纬二重渐变全遮盖结构设计研究与实践

为丰富纬二重提花织物的结构形式及色彩表现形式，对传统纬二重提花织物进行分析，并结合数码提花设计技术，提出了2种纬二重结构创新设计原理和方法，将影光组织与全遮盖结构有效结合，可实现纬二重提花织物单面影光变化、双面影光变化的织物效果。单面纬二重渐变全遮盖结构先设置全遮盖技术点，再进行相应组织库的设计；双面纬二重提花织物无需对正反面图案透叠处理，结构设计时不需要设置全遮盖技术点，可直接对基本组织进行影光变化设计，再从中筛选出符合全遮盖结构的组织进行组合。最后，通过设计实例验证了2种设计原理和方法的可行性。

Design research and practice on gradient weft-full-backed structure

In order to enrich the weave structure and color expression of weft-backed jacquard fabric, this paper presents two innovative design principles and methods of weft-backed structure which are derived from the analysis of traditional weft-backed jacquard fabric and combined with the technology of digital jacquard fabric. Combining shadow weaves and full-backed structure, these two principles and methods can design single face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression and double face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression. Full-backed points are set at first and then the corresponding basic databases are built when design single face weft-full-backed structure. It doesn’t need to overlap face pattern and back pattern when design double face weft-backed jacquard fabric. The structure design principle is that design series shadow weaves for primary weaves without full-backed points. And then filter weaves that can design full-backed structure. Finally, the design practices validated the practicable of two design principles and methods.