The role of primary alkanolamines in cosmetic formulation

Alkaline products are commonly used in cosmetic preparations as neutralizing agents for acid-functional raw materials. Primary alkanolamines can provide positive attributes in such cases. The properties of nitroparaffin-derived primary alkanolamines are compared here with the general requirements for cosmetic-type acid-neutralizing materials.
Acid-functional copolymers, used as hair fixatives in both aerosol and non-aerosol products, are efficiently solubilized by neutralization with 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (amino-methylpropanol) in a variety of aqueous and non-aqueous systems. The effects of such neutralization on resultant film properties which influence product performance are discussed in detail.
Upon neutralization, crosslinked acrylic-acid polymers of varying molecular weights (carbomers) provide significant benefits when used as thickeners, gellants or emulsifiers in cosmetic products. New data are added to previous knowledge on the use of tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (tromethamine) as a neutralizing agent for three resins, especially in gelled formulations. Alcohol compatibility, pH behaviour, and viscosity characteristics of such formulations are described. In addition, toxicological considerations of primary alkanolamines are addressed.
Further to the above applications, nitroparaffin-derived primary alkanolamines can be effectively used as cosmetic emulsifiers (in the form of their fatty-acid soaps), dispersants or co-dispersants for particulate-containing products, and pH buffers/stabilizers.     

Properties and structure of elastomeric two-stage emulsion interpenetrating networks

Interpenetrating polymer networks (IPNs) consist of two crosslinked polymers which form a network within a network. Bulk-prepared IPNs are thermosetting and cannot be processed due to the formation of a macroscopic network. Emulsion IPNs, although thermosetting, can be processed as thermoplastic materials. This is due to a special particle-slippage flow mechanism which is practically insensitive to molecular weight. The morphology of the reported latex particles is unique in the sense that very small polystyrene domains are formed by phase-separation of polymerizing styrene added to a seeded flexible polyacrylate latex. Compression or injection moulded specimens of these crosslinked elastomeric materials show significant mechanical properties. Some properties and structural observations using a special electron microscopy technique are described in this article. This method is based on the differential radiation damage to various polymers embedded in ice and can be used as an analytical tool to determine the microstructure of certain multiphase systems.     

Investigating Factors Affecting Water-In-Diesel Fuel Nanoemulsions

In this work, water-in-diesel fuel nanoemulsions were prepared with mixed nonionic surfactants. Several mixtures of sorbitan monooleate and polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate, with different Hydrophilic–Lipophilic Balance (HLB) values (9.6, 9.8, 10, 10.2 and 10.4) were prepared to achieve the optimal HLB value. Three mixed surfactant concentrations were prepared at 6, 8 and 10 wt% to identify the optimum concentration. Five emulsions with different water contents: 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 % (wt/wt) were prepared using a high energy method under the optimum conditions (HLB = 10 and mixed surfactant concentration = 10 %). The effect of the HLB value, mixed surfactant concentration and water content on the droplet size has been studied. The interfacial tension and thermodynamic properties of the individual and the blended emulsifiers were investigated. Droplet size of the prepared nanoemulsions was determined by dynamic light scattering and the nanoemulsion stability was assessed by measuring the variation of the droplet size as a function of time. From the results obtained, it was found that the mean droplet size was formed between 49.5 and 190 nm depending on the HLB value, surfactant concentration and water content of the blended emulsifiers.     

Ultrastrong Anchoring Yet Barrier‐Free Adsorption of Composite Microgels at Liquid Interfaces

Microgel particles display an interesting duality with properties attributed typically both to polymeric and colloidal systems. When adsorbed at a liquid‐liquid interface, this duality becomes particularly apparent as the various phenomena at play are governed by different aspects of these soft and responsive particles. The introduction of a solid, fluorescently labeled, polystyrene core into the microgels allows direct and accurate visualization without the necessity of potential perturbing sample preparation techniques. By combining in‐situ imaging and tensiometry, we determine that composite microgels at a wide variety of oil‐water interfaces anchor strongly, with adsorption energies of approximately 10⁶ k_BT, typical for particle adsorption, yet accumulate at the interface spontaneously without any energy barrier, which is more typical for polymers. The high adsorption energies allow the particle to spontaneously form very dense crystalline packings at the liquid interface in which the microgels are significantly compressed with respect to their swollen state in bulk solutions. Finally, we demonstrate the unique nature of these particles by producing highly stable and monodisperse microgel‐stabilized droplets using microfluidics.     

Double‐Emulsion Globules as a Tool to Produce 2D Patterned Metal Deposits Using Electro‐Colloidal Lithography

A technique developed to self assemble solid colloidal particles under a sinusoidal electric field (AC field) is adapted to soft W/O/W double‐emulsion globules, and is exploited for surface patterning. Double‐emulsions containing cupric ions are prepared, placed between two planar ITO electrodes and submitted to a transversal AC field which induced their ordering into hexagonal 2D‐arrays. The characteristic spacing is monitored by varying the globule volume fraction. Such self‐assembly is used to fabricate copper‐depleted arrays, using globules as both a metal precursor reservoir/provider and as a mask. The ordered globule monolayer is then submitted to a DC field to induce metal precursor leakage and its reduction onto the electrode. The organized, oily and dielectric globules generate arrays of holes (c.a. 7 μm) into a thin copper deposit (thickness of 12 nm). Holes are shown to be formed below the globules, and their separation (from 10 to 30 μm) can be tuned as deduced from direct observations using optical and atomic force microscopy.     

Hybrid Capsules via Self‐Assembly of Thermoresponsive and Interfacially Active Bionanoparticle–Polymer Conjugates

New bionanoparticles have been prepared from horse spleen ferritin by grafting thermoresponsive poly(N‐isopropyl acrylamide) (PNIPAAm) and photo‐crosslinkable 2‐(dimethyl maleinimido)‐N‐ethyl‐acrylamide (DMIAAm) from the protein surface. The 72 addressable amino groups on the exterior of HSF were modified with N‐hydroxysuccinimide‐activated 2‐bromo‐isobutyrate to form a macro‐initiator for atom transfer radical polymerization, which was performed in water/DMF solutions at low temperature. The modification of the HSF and the presence of the polymer shell were confirmed by size exclusion chromatography (SEC), sodium dodecyl sulfate‐polyacrylamide gel‐electrophoresis, transmission electron microscopy, and scanning force microscopy. The thermoresponsive behavior of the ferritin‐PNIPAAm conjugates was investigated in solution by UV–vis spectroscopy showing a phase transition in the form of a cloud point around 32 °C. Further, dynamic light scattering revealed an increasing hydrodynamic radius around this transition, indicating aggregation of the particles at elevated temperatures which was confirmed by transmission electron microscopy. Initial experiments show that the particles are highly surface active, much more than the individual components alone, which was demonstrated by pendant‐drop interfacial tension measurements. This leads to the fact that they form stable Pickering emulsions, i.e., emulsion droplets decorated with polymer‐modified bionanoparticles which can be cross‐linked successively. This allows the formation of capsules with thermoresponsiveness for controlled release purposes, e.g., in drug delivery.     

Poly(urethane) cationomers from poly(propylene) glycol and isophorone diisocyanate: emulsion characteristics and tensile properties of cast films

Poly(urethane) (PU) cationomers were synthesized from poly(propylene) glycol (PPG), isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), and N-methyldiethanolamine (MDEA) following a prepolymer mixing process. Emulsions were obtained by adding water to the prepolymer solutions. Particle size and emulsion viscosity were studied in response to the MDEA content, degree of neutralization, and solid content of emulsion. It was found that at fixed solids content emulsion viscosity can be varied over 100 times depending on the MDEA content of the prepolymer and the degree of neutralization with acetic acid. Tensile properties of the emulsion cast film showed the increase in modulus and strength with degree of neutralization, as well as MDEA content.     

Methods for water resistance testing of sun protection products

Water resistance of sun protection products has been found to be best determined by the following methods: (1) Tests for determining UVL filter adherence to merino wool; this gives a rough value for orientation. Values in excess of 6% are suggestive of satisfactory adherence. (2) Tests for determining water resistance of sunscreen products on pig skin constitute a further essential step. Values in excess of 50% provide a realistic basis for tests in humans. In addition to filter adherence the product base, i.e. primarily the emulsifiers, are of special significance. Adequate results can be obtained with both W/O and O/W systems. Tests on volunteers are best done at the time of determining the sun protection factor, i.e. when simulating the events during a 2–3 h sunbath. Simulation should involve a single application of the test product in a pre-defined quantity and all activities conmmonly done in sunlight, e.g. swimming, as well as intermittent exercises to induce sweating. Values are considered as excellent, if 1 MED is not exceeded after 3 h exposure. Sun protection products with this characteristic qualify as adequate ‘all-day’ sunscreen for individuals with average sensitivity. Methodes pour mesurer la résistance à l'eau des produits anti-solaires