服装袖型结构与人体上肢穿着适应性研究

服装袖型结构是依托人体上肢为原型而展开的物态空间体,对其进行研究有利于解决衣袖结构与上肢功能适应性问题。基于上肢形态、关节驱动等特点,将其划分为"臂根、肩部上凸面"、"臂根、胸侧下凹面"、"肘关节隐形前凹面"和"腕关节隐形前凹面"等4个结构部位点,并采用立体裁剪的方法,对4个部位点进行了分析研究。结果表明:服装袖型不仅是单一的上肢包装物,也是一个能容纳和包容多个复杂多变"曲面凹凸体"的椭圆桶状物。合理把握人身体与上肢结构功能关系,设计袖子结构中袖窿、袖山、袖肘、袖腕的"量",确保袖子内部结构能满足身体功能。

Study on the adaptability of the garment sleeve shape structure and the human upper limbs

The garment sleeve shape structure is a physical dimension system developed based on the prototype of the human upper limbs,the study on which contributes to resolving the adaptability problem of the garment sleeve structure and the upper limbs functions.Based on the upper limbs shape,the joints drive and other characteristics,they are divided into four structural parts as "the arm rhizospheres and the upper convex surfaces on shoulder portions","the arm rhizospheres and the lower concave surfaces on the chest sides","the covert front concave surfaces of the elbow joints" and "the covert front concave surfaces of the wrist joints" and studied by way of vertical scissoring.The study turns out that the garment sleeve shape is more an elliptical barrel-shaped object which is able to contain a plurality of changeable concave-convex bodies with curved surfaces than a simplex object decorating the human upper limbs.A reasonable balance between the human body and the upper limbs structure functions and the amount design of sleeve armholes,sleeve tops,sleeve elbows and sleeve wrists can make the inner structure of sleeve meet the body functions.