Inhibitory effects of natural plants of Jeju Island on elastase and MMP-1 expression

In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants collected from Jeju Island, which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea. We investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1 mRNA expression for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials for use in cosmetics. In the free radical scavenging capacity assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Torreya nucifera (leaf), showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC50 < 30 μg/ml). Among these extracts, Nymphaea tetragona (rhizome) extract showed the highest free radical scavenging activity (SC50 = 4.7 μg/ml). In the anti-elastase inhibition assay, seven extracts, including T. orientalis (seed) and Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), showed high inhibitory activity (>50% at 100 μg/ml). Among these extracts, P. hydropiper (whole plant) extract showed the highest elastase inhibition activity (IC50 = 46.7 μg/ml). In the MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, T. orientalis (seed), Pyrrosia hastata (root), and Capsicum annum (whole plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG, which was used as a control. Furthermore, four extracts, including P. hydropiper (whole plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root), N. tetragona (root), and Camellia japonica (leaf), completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human fibroblast cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts may hold potential for use as natural active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics.