近代民间服饰中祈寿纹样造型及文化意蕴探析

祈寿纹样是指传达祈求长寿愿望的纹样,构成题材与造型表现多样。文章基于江南大学、北京服装学院和东华大学服饰博物馆的93件带有祈寿纹样传世服饰品,从装饰题材和形式美的角度,对祈寿纹样的造型特征进行了归纳与总结,比较出祈寿纹样在近代男装、女装、童装中的不同表现形式,并进一步结合实例探析祈寿纹样的文化意蕴。研究认为,祈寿纹样造型包括艺术化变形与具象写实两种,纹样组合自由多变,在不同着装人群服饰中造型差异明显;祈寿纹样作为一种装饰载体,是民间百姓“护子佑子”的精神寄托,婚庆佳节和谐合好、生日诞辰长寿不老的美好祝愿。

Analysis of shape feature and cultural implication of patterns aboutpraying for longevity in modern folk costumes

The patterns of praying for longevity refer to patterns for conveying the desire for longevity.They have rich subjects and shape features.This study is intended to conclude and summarize the shape feature of the patterns from the perspectives of decoration and formal beauty by case study of 93 pieces of collections in the Folk Costumes Museums of Jiangnan University,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology and Donghua University,figure out the different manifestations of the patterns in modern men’s,women’s and children’s wear,and further analyze the cultural implication of the patterns based on examples.Study shows that the shape of the patterns consists of artistic deformation and representational form.The patterns can be combined freely and significantly differ from people to people in shape.As a decorative carrier,the patterns reflect people’s desire for"protecting children",harmonious union of newlyweds,and longevity of the aged.