节裙造型与织物性能的相关性

为研究节裙造型与织物性能的相关性，选用9种常见面料，用FAST织物风格仪测试了面料的常见力学性能，并用同一样板分别制作了节裙,邀请专业人员对其造型进行评分。固定节裙位置,用数码相机对节裙从不同角度进行拍照，然后用Photoshop进行图像处理，提取了节裙不同角度的像素面积、底摆曲线投影参数、正面抽褶宽度3个方面的造型客观评价指标，最后借助相关分析及聚类分析进行数据处理。研究结果表明：与节裙造型主观评价关系密切的客观指标依次是正面偏侧45°像素面积、褶宽差、平均波峰（波谷）距离；影响节裙造型客观指标的面料性能依次是弯曲刚度、悬垂性、剪切刚度等；柔软易变形、悬垂系数小的面料制成的节裙易呈H型，且裙摆波浪较碎小、波浪数较多。

Correlation between sculpt of tiered skirts and fabric performances

In order to find out the relation between the sculpt of tiered skirts and performances of fabric, nine common fabrics were chosen. FAST instrument was used to test the mechanical properties of the fabrics and then made into tiered skirts with the same pattern. Professionals were invited to evaluate the skirts sculpt. Digital camera was used to take photos of the skirts from different angles, and the photos were processed with Photoshop to get their different pixel areas, parameters of ham cuve and gathering width. Finally, the data were processed with correlation and clustering analysis. The research findings indicated that the objective evaluation parameters closely related with subjective evaluation score are shown in the following order: pixel area of 45°between front and side position, difference of the two gathering width, average distance of wave peak and trough. The performances influencing the sculpt of tiered skirts are in the following order: bending rigidity, drapability, shearing rigidity. The tiered skirts made of soft and flexible fabrics with good drapability takes on the shape of H, which have more small waves than those made of rigid fabrics.