印度古吉拉特模板印花"阿兹勒格"技艺调查

"阿兹勒格"是印度代表性的凸版印花工艺,具有鲜明的地域性和独特的印染技艺。通过对印度西部古吉拉特邦喀奇地区模版印花"阿兹勒格"印染技艺的调查,结合对纹样题材、布局、文化内涵的分析,发现"阿兹勒格"是借助防染剂和媒染剂套染而成的多色印花布,纹样受伊斯兰文化影响,以抽象几何纹和植物花卉纹为主,鲜见动物纹和人物纹样,排列方式有四方连续和二方连续两种,四方连续纹样的布局形式又有波形连缀式、几何骨架式、散点式、缠枝式。"阿兹勒格"与中国新疆地区的模板印花在工艺、纹样、布局形式、使用功能等方面都有所不同。

Study on the technique and art of "Ajrakh" block printing of Gujarat in India

Ajrakh block printing is a typical relief printing process in India,which has distinct regional characteristics and unique printing & dyeing technology. Based on the investigation of Ajrakh art of template printing in Kutch District of Gujarat in western India,and the analysis of its printing & dyeing process,pattern,layout and cultural connotation,it can be found that Ajrakh is a multicolor printed fabric which is overprinted with the aid of the resist agent and mordant. The pattern theme is influenced by Islamic culture,mainly featured by geometric patterns and plant flower patterns,while there are rare animals and figures. There are two kinds of patterns: four-square continuity pattern and double-square continuity pattern. The layout of four-square continuity has four kinds of examples: waveform continuous pattern,geometric skeleton pattern,scatter pattern and twig pattern. Ajrakh is different from the block printing in Xinjiang in terms of technology,pattern,layout form and use function.