鲁南民间云肩及其制作技艺探究

 云肩是我国民间女性服饰中重要的服饰品，是研究我国古代女性社会角色和审美文化的重要元素，有着较高的学术研究价值。本文采用田野调查的方法对山东鲁南地区手工艺人进行了云肩制作技艺的访谈和实践，通过数码技术摄录记载不同代表性款式民间云肩从准备、缝制到整理的全部工艺流程，包括打阙子、画花样、尅阙子、下步、衍边、衍套子、插花、抹里子、连片、绱领等步骤。从中归纳其制作时的技巧，剖析蕴含其中的民间技术美、灵巧美和装饰美等艺术审美层面的内涵。

Folk Yunjian in South Shandong and its workmanship

Yunjian is important Clothing Accessories in the folk of China .Which is the key element to study Chinese ancient women in their social status and aesthetic culture. That has typical symbol with a high value for study. This paper was writed using the method of the field survey ,combining the field trips with production practice and recorded a typical Yunjian of sewing process in southern of Shandong by the camera . From the stage of preparing, sewing and finishing of all the process, included the steps of making the Quezi，painting pattern, cut the Quezi, putting cloth, hemming sides, sewing the fine cloth, embroidery, sewing lining ,series, and sewing collar . From that to conclude the technological craftsmanship during making and to analyze the artistic of the technology , skills and adornment which implied in artistic level.