基于面料性能的合体针织上装结构设计优化

文章从合体西装和连衣裙结构设计角度出发,分析探讨针织与机织面料性能的差异,以及性能差异对服装外观和合体性的影响,并进行样板修正。实验选择典型机织平纹织物和针织圆纬衬垫织物为服装面料,对其进行硬挺度、悬垂性、拉伸弹性的测试,制作165/88A的西装和连衣裙样衣,对比分析服装横向维度、纵向长度以及斜向部位的尺寸差异,探讨面料不同性能对成衣上身尺寸的影响。实验结果表明:针织西装的肩部位置易发生变形,可适当将肩点内收0~0.3 cm,背宽内收0~0.4 cm;对于纵向尺寸较大的针织服装如连衣裙等,使用288.03 g/m2左右的面料时可在0~1 cm范围内缩短上衣长及裙长;结合针织面料横、纵和斜向的弹性伸长率可得到各部位样板的优化尺寸,即机织样板尺寸×各部位的尺寸变化率。

Structure Optimization of Fitted Knitted Tops Based on Fabric Properties

From the perspective of structure design of fitted suit and dress,this paper analyzes the properties difference between knitted fabrics and woven fabrics,as well as the influence on the aesthetic performance and fitness,then modifies the structure.In the experiment,conventional woven plain cloth and circular knitted sandwiched fabric are selected as garment fabrics,and their stiffness,draping performance,and stretch elasticity are tested.165/88A size of suit and dress sample were made,the experiment compared and analyzed the size difference of horizontal dimension,longitudinal length and oblique parts,so as to explore the influence of different properties’fabrics on the size of the upper part size.Results showed that:the shoulder position of the knitted suit is prone to deformation,therefore,the acromion should be reduced 0-0.3 cm,and the shoulder width should be reduced 0-0.4 cm;for some knitted clothing with large vertical size,like dresses,when using fabrics with a weight of 288.03 g/m2,the length of the tops and dress should be reduced 0-1 cm;the optimized size of each part of the model can be obtained based on elastic elongation of knitted fabrics in terms of horizontal,vertical and diagonal directions,which is namely that the size of the woven model multiplies the change rate of the size of each part.