模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法

针对现有的织物抗皱性测试方法不能直接用来表征穿着过程引起的折皱这一现象,提出一种可模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法。构建了模拟装置,并利用图像处理技术提取了折皱密度。经20块织物的相关实验验证得出：模拟方法与实际着装产生的折皱非常相似,说明模拟方法具有一定的可行性,且其测试稳定性好于折皱回复角法;0°折皱回复角与折皱密度的相关性最大,随后是45°,建议增加45°折皱回复角的测试,以使测试结果更能表征实际着装时织物的折皱变形能力;建立了多元回归模型,此模型可用来预测实际着装时的折皱密度,无需经过工作量繁重的服装制作和实际穿着实验。     

基于图像处理的织物多方向抗皱性测试方法

目前的抗皱性测试方法只能测试织物单一方向的折皱回复性,这与服装穿着时多方向的起皱形态相差较大。针对这种情况,本文首先设计一种能近似模拟服装膝盖和肘部起皱形态的多方向起皱装置,然后给出了其使用与测试方法,进而提出两个评价指标--急弹性和缓弹性抗皱面积比,最后将20块织物的这两个指标与急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角进行对比分析,得出急弹性和缓弹性抗皱面积比分别与急弹性和缓弹性折皱回复角具有高度正相关关系。且多方向起皱装置所形成的折皱形态更接近服装实际穿着时的起皱形态,也能更好地反映织物的综合抗皱能力。     

芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响

文章采用全聚纺纺纱方式生产了JC/PET、JC/PTT、JC/SPH、JC/T400四种包芯纱和一种纯棉纱,利用这五种纱线织造了规格相同的五种机织物。分别利用客观与主观评价法,评价织物的抗皱性及平整度等级,同时测试了织物的拉伸弹性回复率,以研究芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响。结果表明:芯丝的加入可以改善纯棉织物的平整度;长丝的初始模量、弹性影响织物的抗皱等级,SPH的初始模量最高、T400的弹性回复性最好,因此JC/SPH和JC/T400包芯纱织物抗皱等级最高,可以达到3. 5级;且这两种长丝的表面均有沟槽,截面为异形,起到毛细管作用,其织物具有较好的吸湿排汗作用,是开发高保形免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

羊毛角蛋白溶液改善竹原织物抗皱性的研究

羊毛角蛋白能够与纤维素直接发生共价交联,因此可利用羊毛角蛋白溶液对纺织品进行改性整理.针对竹原纤维织物抗皱性能较差的问题,采用NaOH、H2O2溶解羊毛,再利用羊毛角蛋白溶液对竹原纤维进行抗皱改性整理,测试了在不同羊毛角蛋白溶液整理条件下竹原纤维织物的急弹和缓弹折皱回复角,并对工艺条件进行了优化.结果表明,经羊毛角蛋白溶液处理后,竹原纤维织物的抗皱性能得到显著改善.     

乙二醛毛织物抗皱整理

用乙二醛对薄型毛织物进行抗皱整理,测定整理后织物的折皱回复角、断裂强度及整理后对织物白度的影响,通过实验选择最佳工艺为,乙二醛浓度17.5 g/L、硫酸铝浓度22.5 g/L、乙二醇浓度3 g/L、焙烘温度125℃、焙烘时间3 min.     

纳米二氧化钛对纯棉织物抗皱整理效果影响的研究

探讨了纳米二氧化钛的加入量对纯棉平纹、斜纹织物抗皱整理效果的影响。研究结果表明,加入纳米二氧化钛之后,不仅可以有效地提高棉织物的抗皱效果,而且可以提高织物的强力;当纳米二氧化钛的浓度为0.1 g/L时,效果最佳。     

壳聚糖对柞蚕丝绸抗皱性能的影响

采用壳聚糖、柠檬酸、次亚磷酸钠等的混合溶液对柞蚕丝绸进行抗皱整理,研究了壳聚糖质量浓度、壳聚糖分子质量及焙烘温度对抗皱性能的影响,并对壳聚糖整理前后丝绸表面微观形貌、撕破强力、白度及柔软度进行了测试。结果表明,用质量浓度5 g/L的低分子量壳聚糖整理柞蚕丝绸可获得较好的抗皱效果,整理后柞蚕丝绸表面平挺光滑,折皱回复角显著提高,强力和白度保留率分别为88.1%和92.4%,柔软度有一定程度下降。     

液氨处理可提高亚麻织物物理机械性能

100％亚麻织物经液氨处理后，对其织物结构、抗皱性能、强力和色泽等进行了测试。结果表明。液氨处理提高了织物尺寸稳定性、耐磨性和水洗后的外观。工艺对织物的湿态折皱回复性影响显著，而对干态折皱回复角影响甚微。经纬纱的断裂负荷和伸长差别显著，经纱强力平均提高10％，纬纱则降低约25％.[第一段]     

微生物谷氨酰胺转胺酶改善真丝织物抗皱性

以MTG酶对真丝电力纺进行抗皱整理,探讨了其对真丝织物的作用,并从微观上进行了分析。MTG酶单独作用及双氧水／MTG酶、蛋白酶／MTG酶、超声波／MTG酶等复合整理方法都表明：MTG酶可以改善真丝织物的抗皱性并提高强力或修复强力损伤。同时,通过几种处理方法的对比,超声波和MTG酶具有很好的协同作用,使折皱回复角提高了17.4％,强力也提高了11．2％。     

基于原位力学测试的织物折皱回复性表征

针对现有基于折皱回复角和外观平整度的织物折皱回复性评价方法在织物品种适应性和评价结果稳定性等方面的缺陷,提出织物折皱回复性的原位力学测试方法。通过解析原位力学测试原理,基于所测的力-位移测试曲线,提取用于表征织物折皱回复性的3个评价指标;并通过与织物折皱回复角变异系数的对比分析,说明原位力学测试方法的可靠性和稳定性好于折皱回复角法;采用相关性分析发现,折皱特征指标和织物折皱回复角在0.01水平下显著相关,表明原位力学测试方法可有效评价织物的折皱回复性能,并基于折皱特征指标构建了织物折皱回复角的多元回归模型,可用于织物折皱回复性能的全面、客观表征。     

Fabric wrinkling evaluation: a method developed using digital image analysis

The textile and clothing industry has conventionally used subjective methods for the assessment of fabric wrinkling. Indeed, the fabrics were usually evaluated subjectively in reference to a set of visual standards. However, the visual assessments of the wrinkling degree, often showing inconsistencies between wrinkle judgments of observers, are severely influenced by the color and the fabric texture which may exist. In this paper, an objective method which permits an evaluation of multidirectional wrinkling of any colored fabric has been developed using digital image analysis. This method consists in capturing images of the color wrinkled fabrics and processing them in simple steps using image‐processing software. The surface roughness, density, width, length, number, and height of the wrinkles, considered as wrinkling characteristics, were extracted. Wrinkle degree was selected to use as the comparative parameter of the result evaluation from conventional and digital methods. The wrinkle grade of each fabric sample obtained through the conventional technique was statistically compared with that obtained through the digital technique developed. This study demonstrates that the results of the digital method developed for wrinkle evaluation of colored fabrics were similar to those of conventional methods of wrinkling evaluation.     

Objective evaluation of multidirectional fabric wrinkling using image analysis

In the textile industry, the wrinkled fabrics are regularly evaluated subjectively in reference to a set of visual standards. However, due to the disadvantages of visual evaluation, which are unreliable and time-inefficient, several objective methods were recently developed. In this paper, a new objective evaluation of multidirectional realistic fabric's wrinkling generated by the French method of “cylindre creux” was proposed using the image processing. Four characteristics of wrinkled fabrics were evaluated to estimate wrinkle grade with a statistical model. The study reveals a good correlation between the objective wrinkling evaluation (using image analysis) and the subjective evaluation (using the visual standards).     

小波分析在织物缝纫平整度客观评价中的应用

提出一种基于小波分析的缝纫平整度客观评价方法,可以克服主观评价的局限性,使得缝纫外观质量的检测更加快速、准确。在对缝纫平整度标样图像进行处理的基础上,采用二维离散小波变换提取图像高频分量中细节系数的标准差作为特征向量,其在特定的分析尺度上随缝纫平整度的恶化呈现出明显的单调递增趋势。通过计算平整度评估因子（EK）确定了最佳小波和最佳小波分析尺度,从而建立了缝纫平整度等级的客观评判模型。采用棉织物的缝纫样本检验了模型,结果表明主客观评价的吻合度达到85%以上,由此验证了该方法的可行性。     

基于傅里叶频谱特征的织物平整度客观评级

为解决织物平整度人工评级主观性强,现有客观评级准确率低的问题,提出一种基于傅里叶变换、频谱特征提取、支持向量机的织物平整度评级方法。首先采集标准模板及织物样本图像,对所得图像预处理并进行傅里叶变换;在频域内构建低通滤波器,通过频域滤波以及傅里叶逆变换确定褶皱信息在频谱图中所处频率范围,称之为褶皱贡献区间;将褶皱贡献区间划分为若干特征子区间,统计每一区间内频谱幅值之和,并以此作为特征值构造特征向量;以所有训练样本的特征向量构造特征向量集,并以所得特征向量集训练支持向量机,对织物平整度进行客观评级。所采用织物样本总数为132,取其中24张及标准模板图像为训练集,其余作为测试集。结果表明,本文使用算法在织物平整度评级方面具有很好的效果,评级准确率可达96.30%。     

Investigation on the novel measurement for fabric wrinkle simulating actual wear

It is very important to measure fabric wrinkling objectively and accurately. However, the most commonly used measurements could not be employed to realistically evaluate and predict how fabric will resist wrinkle when worn on human body. In our previous study, an equipment of measuring fabric wrinkling that can simulate actual wear was proposed. In this paper, we conduct further investigation on the measurement for fabric wrinkle-simulating actual wear, including improving the equipment, validating its repeatability, and clarifying its more accurate relationship with the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) method. Results show that the measuring repeatability of the method is much better than WRA method and fabric wrinkling in the warp and bias direction plays more important part than weft. Therefore, it is advisable that WRA of the bias should be increased, whose measurement stability is the best in the WRA method as well. Equations of Wrinkle Density (WD) with WRAs are established, which can be used to estimate wrinkling of clothes after actual wear only by several WRAs of fabrics, avoiding the tedious clothes making and trial work.     

Objective evaluation of multidirectional fabric creasing

Creasing is one of the most important properties of textiles for apparel application. Most fabrics are regularly evaluated by means of etalons, that is, visual standards. Nevertheless, due to the disadvantages of visual evaluation, which is unreliable and time consuming, several objective methods were developed. In this article, a new objective method of multidirectional evaluation of creasing is described. We have proposed the test method of angle recovery using image processing. The specimen of the fabric was of a circular shape and it was measured by the method of angle recovery in various directions. We compared the results obtained from our method with the method described by Sommer and by the hollow cylinder method also. We found good conformity between the results obtained from our method and the method described by Sommer.     

以实际磨损率定量评价全毛面料的耐磨性

为了定量评价服装面料耐磨性能规律,织45块不同组织、不同密度的全毛面料,由马丁代尔耐磨仪磨损50 000次后,用烧毛法去除面料磨损后的表面毛羽,采用面料实际磨损率指标评价面料耐磨性能。通过研究,得出如下结论:面料组织显著影响面料耐磨性,平纹耐磨性最好,斜纹耐磨性最差,缎纹居中。同时面料布面平整度对面料耐磨性也有一定影响,面料越平整,耐磨性越好。