名称依旧,形制全非——中国服饰史中的几个例子

研究文物要将实物与文献记载相结合,了解其产生和演变过程,并与当时的社会生活及历史相关联。本文选取几个服饰方面的例子-冠、金紫、霞帔,对其形制变迁进行了追踪,以正现今个别考古报告及学者对其形制使用所存在的误解。从《礼记·冠义》等文献来看,冠是礼仪性的发罩,而帽子在上古时代有身份的人及庶民均不佩戴,巾帻则与现代的帽子相近。西汉后期冠和帻形成了一个整体。汉、唐两代所指"金紫"则完全不同,汉朝指金印紫绶,唐代指紫袍和金鱼袋。帔在唐代质地飘逸,而宋代将帔帛稳住以"行莫摇裙",清代"霞帔"则发展为坎肩。

Changeless Names and Changeable Forms:Examples in Chinese Costume History

A research into cultural relics calls for the combination of objects with literature,comprehension of the evolution and association with the historical social life.In order to rectify mistakes in archeological reports and scholars’misunderstandings,this article takes guan,jin zi and xia pei as examples in costumes and accessories,tracing their transformation.As illustrated in such literature as the Book of Rites:Meaning of the Ceremony of Capping(Li Ji:Guan Yi),guan was served as an etiquette capping,which was neither worn by patricians nor plebeians in remote ages,while jin ze was quite similar to what modern headgear suggests.Guan and ze were combined into one in the late Western Han Dynasty.As for jin zi,it referred to gold stamps with purple ribbons in the Han Dynasty while it referred to purple robes and goldfish pouches in the Tang Dynasty.Pei was the one in flowing style in Tang,while keeping static while in motion in Song,and xia pei evolved into waistcoat in the Qing Dynasty.