展开变化原理在裙装褶饰结构设计中的应用

主要研究褶饰种类及褶饰展开变化原理。按照款式造型确定褶饰的种类,褶的种类大体上分为自然褶、规律裥。褶饰展开变化原理包括展开变化结构的处理形式、变化形式的选择、设计要点等内容。展开变化结构处理的形式分为平行展开、扇形展开、混合展开;根据自然褶、规律裥的形态确定展开变化结构处理形式;展开变化结构的设计要点是根据褶的走向确定展开线的方向,根据褶的位置确定展开线的位置,按类比的方法确定展开线的位置,按仿形的方法绘出展开线的形态。在褶饰裙装结构设计中,当遇到自然褶、规律裥等工艺形式,首先设计好裙片结构,以其为原型,再依据款式确定展开线位置,根据其款式具体情况剪开展开线,展开量的大小按款式设计。

Application of Expansion and Variation Rule in Structure Design of Skirt Ruche

The expansion and variation rule requires that the direction and position of expansion line should be determined by those of the ruche,and the position and shape of the expansion line can be determined by analogy and profile modeling.In the design of a skirt's structure,the skirt piece structure should be firstly designed,by which the position of expansion line can be fixed in accordance with the skirt style.Then the skirt piece can be cut apart along the expansion line to a proper length dependently with the skirt style.