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多梳拉舍尔花边的多层次设计
引用本文:张艳,贺克杰,李欣欣,蒋高明.多梳拉舍尔花边的多层次设计[J].纺织学报,2018,39(7):44-49.
作者姓名:张艳  贺克杰  李欣欣  蒋高明
作者单位:泉州师范学院纺织与服装学院;福建省百凯经编实业有限公司;江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心
摘    要:针对多梳拉舍尔花边的花型设计步骤繁杂,多层次外观设计难度较高等问题,提出了一种多梳拉舍尔花边多层次外观设计方法。根据花边外观构成要素分析了影响花边外观层次效果的因素,包括编织材料的线密度和光泽、多梳衬纬、多梳压纱和贾卡提花的编织方式、花型的配色组合和花纹的形状构成等;基于此影响因素,通过组织结构设计和原料设计研究了具象纹样、几何纹样和抽象纹样的多层次主体花纹设计;结合花型整体构图的空间位置关系、要素组合方式和花型排列方式探究了多层次花边的具体设计方法;通过实际花边设计举例,验证本文设计方法在丰富花边外观层次感方面的实用性和有效性。

关 键 词:经编    多梳拉舍尔花边    主体纹样    花型构图    多层次设计  
收稿时间:2017-06-09

Multi-layer design of multi-bar Raschel laces
Abstract:Due to complicated and challenging design techniques of multi-bar Raschel laces, a specific design method was presented for the multi-layer visual effect, which was a key element for the quality evaluation. Based on knitting material, knitting method, color combination and shape composition visual features of laces, factors on the multi-layer visual effect are primarily analyzed, including the yarn fineness, yarn illumination, structures combination, pattern colors and their layout. Based on these factors, a detailed design method of multi-layer effect was proposed which is practical for designing main patterns in the forms of physical figures, geometries and abstract shapes. Moreover, attention was also paid to the differences between multi-layer design techniques when designing patterns with different spatial layouts, structure combinations and layer arrangements.By illustrating two design examples, the proposed design method is proved to be practical and efficient on enhancing multi-layer visualization.
Keywords:warp knitting  multi-bar Raschel lace  main pattern  pattern layout  multi-layer design  
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