“服妖”与“时世妆”:古代中国服饰的伦理世界与时尚世界(下)

传统中国服饰存在着两个世界:一是伦理世界;二是时尚世界。服饰伦理世界建立的基点则是儒家传统的"礼"。在礼的规范下,传统中国的服饰无不带有等级性的特征。服饰时尚世界建立的基点则是个人乃至群体的审美趣味。由个人乃至群体的审美价值取向出发,人们按照各自的财力乃至喜好选择个性化的服饰。伦理性与时尚性既会发生冲突,但两者之间又可出现互动性的转换。基于这一转换,古代中国的服饰随之完成了从"礼"向"俗"的演变历程。

Ethics and fashion world of costume in ancient China

There are two worlds in traditional Chinese costume. One is the world of ethics; the other is the world of fashion. The foundation of the former one is Li, the ethic of traditional Confucianism under which traditional Chinese costume presents the character of ranking. The foundation of the latter one is come individual or even group＇s aesthetic from which people make a special choice according to their wealth and favorites. Conflict is unavoidable between ethics and fashion, but interactive transformation could be also occurred. Thus, the ancient Chinese costume evolves from Li （ethic） to popularity.