四针床全成形编织工艺及其应用

为研究四针床电脑横机的成形原理、成形方式以及全成形产品设计方法，借助全成形电脑横机和DS-ONEAPPX 3 设计系统，分析不等长编织、引返、收放针、褶裥、平移对接等编织技术在筒状编织与非筒状编织时的编织工艺，并将编织工艺应用于全成形无袖连衣裙。结果表明：全成形服装后领条与后领弧线拼接时，可依据后领弧的横向与后领条纵向的密度差异确定编织比率；非筒状编织时，采用纱嘴回踢可有效解决停放纱嘴位置和纱嘴上纱线对翻针的影响；在编织前后针床线圈数量相差较大的筒状织物时，需通过翻针将线圈移至线圈较少的针床，使前后针床编织宽度一致。

Process and application of full-forming knitting with four-needle bed

In order to study the forming principle, forming method and the corresponding full-forming product design method of four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine, detailed analysis of the forming method of unequal length knitting, lead back, narrowing and widening,pleat, translational docking and other knitting technology in tubular knitting was carried out by means of a full-forming computerized flat knitting machine combined with DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system. The knitting process was applied in full-forming sleeveless dress. The results show that when the rear collar strip of the full-forming garment is spliced with the rear collar arc, the knittingratio can be determinedaccording to thedifference between transverse density of the rear collar arc and the longitudinal density of the rear collar strip. During non-tubular knitting kicking yarn feeder back is used to solve the technical problems of the influence of the yarn feeder parking position and yarn feeding of the yarn feeder on needle turning. When knitting tubular fabric with large difference between the stitch numbers of front and rear needle beds, needle turning is needed to move the stitch to the needle bed with a small number of stitches, so that the knitting width of the front and rear needle beds is consistant.