插肩袖订单纸样的推板分析与应用

成衣加工多以订单的方式运作,宽松且有分割的款式属常见类型.文章以插肩袖订单为例,利用服装结构的基础知识,对款式进行剖析,并对某一规格不同部位尺寸之间进行处理,从而绘制出合理的纸样.结合推板理论和各规格间档差的科学分配,尤其是不均匀档差的分析和基准点的合理使用,放缩出符合订单要求的各规格纸样.

Analysis and Application of the Grading of Order Raglan Sleeve

In ready-to-wear industry,garment order is the common making way.Clothing with loose and dividing line design is the popular style.In this paper,clothing with raglan sleeve design is regarded as research object.The correct patterns were made based on basic knowledge of clothing constructe,the character of style,different size in different components.Then,on the basis of the traditional grading theory and scientifical applying grades of different size,especially the use of uneven grades and refering points,the correct patterns suitable for garment order were obtained.