‘Comfort and Freedom’: The Duke of Windsor’s Wardrobe

Abstract

Clothing belonging to the late Duke of Windsor (1894–1972), which remained in his Paris home until it was dispersed in 1998, provides an insight into both his taste and character. As the young and popular Prince of Wales in the 1920s, he courted notions of modernity, celebrity and informality, rejecting the stiff conventions of his father’s dress and court. His innovative sense of style was emulated on both sides of the Atlantic. Throughout his life he remained loyal to the tailors and haberdashers who helped to craft his image and provide the comfort and freedom he craved in his clothes. This paper considers how some of the surviving garments in his wardrobe can help to define the man who was Prince of Wales, King Edward VIII and Duke of Windsor.     

Zandra Rhodes’ ‘Works of Art’ (1979–1988): From Feminine Frills to Goddess Saris

By 1979 the British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes (b. 1940) was well established and internationally renowned for her colourful hand screen-printed silk chiffon crinoline dresses. The femininity of her chiffon dresses ensured their continuation as best–sellers beyond 1979, but little has been written about her other dress designs during the 1980s. During this period Rhodes introduced new styles including her heavily beaded ‘exotic tunics’ and designer saris worn over hip panniers. Zandra Rhodes’ designs were perceived as feminine when worn by the designer herself, her models and her clientele; and represented as feminine in their portrayal in magazines and newspapers at the time. Using original records held in the Zandra Rhodes Archives, London, as well as material gathered during the Zandra Rhodes Digital Study Collection project (Jisc, 2011–2013), this article examines the period 1979–1988 within a framework of feminine representation and also considers Rhodes’ proposition that her designs are ‘works of art’.     

Schauder fixed point theorem based existence of periodic solution for the response of Duffing’s oscillator

An initial-boundary value problem that is Duffing’s oscillator with time varying coefficients will be studied. Using Banach’s fixed-point theorem, the existence of periodic solution of the equation will be predicted. The method applied in this paper is the Schauder second fixed point theorem, which includes the response of structures under vibratory force systems. As an example, the dynamics of nonlinear simply supported rectangular thin plate under influence of a relatively moving mass is studied. By expansion of the solution as a series of mode functions, the governing equations of motion are reduced to an ordinary differential equation for time development vibration amplitude, which is Duffing’s oscillator. Finally, a parametric study is developed, after that some numerical examples are solved, and the validity of the present analysis is clearly shown. This paper was recommended for publication in revised form by Associate Editor Maenghyo Cho Hossein Ali Sepiani received his B.S. degree in Mechanical Engineering from University of Kashan, Iran, in 2003. He then received his M.S. degree from University of Tehran, in 2006. Currently, Hossein is continuing his research at University of Tehran. His research interests include new materials (FGMs, Nano-materials, SMAs, SMPs, etc), Composites (Woven Fabrics and Fiber Metal Laminates), Smart Materials (Shape Memory Alloy, Magnet/Electro-rheological and Piezoelectric Sensors and Actuators), Intelligent structures (Structures integrated with smart materials), Vibration and control of Intelligent Structures and their application. Ahmad Feyz Dizaji got his B.S. degree from University of Tehran, Iran, in 1970. Then he continued his study in U.S. and received his PhD. degree from Michigan State University in 1983, in Applied Mathematics under the supervision of Professor Shui-ni Chow and Professor J. Mallet-Paret. Since then he has been a member of the Faculty of Engineering in University of Tehran, teaching mathematics in both undergraduate and graduate levels.     

Parental reactions to children’s negative emotions: Prospective relations to Chinese children’s psychological adjustment.

The prospective relations between five types of parental reactions to children’s negative emotions (PRCNE) and children’s psychological adjustment (behavioral problems and social competence) were examined in a two-wave longitudinal study of 425 school-age children in China. Parents (mostly mothers) reported their own PRCNE. Parents, teachers, and children or peers reported on children’s adjustment. Parental punitive reactions positively predicted externalizing problems (controlling for baseline), whereas emotion- and problem-focused reactions were negatively related to internalizing problems. Parental minimizing and encouragement of emotion expression were unrelated to adjustment. Concurrent relations were found between PRCNE and parents’ authoritative and authoritarian parenting dimensions. However, PRCNE did not uniquely predict adjustment controlling for global parenting dimensions. The findings have implications for cultural adaptation of parent-focused interventions for families of Chinese origin. (PsycINFO Database Record (c) 2010 APA, all rights reserved)     

The impact of family and community violence on children’s depression trajectories: Examining the interactions of violence exposure, family social support, and gender.

This longitudinal study used multilevel modeling to examine the relationships between witnessing intimate partner violence (IPV), community and school violence exposure (CSVE), family social support, gender, and depression over 2 years within a sample of 100 school-aged children. We found significant between-child differences in both the initial levels of depression and the trajectories of depression; depression over time was positively associated with change in witnessing IPV and CSVE and negatively associated with change in support. Two significant 3-way interactions were found: Gender and initial support, as well as gender and initial witnessing IPV, both significantly moderated the effect of change in witnessing IPV on the children’s depression over time. (PsycINFO Database Record (c) 2010 APA, all rights reserved)     

汽车拨叉热处理工艺研究

采用正交试验法，确定的汽车拨叉零件热处理工艺参数组合，满足使用要求；分析了该工艺形成的拨叉表层碳浓度情况和碳浓度梯度分布，获得浅层碳氮共渗碳浓度梯度分布对性能的影响，采用在升温阶段手动通入适量氨气的工艺调整方法，可以缩短均温时间，保证表面硬度达到技术要求，探索了合适氨气流量确保表层不出现过量残余奥氏体和黑色组织的机理，选用MT25656分级淬火油，可以满足零件变形要求。     

“Interpreting the interest-efficacy association from a RIASEC perspective”: Correction.

Reports an error in "Interpreting the interest–efficacy association from a RIASEC perspective" by Patrick Ian Armstrong and David L. Vogel (Journal of Counseling Psychology, 2009[Jul], Vol 56[3], 392-407). In the article, an incorrect value was reported for the correlation between Artistic and Social occupational interests in Table 1 (p. 400), incorrect values were reported for some of the fit indices presented in Table 2 (p. 402), and incorrect values were reported for the fit indices presented in Table 5 (p. 404). The correct value for the correlation between Artistic and Social occupational interests is r = .44. Attached are the fit indices that are correct for the Structural Equation Models presented in Table 2 and Table 5. (The following abstract of the original article appeared in record 2009-10122-005.) Social cognitive career theory (SCCT) defines self-efficacy as the critical variable that influences the development of career-related beliefs and attitudes, including interest. In comparison, the authors propose that J. L. Holland’s (1997) theory of Realistic, Investigative, Artistic, Social, Enterprising, and Conventional (RIASEC) types can be interpreted as supporting an alternative model in which both interest and self-efficacy are components of an individual’s vocational identity. Meta-analytic research indicates that RIASEC-based measures of interest and self-efficacy are positively correlated, but these results are also interpreted as supporting the distinctness of the two constructs. The present study evaluates links between interest and self-efficacy with occupation- and activity-based measures of interest and self-efficacy. Multidimensional scaling, cluster analysis, and structural equation modeling results suggest that observed correlations between interest and self-efficacy measures can be attributed to shared Holland-type characteristics of the measures. These results support a Holland-based integrated model of individual differences, with both interest and self-efficacy indicators of RIASEC types, thereby raising questions about the ordering of self-efficacy and interest measures in the SCCT model but also highlighting the importance of assessing both constructs in applied settings. (PsycINFO Database Record (c) 2010 APA, all rights reserved)     

The oxidative and lipolytic stability of Yayık butter produced from different species of mammals milk (cow,sheep, goat) yoghurt

Yay?k butter, made from yoghurt, is one of the traditional dairy products in Anatolia In this study, some properties of Yay?k butter produced from cow, sheep, and goat yoghurts have been observed during 30 days of storage at 4–5 °C. In this purpose yoghurts were produced from different species milks then these yoghurts were used as a raw material for production of Yay?k butters samples. On the first day of the storage, differences in pH of serum among the butter produced from different mammals were statistically significant. The highest value of lactic acid was measured in the sample of sheep butter (SB). The level of lactic acid in Yay?k butters was significantly different. Goat butter (GB) had weaker oxidative stability and significantly higher peroxide value than those of other samples. The highest accumulation of the free fatty acids has been detected in sample GB. All samples of Yay?k butter received almost the same score on the first day of the storage, but on day 30 some flavour defects in sample GB were noted by the panelists.     

On Saint-Venant’s problem for anisotropic, inhomogeneous, cylindrical Cosserat elastic shells

We investigate the static deformation of cylindrical elastic shells, using the theory of Cosserat surfaces. We consider anisotropic and inhomogeneous cylindrical shells with arbitrary (open or closed) cross-section. The constitutive coefficients are assumed to be independent of the axial coordinate. In the context of linearized theory, we determine a solution of the relaxed Saint-Venant’s problem. Finally, we apply the general results in the special cases of circular cylindrical shells and of Cosserat plates made from an orthotropic material.     

Meeting the gods: apotheoses and exchanges of the early encounter

ABSTRACT

In November 1519, Motēuczōma Xōcoyōtl, Marina/Malīntzin and Hernán Cortés met, conversed, and exchanged gifts. According to Cortés's letters to Charles V, Motēuczōma identified him as a returned ancestral chieftain (often considered to be the deity Quetzalcōātl). By reading the accounts of their gift exchange as mythohistorical texts presenting a uniquely contact perspective, we may gain insight into how both parties negotiated linguistic, cultural, and religious differences in order to shape the situation each in his best interest. The visual record of their exchange suggests that Motēuczōma gave Cortés the vestments of the gods in order to transform him into a tēīxīptla, a localized deity embodiment, as a precursor to possible sacrifice. Alphabetic accounts of their meeting describe Mesoamericans identifying Cortés and his companions as tēteoh (deities), a concept Cortés accepts insofar as it advances his military, political, and economic agendas. I argue that understanding these texts as mythohistories with contact perspectives complicates—or perhaps clarifies—their reading by acknowledging that they both betray Mesoamericans and belie Europeans.