纬二重渐变全遮盖结构设计研究与实践 |
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引用本文: | 周赳,白琳琳. 纬二重渐变全遮盖结构设计研究与实践[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(1): 32-38. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20170401607 |
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作者姓名: | 周赳 白琳琳 |
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作者单位: | 浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室; |
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摘 要: | 为丰富纬二重提花织物的结构形式及色彩表现形式,对传统纬二重提花织物进行分析,并结合数码提花设计技术,提出了2种纬二重结构创新设计原理和方法,将影光组织与全遮盖结构有效结合,可实现纬二重提花织物单面影光变化、双面影光变化的织物效果。单面纬二重渐变全遮盖结构先设置全遮盖技术点,再进行相应组织库的设计;双面纬二重提花织物无需对正反面图案透叠处理,结构设计时不需要设置全遮盖技术点,可直接对基本组织进行影光变化设计,再从中筛选出符合全遮盖结构的组织进行组合。最后,通过设计实例验证了2种设计原理和方法的可行性。
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关 键 词: | 数码提花 提花织物 纬二重结构 全遮盖结构 影光渐变 |
收稿时间: | 2017-04-10 |
Design research and practice on gradient weft-full-backed structure |
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Abstract: | In order to enrich the weave structure and color expression of weft-backed jacquard fabric, this paper presents two innovative design principles and methods of weft-backed structure which are derived from the analysis of traditional weft-backed jacquard fabric and combined with the technology of digital jacquard fabric. Combining shadow weaves and full-backed structure, these two principles and methods can design single face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression and double face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression. Full-backed points are set at first and then the corresponding basic databases are built when design single face weft-full-backed structure. It doesn’t need to overlap face pattern and back pattern when design double face weft-backed jacquard fabric. The structure design principle is that design series shadow weaves for primary weaves without full-backed points. And then filter weaves that can design full-backed structure. Finally, the design practices validated the practicable of two design principles and methods. |
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Keywords: | digital jacquard jacquard fabric weft-backed structure full-backed structure color shading |
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