酸碱度对中国传统服饰色彩颜色特征值的影响

为研究传统服饰色彩染色工艺中酸碱度的作用，使用染色配方中提取出来的苏木染材，采用水煎法萃取色素，对棉织物进行前媒染工艺研究，确定了不同pH值在白矾和皂矾媒染条件下的显色规律及色彩明度、色相、饱和度的取值范围。结果表明：pH值对苏木棉织物白矾前媒染显色影响较大，且呈不同色调；pH值对苏木棉织物皂矾前媒染显色影响相对较小，主要呈暖灰色调。通过调整前媒染工艺中的pH值，复原了玫瑰紫和紫檀色，证实了pH值在古代染色配方中具有重要的作用，由此派生的其他色彩极大地丰富了中国传统服饰色谱，决定了色彩的最终相貌。

Influence ofpH value on characteristic colors of Chinese traditional costumes

In order tostudyinfluence ofpH value during dyeing process of traditional costumes, water extraction of sappanwood was used for pre-mordant dyeing ofcotton fabrics. The coloring pattern and the L*、a*、b*、c* value were obtained from the alumen and melanteritum mordant dyeing process with different pH values. The result shows thatpH value has greater influence to the alumen mordant dyeing ofcotton fabrics and gives different tones of colors. While the pH value has little influence to the melanteritum mordant dyeing ofcotton fabrics and gives mainly warm gray color. Rose purple and sandalwood purple were reconstituted by adjustingpH value, which is a great example showing the importance of pH value to the ancient dyeing process. The adjustment ofpH value during the dyeing processgreatly facilitates enrichment of thecolors of the Chinese traditional costumes and determines the final dyeing results.