拉舍尔蕾丝边部的结构设计与分离工艺

为提高拉舍尔蕾丝边部设计质量,降低边部分离时的次品率,在深入分析蕾丝边部成形原理基础上研究了边部结构工艺和边部分离方法。首先基于贾卡拉舍尔和多梳拉舍尔蕾丝边部形态对蕾丝边部进行了分类,探讨了直边型、波边型和复合型边部的结构特点,进一步从贾卡提花原理和梳栉垫纱规律方面阐述“牙”型、横向“睫毛”型、纵向“睫毛”型和包边型边部结构的设计要求及编织方法;为高效分离各类蕾丝边部,分析了基于组织结构设计、穿经循环设计和原料选择的边部分离方法,其中重点研究了适用于多梳垫纱、贾卡同向垫纱和贾卡反向垫纱的脱散分离法。

Structure design and separation technology of Raschel lace selvage

In order to efficiently improve selvage design of Raschel lace and reduce defective rate when separating selvages, this paper conducted a further research on its selvage structure technique and separation approach based on primary knitting method. Firstly the selvages of Raschel laces and Jacquard laces were classified into straight, wavy and compound types according to their specific motographic characters. Structures used in these selvages are mainly teeth type, horizontal eyelash type, longitudinal eyelash type and borderline type. Design requirements and knitting method of these structures were further stated from aspects of Jacquard principle and multi-bar lapping algorithm. In order to properly separate these structural selvages, separation techniques were then analyzed based on selvage structure formation, threading cycle and yarn selection. Especially, more attention was paid on the raveling separation method which works well for multi-bar Raschel technology and Jacquard Raschel technology with both similar and opposite lappings.