烘燥对活性染料染色丝绸的颜色损伤

为阐明烘燥对丝绸织物颜色损伤的机理,开展了干衣机烘燥微环境中丝绸织物颜色变化规律和脱落染料组分鉴定研究。文章采用活性红195,以一浴一步法对桑蚕丝织物染色并烘燥不同的时间周期。织物颜色测试结果表明,经过不同烘燥周期后丝织物的L^*、a^*、b^*值都发生了变化。尤其是在经过20个烘燥周期后,与原试样相比,丝织物的L^*、a^*、b^*值和总色差ΔE变化较为显著。为研究染料烘燥时脱落的成分,采用去离子水将沾色试样上沾染的浮色物质洗脱后进行反向高效液相色谱(RP-HPLC)和核磁共振氢谱(H-NMR)测试。结果表明：与活性红195水解反应生成3个中间产物和1个最终产物的现象不同,沾色试样洗脱液中仅检出染料水解的最终产物。由此推断,在染色或皂洗时染料会发生水解并吸附在纤维表面和孔隙内部,在烘燥时未与纤维反应的水解染料会从纤维上脱落,这是造成丝绸织物烘燥颜色变化的主要原因之一。     

Preparation and uncertainty evaluation of standard samples for testing of dye transfer inhibition in washing北大核心CSCD

As for domestic washing the problem of fabric dye transfer in washing is becoming more and more serious which leads to the decrease of added value of fabrics and affects the aesthetics. With the improvement of people's living standards the demand for fabrics with high color saturation is increasing day by day. However fabrics with high color saturation are often accompanied by problems such as fabric dye transfer in the washing process which has become a pain point in clothing washing. For this reason washing machines at home and abroad are generally equipped with dye transfer inhibition and color protection washing procedures to alleviate the dye transfer phenomenon caused by mixed washing. Jiangnan University and Wuxi Little Swan Electric Co. Ltd. have carried out a series of studies on the formulation of dye transfer inhibition washing standards and the development of standard samples. In order to realize scientific and objective evaluation of dye transfer inhibition performance and solve the problem of lack of standard samples in washing dye transfer inhibition tests white cloth standard samples and red cloth standard samples for washing dye transfer inhibition tests were prepared to simulate light color clothes and dark color clothes in mixed washing. The color depth and water fastness of the prepared standard color cloth are 0. 2% and grade 3 respectively which comply with the provisions of GB / T 12490 - 2014 Textiles—Tests for Colour Fastness—Color Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering. The homogeneity of standard white cloth and standard red cloth were tested by variance analysis the short-term stability test and long-term stability test were carried out for the data with an interval of one month and one year respectively by using the stability test formula. For the whiteness and color difference data tested by seven laboratories in order to analyze the normality of the fixed value data it is necessary to conduct a normality test on the obtained data. For this reason the skewness and kurtosis methods are used to conduct a normality test. The indicators tested include the average standard error standard deviation skewness skewness standard deviation kurtosis and kurtosis standard deviation etc. And Cochrane criterion and Dixon criterion are used to judge whether there are outliers. The indicators tested include statistics low-end outliers and high-end outliers. When calculating the uncertainty the uniformity short-term stability long-term stability and uncertainty introduced in the process of setting are calculated respectively to obtain the combined uncertainty. The results show that the standard white cloth and standard colored cloth have good uniformity and high stability. The combined uncertainty of the standard white cloth is 0. 365 8 and the combined uncertainty of the standard color cloth is 0. 358 0. The uncertainty mainly comes from the uncertainty introduced in the process of value determination. The uncertainty introduced by the uniformity short-term stability and long-term stability has little impact. This paper has prepared the standard sample for washing dye transfer inhibition test and provided the standard sample that is missing in the washing dye transfer inhibition test which is expected to realize the objective evaluation of the dye transfer inhibition performance promote the development of the dye transfer inhibition program carried by the washing machine and realize the scientific evaluation of the washing dye transfer inhibition performance. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.