高山汉服饰纹样的装饰艺术

高山汉作为生活在大山之间、少数民族聚居区的一支特殊的汉族群体,其服饰延续了汉族传统,装饰艺术亦独具特色,对其装饰艺术的研究可深化对汉族特殊族群服饰艺术的了解,扩充目前汉族服饰研究的范围。为此,通过实地调研以及对江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的高山汉服饰研究发现:其纹样主要集中在背带、童帽、绣花鞋、围腰、银饰等服饰品上,题材以动植物等自然界的事物为主,并辅以宗教、文字、人物等纹样;组织形式包括单独纹样、适合纹样、角隅纹样、连续纹样等;工艺手法包括传统的绣、贴、镶、嵌等。高山汉服饰纹样通过写实与夸张的有机结合,平面与立体的相辅相成,传承与吸收的内在底蕴形成了其独特的装饰风格。

Study of patterns on Gaoshan Han's costumes

Gaoshan Han is a special group of Han people who came from all over of China and now are surrounded by minority. Gaoshan Han’s costumes follow the Han’s traditional style and have unique patterns. Based on the traditional folk garments and ornaments from modern Gaoshan Han areas in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University，it can be found that patterns mainly appear on baby carriers, bonnets, embroidered shoes, aprons, silvers and so on, patterns on garments and ornaments are mainly combined with natural things, religions, birds, texts and others. It is also found that according to the organizational form, the patterns can be grouped into individual patterns, suitable patterns, corner patterns and continuous patterns. The techniques used to form patterns include embroidery, patch and inlay. The costume culture is a heritage of the Confucian culture and also absorb the essence of surrounding minorities.