单向导湿机织物结构设计

为从机织物结构参数设计的角度开发具有良好单向导湿性能的机织物，构建了性能优异的导湿梯度结构模型，根据结构模型，设计试织了表里层不同松紧组织，表里层不同接结方式、不同原料的9 种织物，通过对9 种织物吸湿、导湿性能的测试和多项综合值计算分析发现：在其他规格相同情况下，表里层采用松、紧组织孔隙呈梯度 结构的织物导湿性能好；液态水的传递效果与接结点的分布和接结形式有关，接结点数目的增加有利于表里层之间的水传递。表里层经纱为木棉/ 棉混纺纱，纬纱为吸湿透气涤纶（Coolmax）纱线，且Coolmax 纬纱采用上下联合接结法，表紧里松的组织配置织物单向导湿性能最好，验证了单向导湿结构模型的正确性。

Woven fabric structure design withunidirectional water transport property

In order to develop fabric with excellent unidirectional water transport property based on the fabric structure parameters, the water transport gradient model of woven fabric was established. According tothe model, using different tightness of woven structure and different stitchingform of weave and different amterials, nine types of fabrics were developed and the water transport properties of these structures were compared by polynomial synthesis. The result shows that fabricwith pores gradient structure from outer side to inner side has excellent water transport property, which relates to the stitching marks and the stitching form of weave. Meanwhile, double layer fabric withexcellent watertransportproperty is built, in whichkapok/cotton blended yarn is as weft, Coolmax isas weft, weft yarn Coolmax stitichs two layers and pore gradient structure is formed by loose inner and tight outer sider. Also, the transport gradient model of woven fabric isproved to be correctness and effective.