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嘉兴王店李家坟明墓出土圆领袍复原研究
引用本文:蒋玉秋,王淑娟,杨汝林. 嘉兴王店李家坟明墓出土圆领袍复原研究[J]. 丝绸, 2020, 57(5): 53-61
作者姓名:蒋玉秋  王淑娟  杨汝林
作者单位:北京服装学院 美术学院,北京100029;中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002
基金项目:北京社科基金重点项目(17LSA001)。
摘    要:通过对出土文物进行实物复原的方式,再现服饰原物风貌,解密技术构成,在一定程度上起到推动文物保护的重要作用。文章以一件中国丝绸博物馆馆藏嘉兴王店李家坟明墓出土女子圆领袍作为研究对象,基于一定的研究限制进行复原样本选择,并通过对出土文物信息整理、文物残片分析、服装形制推断、衣料纹样文化阐释等研究路径,展开了始自衣料织造、胸背补子复原等的复原研究,最终按相同结构与工艺完成了技术复原,再现了明代典型服饰圆领袍的实物风貌。

关 键 词:明代  圆领袍  李家坟明墓  丝绸  技术复原

Research on restoration of the round-collar robe unearthed from Ming dynasty tomb of Lijiafen,Wangdian,Jiaxing
JIANG Yuqiu,WANG Shujuan,YANG Rulin. Research on restoration of the round-collar robe unearthed from Ming dynasty tomb of Lijiafen,Wangdian,Jiaxing[J]. Silk Monthly, 2020, 57(5): 53-61
Authors:JIANG Yuqiu  WANG Shujuan  YANG Rulin
Affiliation:(School of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)
Abstract:the original style and features of costume can reappear,and the technology structure can be revealed by physical restoration of unearthed cultural relics,which to certain degree drives the preservation of cultural relics. In this paper,one of women’s round-collar robe in Ming dynasty unearthed from the tomb of Lijiafen in Wangdian,Jiaxing which is collected in China National Silk Museum,is taken as the research object for technical restoration. Based on certain research limitations,sample selection for restoration is carried out. Through sorting out the information of unearthed costume relics,analysis of costume relics fragments,inference of costume shape,and cultural interpretation of costume patterns,technical research on fabric weaving and badges restoration is carried out. Finally,technical restoration is completed according to the same structure and technology,and the real features of the typical round-collar robe in Ming dynasty reappears.
Keywords:Ming dynasty  round-collar robe  Ming tomb of Lijiafen  silk  technical restoration
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