真丝复合丝牛仔的生化洗整理研究

真丝复合丝牛仔织物是牛仔面料中的高档产品。它以棉纱为芯，桑蚕丝包复在芯线外层，形成独特的真丝复合丝新材料。本文以织物的失重率、断裂强力、柔软性、同色性等为考查指标，通过对影响中性纤维素酶及中性蛋白酶整理真丝复合丝牛仔织物的各种因素的研究，优化了一步法生化洗真丝复合丝牛仔面料的整理工艺，探讨了酶与蚕丝及棉纤维的反应机理，并用扫描电镜测定。整理后的真丝复合丝牛仔面料的服用性能也作了试验和检测。     

复合丝绸针织起绒织物的生产工艺和性能分析

本文对复合丝绸针织起绒织物的生产工艺进行了研究,并着重对其织物性能进行了测试与分析,结果证明复合丝绸针织起绒织物有着优良的保暖性、透气透湿性和卫生保健性,是一种综合性能优良的纺织新面料。     

丝毛复合网络织物防皱性能研究

比较了不同比例丝毛复合网络织物的折皱性，研究了用多功能弹性体处理丝毛复合网络织物后对折皱性的影响，并用酸碱水解法、氨基酸含量的变化和扫描电镜法，探讨弹性体提高丝毛复合对网络织物折皱回复性的原因，以及不同的加工方法对比毛复合网络织物风格的影响。     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

多层次叠层火焰复合纺织品的研究

本文叙述了多层次叠层火焰复合机理、工艺流程以及在自行设计制造的国产第一套火焰复合设备上进行工艺试验的结果;分析了影响聚氨酯泡沫塑料与织物火焰复合剥离力的因素,并对产品服用性能进行了试验。火焰复合纺织品用途广,工艺简便,操作方便,节省能源和人工,成本低,有明显的经济效益和社会效益。     

大豆蛋白复合纤维/羊毛混纺织物染色探讨

为了解决因大豆蛋白复合纤维和羊毛的物理化学性能和染整加工性能的差异而导致的染色同色性差的问题,采用酸性染料、中性染料、毛用和棉用活性染料对大豆蛋白复合纤维/羊毛混纺织物进行染色研究,着重探讨了Everzol ED型活性染料对大豆蛋白复合纤维/羊毛混纺织物的染色性能.结果表明:Everzol ED型活性染料适合于大豆蛋白复合纤维/羊毛混纺织物的染色,同色性较好,但对工艺条件的要求比较严格.     

新型X射线防护用品的研制

将聚氨酯泡沫塑料改性,使其在保持原有优良性能的基础上又增加了防X射线功能。再将其与织物层压,即成防X射线层压织物。经各项性能测试,证明了改性聚氨酯泡沫塑料制防X射线层压织物的可行性。     

毛盖竹双层针织面料的性能研究

在实验测试与理论分析的基础上,采用对比研究的方法,对设计开发出的2种不同复合结构的毛盖竹双层织物的服用性能进行了研究。分析研究结果表明,通过毛与竹的复合交织开发的毛盖竹织物,其接触舒适性、热湿舒适性及外观保持性能得到提高,其综合服用性能优于纯毛织物,是一种具有舒适性和保健性的高档功能性织物,可用于制作高档T恤及休闲服装。     

文摘荟萃

正棉大豆蛋白复合纤维织物与纯棉织物性能对比研究棉与大豆蛋白复合纤维(50∶50)混纺织物基本服用性能。测试了棉与大豆蛋白复合纤维(50∶50)混纺针织物的顶破强力、透气性、刚柔性、透湿性、悬垂性和耐磨性,并与纯棉针织物进行了对比。测试结果表明:棉大豆蛋白复合纤维混纺织物悬垂性、柔软度、透     

高透聚氨酯薄膜层压罗纹针织物服用性能研究

以2+2双罗纹针织物、热熔胶TPU和高透PU膜为原材料,采用层压复合的方法制备防水透湿复合织物,分析双罗纹针织物、高透PU膜及复合织物的拉伸性能、悬垂性、透气性,以及防水透湿效果,并通过改变TPU用量、温度及复合压力探讨对复合织物各项性能的影响。研究结果表明:双罗纹针织物与PU膜复合后,复合织物的强伸性有所提高,但悬垂性有所降低,防水效果明显比双罗纹针织物要好,透湿、透气效果比高透PU薄膜小一些。综合而言,当TPU用量为32 g/m2,复合压力为8 MPa,复合温度为80℃时,复合织物的复合效果最好。     

Theoretical and experimental investigation of tensile properties of net warp-knitted spacer fabrics

Abstract

This work aimed to investigate the tensile behavior of net warp-knitted spacer fabrics using the experimental and theoretical approaches. Tensile behavior of the warp-knitted spacer fabrics is one of the fundamental parameters which rarely considered in the literature. Therefore, the net spacer fabrics were made with three different variables (fabric thickness, size of meshes, and the position of meshes of the outer layer with respect to each other) in order to study the effects of structural parameters on the tensile behavior. A 2D net-fabric which used for the outer fabrics was made for in-depth considerations and also the comparison between the 2D fabrics and spacer fabrics. The initial linear elastic modulus of the 2D fabrics and the initial linear elastic modulus of the spacer fabrics were selected for the assessment of the tensile characteristics. First, a mechanical model was developed based on the geometrical structures and material properties of the 2D fabrics using energy method and Castigliano’s theorem. Then, the effects of spacer yarns on the tensile behavior of spacer fabrics were taken into account. The latter model was proposed using the bending theory of a curved bar. Experimental data were compared with the values obtained from the theoretical approaches and the end results showed that the developed models can predict the modulus reasonably. Moreover, the results indicated that the tensile behavior of the spacer fabrics are independent of the position of the holes in the outer layer whilst the fabric thickness and size of meshes affect the tensile modulus.     

万能强力测试仪的压缩试验夹具

织物受到平面垂直作用力所产生的反应称为织物的压缩性能。压缩性能通过变化的受压压力与织物厚度的函数关系来表征。织物的舒适性和导热行为与织物厚度和可压缩性密切相关。织物的保暖性也与织物结构中静止空气的含量有关。织物的可压缩性、弯曲、拉伸、剪切和表面特征都是影响织物手感、悬垂性、可缝性及成形性的重要因素。目前,测试织物可压缩性最广泛使用的测试仪器是KES-F测试系统和FAST测试系统。     

The influence of two bar warp-knitted structure on the fabric tensile stress relaxation Part II: (locknit,satin, loop raised)

When strain is applied constantly, there is a decreased stress with time in viscoelastic materials, which is called stress relaxation. During the manufacture and application of clothing and footwear, materials experience various long-lasting deformations, and relaxation process in materials arises. Thus, with theoretical and experimental study of the factors affecting stress relaxation, the ability to design and produce appropriate clothes will be increased. In the first part of this research, we studied the stress relaxation behavior of warp-knitted structures which have longer underlaps in back bar (reverse locknit, three- and four-needle sharkskin, and queens’ cord). Following the previous research, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of fabric structure, strain percentage, and course density on the stress and stress relaxation of the warp-knitted structures which have longer underlaps in front bar (locknit, three- and four-needle satin, and loop raised). The results reveal that the fabric structure, strain value, and fabric density are important factors affecting the stress and stress relaxation percent of the fabrics. By increasing the strain and the length of underlap in the front guide bar, stress and stress relaxation percent will be increased. Also, fabrics with higher course density show higher stress and stress relaxation percent. Among the mechanical models used to describe the stress relaxation behavior of the fabrics, the three-component Maxwell’s model with parallel-connect nonlinear spring showed the best agreement with the experimental stress relaxation curves of the analyzed fabrics.     

Dispenser-printed sound-emitting fabrics for applications in the creative fashion and smart architecture industry

This paper presents a printing technology for the design and manufacture of interactive planar speakers. With this technology, sound emission can be easily integrated into various textiles at the design stage with minimal assembly after printing. This paper reports direct-write dispenser-printed sound-emitting smart fabrics, aimed at creative fashion and smart architecture applications opening up new opportunities in product design. Planar spiral speakers generate a membrane vibration and so emit sound when driven from an a.c. audio source if a magnet is in close proximity to the spiral. These speakers can be integrated on fabrics to form the basis of clothing in fashion applications. The speaker designs were printed on woven polyester fabric and produced a measured peak sound output level of 85 dB with a wide frequency response from 20 Hz to 20 kHz. This research demonstrates a straightforward fabrication method, based on dispenser printing, to achieve sound emission from a fabric. The fabrication process requires a processing temperature of 130 °C for 10 min which is compatible with the majority of fabrics which are used in fashion and architecture industries. This paper reports on the theory and the manufacturing technology to achieve direct-write dispenser-printed planar spiral speakers on fabrics.     

风速对单双层着装状态下运动服针织面料湿阻的影响

为构建软风范围内单双层着装状态下运动服面料的湿阻预测有效模型,选取常用的12种T恤、8种外套面料,实验测试了4种风速下的面料湿阻,通过聚类分析获取代表性的T恤和外套面料,模拟T恤和外套的双层着装状态,测试不同风速下T恤与外套双层运动服针织面料之间的湿阻.构建了T恤和外套面料湿阻与风速的三阶多项式模型、双层组合面料湿阻与...     

织物折皱回复角的计算

利用标准固体单元和滑块并联组成的模型,在织物摩擦约束力偶与其弯曲曲率成正比的假设下,对织物的弯曲和折皱回复进行了分析,并用纯弯曲实验得到的数据计算出织物的模型参数,从而计算出织物在不同时刻的回复角,平纹织物的理论预期与实测结果符合较好。     

Introducing and optimizing a novel mesh for simulating knitted fabric

In this paper, a mass spring system is developed to simulate the draping behavior of knitted fabric. A new type of mesh based on loop structure, which is called Loop mesh, is introduced. The effective properties on fabric drape are measured using the Fast system, and the experimental data are incorporated into the mass spring model to simulate the draping behavior of knitted fabrics. 3D shape of real drape behavior of fabric samples is achieved using depth camera. Then in order to reduce error value between simulated and real results, distances between mass points in the Loop mesh are optimized using the Imperialistic Competitive Algorithm (ICA). In order to investigate validity and accuracy of the Loop mesh, drape behavior of knitted fabrics falling over a square table are also simulated using common meshes. It can be found that the Loop mesh produced a closest drape shape to the real fabric drape than other mesh models. Finally, fabrics drape is simulated in other situations and compared with its real result to validate the proposed model. Results show that the optimized model is able to simulate the drape behavior of knitted fabric with error value of 4.29 percent.     

A novel approach for simulation of curling behavior of knitted fabric based on mass spring model

Edge curling is a unique property of knitted fabrics which affects on fashion such as using upper and side curling in cloth design. The purpose of this research is to present a new method to simulate drape behavior of knitted fabric considering difference between single and double jersey knitted fabrics. To this point, at first the bending and torsion moments that applied on the fabric edges and caused curling in single knitted fabric are determined. Also it demonstrated that these moments will be neutralized in double knitted and as the results, leads to a non-curling structure. Then, using the mass spring model, curling shape in fabric wale and course directions are simulated. To show efficiency of the proposed model, real 3D shape of single knitted fabric is compared with experimental results. Also, using the proposed model, the drape behaviors of single and double jersey knitted fabrics hanging from two fixed corners with different properties are simulated and then extend to simulation of skirt. Results of simulation are compared with 3D shapes of actual drape behavior in fabric samples which are achieved by depth camera. The simulated results show good agreement with 3D shapes of actual fabrics.     

Relations between Fabric Structure and Friction: Part II: Weft Knitted Fabrics

Abstract

In the earlier part of the series (Jeddi et al., 2003) the authors defined a new index for the structural asperity of woven fabrics and found the relationship between this index and fabric frictional parameters. In this part, the authors develop this definition for weft knitted fabrics and introduce a ‘Fabric Structural Asperity Index’ (FSAI) for interlock gating of knitted structures. This index, which can be explained as the ratio of miss stitches to the total number of needles in a structural knit cell, shows a good relation with frictional resistance parameters of the course over course direction of motion.

The experimental results show that the static and dynamic frictional resistances of the course over course motion are higher than the wale over wale motion. The values of frictional forces for different structures have no statistical difference in the wale over wale direction of motion. This paper also studies the effectiveness of the structural cell stitch length and fiber content on the frictional behavior of the fabrics.