A simple method for the objective characterisation of fabric softness. Part 1: Influence of bleaching,dyeing and crosslinking of wool*

A simple method for the characterisation of fabric softness using a conventional tensile tester and a special measurement device has been developed. The method is demonstrated to be especially useful in detecting changes in softness of a given substrate due to different treatments. The results obtained, particularly hysteresis at 75% of the maximum extension, provide a good correlation with subjective ranking for samples that are subjectively distinguishable; they also differentiate well between samples which seem subjectively indistinguishable. Screening tests were carried out, mainly on wool fabrics, to find the effect of different treatments such as oxidative (alkaline and acidic) and reductive (Blankit IN) bleaching, dyeing with acid and a 1:2 metal complex, chrome and (mono and bi)reactive dyes, the effect of the antisetting agent Basolan AS (BASF) and of crosslinking with Irgasol HTW (CGY) on fabric softness.