男衬衫袖口制作工艺优化及其应用

针对男衬衫袖口部件中传统袖头长度制图方法不能与袖口尺寸完全匹配和袖衩制作工艺流程复杂且外观不平整美观等问题，对常见的4 种传统袖头长度制图方法和宝剑头袖衩工艺流程进行分析，借鉴开袋工艺制作先缝后剪的方法，进行袖衩工艺流程的优化设计，提出袖衩工艺的新方法，分别制作了不同宽度的袖衩，认为新的袖头长度计算方法应为袖口净尺寸与门襟袖衩宽之和较为合理。优化后的袖衩工艺方法和袖头制图方法提高了男衬衫袖口缝制的生产效率与外观平整度，同时该袖衩工艺和袖头制图方法也可应用到服装的其他部位，有助于提高企业生产效率。

Process optimization and practical application of man shirt cuff

In view of the problem ofincapabile matching in the cuff size by the conventional sleeve caplength drawing method for men's shirt cuffs, the complicated process and poor appearance ofsleeve plackets, common four conventional sleeve cap size drawing methods and process flows of rooftop sleeve plackets were analyzed by virtue of the bag opening process of sewing firstly and then cutting, the optimization design of the process of sleeve plackets was carried out, and anovel method for thesleeve plackets process was put forward.Sleeve plakcets of different widths were made, and it is considered thatit is reasonable to obtain a new sleeve cap size calculation method by the sum of the net size of thesleeve cuff and the width of the opening sleeve. The optimized process methodof sleeve plackets and the drawing method of sleeve cap improve the production efficiency and appearance of the male shirt cuff. At the same time, the new method can also be applied to other parts of the garment, conducing to improve the production efficiency duringthe production process.