倾斜底坡上波浪的传播与破碎

本文根据TUMMAC方法探讨了孤立波、微幅波和二阶Stokes波在1/30底坡上的传播与破碎,并采用示踪法测得了相同底坡上濒临破碎波的速度场。与前人的实验结果相比较表明,计算所得的波浪外形变化是一致的,依据运动学标准所得的各项破碎指标也大致相同;与岩垣及本文实验结果比较表明,速度的分布趋势也是一致的。

Propagation and Breaking of Waves on Sloping Beaches

In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave, the sinusoidal wave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMAC method, and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracing method. The numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with former experimental data, and the breaker indexes depended on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previous results. Furthermore, compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and by the authors, the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numerical method is also satisfactory.