to regulate the level of antioxidant compounds and enzymes. The original contribution of this work is that it compiles the available information up to date and outlines the gaps and future directions in the assessment of chokeberry antioxidant action in vivo.     

The intake of dietary fiber from grape seeds modifies the antioxidant status in rat cecum

The aim of this study was to measure the antioxidant activity and polyphenolic compounds in cecum and feces of rats fed with a grape seed concentrate. The grape concentrate was rich in indigestible compounds (dietary fiber, polyphenols and other associated compounds) which presented significant antioxidant activity. Polyphenols extracted by aqueous–organic solvents (extractable polyphenols, EPs) and non‐extractable polyphenols (NEPs) exhibited high antioxidant capacity as measured by the ABTS method. High correlations were found between antioxidant capacity values and EP (r² = 0.9608) and NEP content (r² = 0.9179). EPs and NEPs exhibited considerable antioxidant activity within the large intestine. Significant antioxidant activity was also found in feces derived from excreted EPs and NEPs. The grape fiber concentrate enhanced the antioxidant status in the large intestine. The antioxidant activity in the intestinal content should be considered when assessing the effects of dietary components on bowel diseases. Copyright © 2005 Society of Chemical Industry     

Antioxidant activity of yogurt made from milk characterized by different casein haplotypes and fortified with chestnut and sulla honeys

The aim of this work was to evaluate the antioxidant activity of yogurt made from milk characterized by different casein (CN) haplotypes (α_s1-, β-, κ-CN) and fortified with chestnut and sulla honeys. The CN haplotype was determined by isoelectric focusing, whereas antioxidant activity of yogurt was measured using 2,2’-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid and ferric-reducing antioxidant power. The statistical analysis showed a significant effect of the studied factors. The results showed that chestnut honey presented the highest phenolic acid and flavonoid contents, which are closely associated with its high antioxidant activity. The antioxidant activity of fortified yogurt samples was affected both by different CN haplotypes and by type of honey added. Yogurts fortified with chestnut honey showed higher antioxidant activity than those fortified with sulla honey. The different behavior observed among the fortified yogurts led us to hypothesize that the effects of protein-polyphenol complex on antioxidant activity are interactive. The results suggest that milk proteins polymorphism and polyphenols play different roles in affecting the bioavailability and the antioxidant activity of yogurt.     

Selected bioactivities of Vaccinium berries and other fruit crops in relation to their phenolic contents

Antioxidant activity, urinary tract protective activity, and cardioprotective anti‐platelet effects are among the bioactivities associated with dietary phenolics. These bioactivities were measured in vitro in fruit extracts from seven Vaccinium species and five non‐Vaccinium species to determine their relationship to total phenolic content and to anthocyanin and proanthocyanidin content. Berries belonging to the genus Vaccinium were particularly high in antioxidant activity and urinary tract protective anti‐adhesion activity, while anti‐platelet activity varied among species. There was a positive relationship between antioxidant activity (using the oxygen radical absorbing capacity (ORAC) assay) and both the total phenolic (R² = 0.76) and anthocyanin content (R² = 0.43) of the fruit, although there was no relationship between ORAC and proanthocyanidin content. There were no relationships between anti‐adhesion activity and total phenolic content, anthocyanin content, or proanthocyanidin content. Likewise, no relationships were observed between anti‐platelet activity and total phenolic content, anthocyanin content, or proanthocyanidin content. These results suggest that while antioxidant properties are characteristic of all fruit phenolics, in vitro anti‐adhesion and anti‐platelet bioactivities may be due to less abundant phenolic subgroups. Copyright © 2007 Crown in the right of Canada and Society of Chemical Industry     

Hibiscus sabdariffa L. confesctionery gels,in vitro digestion,antioxidant activity and phenolic compounds quantification: a nutraceutical application

Dehydrated Hibiscus sabdariffa (Roselle) is usually used as the raw material of popular beverages, where the exhausted calyx, still rich in polyphenols and fibre, is discarded. The aim of the present study is to evaluate the possibility of adding Roselle's whole calyx to a confectionery product elaborated with gelatin, quantifying the concentration of released polyphenols (Folin–Ciocalteu) during an in vitro digestion and the expression of antioxidant activity [Ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and N,N‐dimethyl‐p‐phenylenediamine dihydrochloride (DMPD)] during this process. Results show that hardness and elongation of Roselle‐gelatin gums respond to a quadratic model where single components and binary mixtures show significant contributions to hardness and elongation behaviour respectively. Ten grams of Roselle‐gelatin gum express a higher antioxidant activity (FRAP) than 250 mL of the infusion prepared by a traditionally procedure. A significant proportion of the radical scavenging (DMPD) activity could have been lost during the elaboration process of the gums, and although more studies should be done, a hypothesis explaining this effect is included.