EFFECT OF ELASTOMER ON WRINKLE RECOVERY OF SILK AND SILK/WOOL BLEND FABRICS

An investigation is described in which various polyfunctional elastomers( cationic methylaminopolysiloxane,nonic concentrated glyoxal resin and anionicpolyurethane etc. ) were applied on silk,wool and silk/ wool blend fabrics forimprovement wrinkle recovery.A study on this paper describes wrinkle recovery oftreated fabrics by the thermobench method,and ascertains reason which elastomerimproves wrinkle recovery of silk and silk/ wool blend fabrics according as results ofthe DSC,the SEM and the acid or alkali resistance.     

扁管加工防褶皱的研究

本文对扁管压成弯管时容易起褶皱或折断的现象进行了理论上的探讨,并提出了解决这一问题的措施。     

Prediction on Deflection of Inflated Beam

The bending stiffness of the inflated beam is considered as a constant before wrinkles appear, and it decreases obviously as wrinkles propagate. The formula of the bending stiffness is obtained based on the membrane theory in this paper. Furthermore, the definition of dimensionless bending stiffness factor is presented; the relationship of bending stiffness factor and wrinkling factor is derived; the bending stiffness factor is simplified as different linear functions with wrinkling factor, and the simplified model of bending stiffness of inflated beam under bending is also obtained. The bending stiffness including expression of wrinkling factor is substituted into the deflection differential equation, and then the slope and deflection equation of the inflated beam is deduced by integrating the deflection differential equation. Finally, the load-deflection curve is obtained, which is compared with the experimental data in a previous paper. It has a good agreement with each other.     

基于着装需求的适体型女上衣板型修正探讨

适体造型女上衣已经成为女性在正式场合下的主要着装,为了实现舒适美观的着装需求,这类女装在材料、款式、结构、工艺等方面都有一定要求,既要体现女性的形体美,又要满足基本的动态舒适性。具体到结构方面,板型设计的合理性便成为技术层面的难题。针对目前适体造型女上衣的常见外观弊病,经过长期的观察、研究、试验,从结构理论的角度分析原因,提出相应的解决思路,并以衣身、袖子的3种弊病为例,文图对应说明具体的板型修正方法,进而总结出关键部位结构设计的量化要求,可以为板型设计人员提供切实有效的帮助。     

芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响

文章采用全聚纺纺纱方式生产了JC/PET、JC/PTT、JC/SPH、JC/T400四种包芯纱和一种纯棉纱,利用这五种纱线织造了规格相同的五种机织物。分别利用客观与主观评价法,评价织物的抗皱性及平整度等级,同时测试了织物的拉伸弹性回复率,以研究芯丝种类对织物抗皱性及抗变形性的影响。结果表明:芯丝的加入可以改善纯棉织物的平整度;长丝的初始模量、弹性影响织物的抗皱等级,SPH的初始模量最高、T400的弹性回复性最好,因此JC/SPH和JC/T400包芯纱织物抗皱等级最高,可以达到3. 5级;且这两种长丝的表面均有沟槽,截面为异形,起到毛细管作用,其织物具有较好的吸湿排汗作用,是开发高保形免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

棉织物的柠檬酸与有机硅复合整理

为了提高棉织物的疏水性能和抗皱性能,采用柠檬酸与侧链乙烯基聚硅氧烷(相对分子质量5000)改性聚丙烯酸酯(PASi)作为复合整理剂对棉织物进行整理.研究了复配种类、用量、焙烘温度和时间对织物抗皱性能、疏水性能、白度、透湿性能的影响.结果 表明:柠檬酸与PASi复配使用,用量均为10 g/L,160℃焙烘3 min时,整...     

混合多羧酸、复配催化剂对真丝织物抗皱整理的探讨

探讨了柠檬酸(CA)和1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸(BTCA)混合用于真丝织物无甲醛抗皱整理的效果,分析了在相同的整理工艺条件下,用不同配比的CA和BTCA整理真丝织物的折皱回复角、断裂强力、增重率和硬挺度的变化,得出w(CA)为4%、w(BTCA)为4%较合适.同时探讨了在相同的整理工艺条件下,用含磷和不含磷的混合催化剂整理的效果,结果证明混合的无磷催化剂柠檬酸钠和酒石酸钠,可代替含磷的混合催化剂.     

聚马来酸防皱整理剂的合成与应用

通过L9(34)正交试验,选择具有合适分子量的聚马来酸(PMA)无醛防皱整理剂和最优防皱整理工艺.并对棉织物进行防皱整理,获得良好的防皱整理效果,WRA值可达到243.5°,断裂强度保留率在70%以上.同时优选出合成PMA的最佳条件.     

聚合-交联整理棉织物的断裂强力损失

采用马来酸(MA)和衣康酸(IA)或单独采用MA以在位聚合交联法对棉织物进行免烫整理,并对整理品的断裂强力与折皱回复角、酯键量之间的相关性进行了分析,提出用强力损失因子BSLF这一指标来判断免烫整理品的强力损失程度。结果表明,经不同焙烘条件处理的棉织物其酯键量与折皱回复角、断裂强力保留率之间存在着良好的线性关系;织物的断裂强力与折皱回复角之间也具有良好的线性关系,并推导出该拟合直线斜率与BSLF间的数学关系式。与拟合直线的斜率相比,BSLF计算方便,为比较不同整理体系的强力损失程度提供了一种方法。     

RESEARCH ON HYDROFORMING TUBULAR PART WITH LARGE PERIMETER DIFFERENCE

The tube hydroforming process for manufacturing the tubular part with large perimeter difference was studied by means of experiments and FE simulation. It is an asymmetrical one and the expansion ratio is 70 percent. The part is successfully hydroformed by applying the useful wrinkles to accumulate suffcient metal in the area with large expansion ratio. The thickness distribution is analyzed, and the maximum thinning ratio of the part is 21.6 percent. It is shown from the experiment and simulation results that the tubular part with large perimeter difference, long expansion area and asymmetrical shape can be obtained in one step, applying the useful wrinkles. Typical failure modes were analyzed.