Footwear: Shoes and Boots from the Hopkins Collection

Abstract

This paper examines the influence that the costume designers of the Ballets Russes, many of whom were important artists from significant art movements of the day, had on contemporaneous fashion. It looks at why in particular the 'Ballets Russes' artists Leon Bakst and Natalia Goncharova went on to involve themselves in actual fashion production and the similarities between their work and the fashion designers producing work at the same time, principally Paul Poiret, Mariano Fortuny and Coco Chanel. Overall, this paper investigates the significance of the cultural times and of the distinct characteristics of the separate art forms, that may have encouraged avant-garde art and fashion to crossover and collaborate so unreservedly.     

Distributed dynamic load balancing with applications in radio access networks

Managing and balancing load in distributed systems remains a challenging problem in resource management, especially in networked systems where scalability concerns favour distributed and dynamic approaches. Distributed methods can also integrate well with centralised control paradigms if they provide high‐level usage statistics and control interfaces for supporting and deploying centralised policy decisions. We present a general method to compute target values for an arbitrary metric on the local system state and show that autonomous rebalancing actions based on the target values can be used to reliably and robustly improve the balance for metrics based on probabilistic risk estimates. To balance the trade‐off between balancing efficiency and cost, we introduce 2 methods of deriving rebalancing actuations from the computed targets that depend on parameters that directly affects the trade‐off. This enables policy level control of the distributed mechanism based on collected metric statistics from network elements. Evaluation results based on cellular radio access network simulations indicate that load balancing based on probabilistic overload risk metrics provides more robust balancing solutions with fewer handovers compared to a baseline setting based on average load.     

Biomaterials for ocular reconstruction

Synthetic materials have played a significant role in ophthalmic applications to improve vision for many years. This has been in four main areas in ophthalmology: ocular surface reconstruction, lens replacement, vitreous replacement and structural support and cell transplantation in the retina. Corneal replacement therapies have been developed using both synthetic acrylic-based materials and more recently naturally derived materials such as amniotic membrane. Intraocular lenses as a replacement for the natural lens post cataract surgery has been used for many years. Newer developments include the opportunity to use gels so that the lenses can accommodate but these need improving in terms of the cross-linking chemistry. Silicone oils have been used as long-term tamponade agents as vitreous replacements but recent developments in their properties has enhanced the clinical outcomes and further research into their use as drug delivery vehicles will be a major advancement. Regenerative medicine therapies to repopulate the retina to repair and replace specific cell layers require the optimisation of synthetic scaffolds and this is a major area for development. Recent developments in biomaterials have emphasised the importance of the physical, chemical and mechanical properties specific to a particular ophthalmic application. Materials science has a critical role in developing strategies to overcome vision loss.     

Cumulative Sum Control Charts for Monitoring Weibull‐distributed Time Between Events

The Weibull distribution can be used to effectively model many different failure mechanisms due to its inherent flexibility through the appropriate selection of a shape and a scale parameter. In this paper, we evaluate and compare the performance of three cumulative sum (CUSUM) control charts to monitor Weibull‐distributed time‐between‐event observations. The first two methods are the Weibull CUSUM chart and the exponential CUSUM (ECUSUM) chart. The latter is considered in literature to be robust to the assumption of the exponential distribution when observations have a Weibull distribution. For the third CUSUM chart included in this study, an adjustment in the design of the ECUSUM chart is used to account for the true underlying time‐between‐event distribution. This adjustment allows for the adjusted ECUSUM chart to be directly comparable to the Weibull CUSUM chart. By comparing the zero‐state average run length and average time to signal performance of the three charts, the ECUSUM chart is shown to be much less robust to departures from the exponential distribution than was previously claimed in the literature. We demonstrate the advantages of using one of the other two charts, which show surprisingly similar performance. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The relationship between integrated design and construction and safety on construction projects

The occurrence of accidents and injuries continues to be a major problem in construction worldwide. Even though accident statistics have been improving in most markets there are significant areas requiring further attention. The extent of integrated working between designers and constructors may be an instrumental factor. A comparison is undertaken of the accident performance of 55 large construction projects in the UK, with varying levels of design/construction integration as represented by procurement path. Although a statistical relationship between high levels of integration and low levels of accidents was weak, a follow‐up interview study provided strong support, suggesting that a lack of significance was related to the unreliability of the statistics available. The interview study also indicated reasons for this link. A key element in improved safety was seen to be better communications and a more positive relationship between designers and constructors. Further research into designing for safety for all procurement paths is recommended.     

“They have good intentions”. Young People's Experiences of Living in Melbourne's Peri-Urban Areas

While contemporary urban theories suggest that individuals have transcended their geographical community, evidence suggests that urban residents still feel ‘attached’ to place. In the literature, several socio-demographic characteristics are associated with place attachment. Scholars suggest physical features, such as community ‘greenspace’, may also influence place attachment. Yet research does not consider the relationship between one's objective proximity to greenspace or the objective availability of community greenspace on residents' place attachment. This study employs multi-level models and draws on police incident data, census data, two spatial data sets and survey data from over 4000 residents living across 148 state suburbs in Australia to assess the relationship between greenspace proximity and greenspace availability on place attachment. Our findings indicate that greater proportions and more accessible greenspace may not improve residents' attachment to their local community.