防晒产品抗水性效能的体外测定方法

采用3MTranspore^MT多孔薄膜作为载体，高效液相色谱仪作为检测手段，通过对防晒产品浸入水中前后防晒剂量的测定以及有关实验条件的考察，建立了一种新的防晒产品抗水性效能测定的体外实验方法。实验结果表明，具有抗水性的防晒产品，经体外抗水性试验后，其所含的各防晒剂量仍是原来的90％以上，而非抗水性的防晒产品，其所含的各防晒剂量有些只有原来的10％左右，两者差别显著；同时在一定范围内，各种实验条件的改变，对防晒产品抗水性效能的测定没有影响，这些说明了该测试方法是可行的。另外，由于该法是体外测试，因而具有费用低、快速简便的特点。     

Physicochemical study on microencapsulation of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin in dermal preparations

Objective: To investigate the effect of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) concentration on the physicochemical properties of the sunscreen agents, namely oxybenzone (Oxy), octocrylene (Oct), and ethylhexyl-methoxy-cinnamate (Cin), in aqueous solution and cream formulations. Methods: The inclusion complexes of sunscreen agents with hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) in aqueous solution and solid phase were studied by UV-vis spectrophotmetery, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and 13C-NMR techniques. The photodegradation reaction of the sunscreen agents' molecules in lotion was explored using UV-vis spectrophotometry and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Results: The formation of the inclusion complexes was confirmed experimentally using DSC, SEM, and 13C-NMR. The results of spectrophotometric and HPLC studies have shown that the inclusion complexation with HP-β-CD has the potential to enhance the photostability of the selected sunscreen agents in lotion. HPLC results indicated that HP-β-CD has approximately increases the photostability of Oct by six- to eightfold. Moreover, the presence of HP-β-CD in lotion controlled the isomerization process of Cin to a certain degree, which was found to be a function of the amount of HP-β-CD added. Conclusions: It has been demonstrated that the photostability of the tested sunscreen agents has been enhanced upon forming inclusion complexes with HP-β-CD in lotion. The results of this study demonstrate that HP-β-CD can be utilized as photostabilizer additive for enhancing the photostability of the sunscreen agents' molecules.     

TiO2纳米颗粒稳定的Pickering乳液用作防晒乳成分研究

采用烷基化改性的TiO_2纳米颗粒为稳定剂,化妆品级白油为油相,黄芪水溶液为水相,制备了一种载药Pickering乳液。利用TEM、接触角测试仪和光学显微镜对TiO_2纳米颗粒及载药Pickering乳液进行了表征。结果表明,该纳米颗粒分散性良好、尺寸均匀,具备良好的稳定乳液能力;通过紫外吸收测试,控制释放药物和清洗对照实验,表明该载药Pickering乳液具有较高的防晒效果和随光照时间控制释放药物以及易于从皮肤表面清洗的特性。     

Electroanalytical determination of the sunscreen agent octocrylene in cosmetic products

An electroanalytical method was developed to detect and quantify the sunscreen agent octocrylene (OCR) in cosmetic products. The method was based on electrochemical reduction, using voltammetric techniques. OCR was reduced at -0.97 V vs. Ag/AgCl on a glassy carbon electrode using a mixture of Britton-Robinson buffer (0.04 mol L(-1)) and ethanol (7 : 3, v/v) as the supporting electrolyte solution. Under optimized conditions and square-wave voltammetry, OCR response was linear from 5.0 × 10(-6) to 8.0 × 10(-5) mol L(-1) (r = 0.9995), with a limit of detection of 2.8 × 10(-6) mol L(-1). The proposed electroanalytical method proved simple, fast and suitable for detection and quantification of OCR in samples of cosmetic products, with satisfactory results in the recovery test and analytical determination in real samples.     

天然植物油在防晒化妆品中的功效研究进展

随着人们对防晒认知的提高,防晒化妆品的需求不断增加,市场发展迅速。天然植物油基化妆品绿色环保,使用安全,深受消费者青睐。我国植物资源丰富,部分植物油除不饱和脂肪酸外,还含有黄酮类、类胡萝卜素、维生素E等多种功能性化合物,具有抗氧化和防紫外线的作用。介绍了我国几种天然植物油(山茶油、牡丹籽油、橄榄油、辣木籽油、杏仁油、椰子油、乳木果油、猕猴桃籽油、酪梨油、葡萄籽油和紫苏籽油)抗氧化和防紫外线的功效及在防晒化妆品中的应用,以期为开发清爽高SPF值防晒化妆品提供参考。     

分子筛基纳米复合防晒剂的制备和表征及应用研究

利用离子交换法制备了一种新型的分子筛基主客体纳米复合FeO3-Y防晒剂。通过XRD、ICP、TEM和UV-vis等分析表征手段证实：由于客体团簇在分子筛的孔道中有序排列,即使在较低的含量下,这种主客体复合体系依然表现出很高的紫外吸收作用。与商品级纳米二氧化钛相比,这种防晒剂由于不具有光催化氧化性和透皮的安全隐患,所以具有更高的安全性。在粉底化妆品中的初步应用研究结果表明：这种复合防晒剂在配方中表现出了明显的抗紫外性质,与纳米二氧化钛复配后其抗紫外性质有很大提高。     

反相高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的几种防晒剂

采用反相高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的10种防晒剂,用色谱柱为Waters Symmetry shield C18柱(250mm ×4.6 mm i.d,5 μm),V(甲醇):V(水)=85:15为流动相,检测波长310 nm,回收率为98.1%～101.0%,相对标准偏差小于5%.     

2-Acetylindan-1,3-dione and its Cu(2+) and Zn(2+) complexes as promising sunscreen agents

In continuation of a previous spectroscopic and quantum chemical study on 2-acetylindan-1,3-dione (2AID), the spectral properties and photostability of 2AID and its Cu(2+) and Zn(2+) complexes in different solvents are reported. Comparison is made with the photostability of two commercially available sunscreens: benzophenone-3 and octylmethoxycinnamate. 2AID exhibits a higher photostability, high molar absorption coefficient (42 000 m(-1) cm(-1)) at lambda(max) and broad-spectrum UV-protection properties. The hypothesis that the strong intramolecular H-bonding is responsible for the higher photostability was confirmed by studying the photodegradation upon irradiation with UV light of 2AID in hydrogen bond-breaking solvent, DMSO. The data obtained show that 2AID undergoes rapid degradation in this solvent. It is found that Cu(2+) and Zn(2+)-2AID complexes show higher photostability in DMSO than 2AID itself.     

Latex as a sunscreen carrier in a silicone vehicle

This work comprises a study of the adsorption-desorption of three chemical sunscreens on the polymer surface of the latex Aquacoat, which has a high specific surface. The aim was to delay the release of these filters from the silicone excipient containing them and therefore increasing the substantivity, i.e. prolonging the sunscreening effect.     

In vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors of sunscreen lotions with octylmethoxycinnamate

The aim of this work was to evaluate the correlation between in vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors (SPF) of sunscreen lotions containing the synthetic sunscreen octyl methoxycinnamate. Three sunscreen lotions containing either 2, 4.5 or 7.5% octyl methoxycinnamate were prepared. The in vitro SPFs of these sunscreen lotions were determined according to the spectrophotometric method of Mansur et al. The in vivo SPF values were determined according to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) method. The results indicate that there was a good correlation between the in vitro and in vivo determinations for the sunscreen lotions examined.